Clutch Adjustment (Grab at the end of the lever)

[Botch]

I had a devil of a time not stalling the engine on this bike when I got mine in '07, and it really became obvious when I did my MSF (safety course) on a Kawasaki and didn't stall the engine once all weekend!

However, once I learned that all the clutch action happened as you're just barely squeezing the lever, and I started riding in a more, uh, "spirited" manner, that short lever throw became an advantage; in fact I rarely use the clutch at all anymore (at least for upshifting).

Your choice: give it more time to get used to it (may be hard with two other, close-to-the-grip bikes under your belt) or adjust as needed. Good luck! :thumbup:

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I had a devil of a time not stalling the engine on this bike when I got mine in '07, and it really became obvious when I did my MSF (safety course) on a Kawasaki and didn't stall the engine once all weekend!

However, once I learned that all the clutch action happened as you're just barely squeezing the lever, and I started riding in a more, uh, "spirited" manner, that short lever throw became an advantage; in fact I rarely use the clutch at all anymore (at least for upshifting).

Your choice: give it more time to get used to it (may be hard with two other, close-to-the-grip bikes under your belt) or adjust as needed. Good luck! :thumbup:

+1 on the above, with time you'll get used to it...

I didn't do the KN mod as I wanted the shorter clutch engagement and am used to the force needed to work the clutch, (about the same as any larger bike)..

 

[agf]

I used to love the short friction zone and for fast shifts having the lever fully out was no real prob. Just got used to it. Then I put KNs mod on to make shifts smoother when riding w a pillion, it is smoother but I still sometimes clutch less shift any way. Using two wheels levers or pazzos or Cnc levers is the only way to bring the levers closer to the bar. Now I do that to minimize the reach. Using both the KN mod and levers will prob meet your needs for under $100 Money well spent if it does what you want and sounds like it will. I don't think you will find that it can be achieved any other way.
Good luck


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[pookamatic]

KN's mod is adjustable too. So you can go back to darn near stock action with one bolt.

 

[philz]

How is that possible? Both the adjuster at the lever and the one under tank do nothing but pre-load / un-unload the cable. You can certainly set it up so that the clutch grabs relatively close to the bar, but you'll have a good inch of free play.

Wanna take a picture for us, please? Particularly how far can you pull the lever before the slave lever starts moving (that's the one on the right side of the bike at the top of the crankcase).

Thanks!

If I'm honest I'm not entirely sure, I just adjusted the cable at both ends until I got it how I like it, can't remember which way I tightened/loosened things.

All I know is that my lever has no free play, engages about 1cm from the grip and shifts perfectly. After this adjustment I also adjusted the throttle free play and now it feels like a new bike, really nice to ride.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

If I'm honest I'm not entirely sure, I just adjusted the cable at both ends until I got it how I like it, can't remember which way I tightened/loosened things.

All I know is that my lever has no free play, engages about 1cm from the grip and shifts perfectly. After this adjustment I also adjusted the throttle free play and now it feels like a new bike, really nice to ride.

Not having any free play is potentially gambling with your clutch as the freeplay ensures the clutch springs are indeed pushing all the clutch plates fully together .

If there's no free play, its possible the lever/cable is partially holding the plates apart causing premature wear on the clutch (ie-the clutch is as if its partially got pull on the cable, (as if YOU were pulling in the cable))...

IMHO, I'd loosen it just a tad and get at least a little play at the lever..

BTW, the mid cable adjuster and the handle bar adjuster do the exact same thing. The mid cable adjuster, once accessed, allows you to extend the life of the cable as the inner cable stretches with normal wear and tear...

 

[Erci]

Not having any free play is potentially gambling with your clutch as the freeplay ensures the clutch springs are indeed pushing all the clutch plates fully together .

If there's no free play, its possible the lever/cable is partially holding the plates apart causing premature wear on the clutch (ie-the clutch is as if its partially got pull on the cable, (as if YOU were pulling in the cable))...

IMHO, I'd loosen it just a tad and get at least a little play at the lever..

BTW, the mid cable adjuster and the handle bar adjuster do the exact same thing. The mid cable adjuster, once accessed, allows you to extend the life of the cable as the inner cable stretches with normal wear and tear...

+1! When cable slack is properly adjusted, you should be able to squeeze the lever and fit a nickle (2-3mm) in this gap without seeing any movement of the slave lever (that's the one on top of crankcase on the right side)

... and I still don't get how it's possible to adjust the cable on FZ6 and have zero play yet have the clutch grab close to the bar. I would think that with zero slack the clutch would be grabbing at almost full-out position :don'tknow:

 

[Sigg79]

Resurrecting an old thread here, but:

The way I understand it, the manual suggests 10-15 mm free play at the clutch handle. On my bike that means that even if the clutch handle is at its most extended position, the slave lever is not fully extended. But the clutch handle has 10-15 mm free play when you squeeze the lever, meaning that the clutch starts to disengage after 10-15 mm of clutch handle travel.

Have I misunderstood "free play" completely, or is this correct?

If I adjust the clutch cable to make the slave lever extend fully, I would have massive amounts of free play at the clutch handle.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Resurrecting an old thread here, but:

The way I understand it, the manual suggests 10-15 mm free play at the clutch handle. On my bike that means that even if the clutch handle is at its most extended position, the slave lever is not fully extended. But the clutch handle has 10-15 mm free play when you squeeze the lever, meaning that the clutch starts to disengage after 10-15 mm of clutch handle travel.

Have I misunderstood "free play" completely, or is this correct?

If I adjust the clutch cable to make the slave lever extend fully, I would have massive amounts of free play at the clutch handle.

10-15 mm free play (per the manual) is measured at the FAR END of the lever (by the ball end) moving the lever from full stop (fully forward) to where you feel the cable start to get taught when pulling the lever .

As long as you have a little bit of looseness in the cable (when released) your good. With the short engaugement zone, you do have a bit of "wiggle room" should you want a ittle more play.


BTW, the clutch cable should be serviced / lubed to keep from sticking. There is a small return spring on the engine clutch lever/shaft to help return the cable/main lever. If its gooed up, broken strands, etc, the cable will stick and the engine lever may not move the cable as much as it should. *Putting a piece of paper towel under the curvy part of the cable (just above the engine) will catch any excess lube that may drip out..

It'll also make the clutch pull a bit easier too!

 

[Sigg79]

Thanks!

I think I have it adjusted correctly. I replaced the cable a few days ago, so it's good.

The point I am trying to make is that even with a properly adjusted clutch handle, the engine clutch slave lever will not fully extended. When you remove the clutch cable, you can notice that the slave lever can be pushed just using your fingers before it gets to the point where it starts to engage. I don't think it is meant to be fully extended when the cable is installed and properly adjusted.

The slave lever becomes quite firm when it is pushed to the point where it starts to engage.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Thanks!

I think I have it adjusted correctly. I replaced the cable a few days ago, so it's good.

The point I am trying to make is that even with a properly adjusted clutch handle, the engine clutch slave lever will not fully extended. When you remove the clutch cable, you can notice that the slave lever can be pushed just using your fingers before it gets to the point where it starts to engage. I don't think it is meant to be fully extended when the cable is installed and properly adjusted.

The slave lever becomes quite firm when it is pushed to the point where it starts to engage.

Yepper, that little bit of play in the engine lever, with the cable disconnected, is just slop in the clutch release mechanism.

As you posted, once you start pulling it in and get resistance is where the mechanism starts to actually separate the clutch plates.....It doesn't need to extend any further, as long as the clutch plates are fully engauged and there's a slight amount of play in the cable, that's good..

 

[Sigg79]

Thanks, that's what I thought! I was just afraid I had adjusted it way too tight. Would suck to have to remove the airbox to access the adjustment nut again. :rockon:

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Thanks, that's what I thought! I was just afraid I had adjusted it way too tight. Would suck to have to remove the airbox to access the adjustment nut again. :rockon:

As a side note, what I did was remove the plastic frame/ clutch cable holder so I can slide the cable out without screwing with the air box.

As you know, that cable isn't going anywhere. Its been that way about 2.5 years, original cable, 15,000 miles..

I just adjust the mid adjuster as wide as possible, but still being able to spin in the upper lever adjuster to remove the top of the cable for maintainance.

 

[nthdegreeburns]

So -- I ran across this thread after my MSF instructor suggested I get the clutch adjusted.

I'm a first-time rider, and the 2007 FZ6 is my first motorcycle. I'd like to get a little more play with the clutch engagement -- the friction zone as it were.

However, based on things I've read in this thread, it's my understanding that the friction zone on the FZ6 is intentionally small? Like -- on / off -- no grey area?

I was going to have a mechanic try and adjust the clutch at the engine, but that would only double up what I can do with the lever adjustment, right? The friction zone would still be very small / on-off?

nthdegreeburns