Clutch Adjustment (Grab at the end of the lever)

[Beerdrinker]

Hello to all!
I already read all the posts about clutch but I want to make sure I wont miss anything so I appreciate your help.

My bike is a FZ6 S from 2007 and it has 62000 Kilometres.

The clutch is engaging at the end of the lever and I like it closer to the grip!

*Loosen the nut in the handlebar (nut out of the clutch lever):
the clutch will grab closer to the grip but the free-play is way too much!

*Tighten the nut in the handlebar (nut inside the clutch lever):
the clutch grab too far from the grip and the free-play is ok.

As far as I understood I have to adjust it using the nut under the tank correct?

My doubts:
* is there a way to know I tighten the nut under the tank enough without starting and gear the bike?
* Is there a way to know the limits (engaged and disengaged) of the clutch to avoid incorrect adjustments and slipper clutch or improper disengagement?

Thank you in advance for your help! :beer:

 

[stink989]

The adjustment under the tank on the cable will only adjust the free play like you were up at the lever.

 

[Beerdrinker]

Really... ho men...
how can I engage the clutch closer to the grip? is there anyway to do it?
I seem like a rookie accelerating the bike and releasing the lever and no motion... I'm used to a clutch engaging before half lever course... is there anyway to achieve this?

 

[ghostdog]

Really... ho men...
how can I engage the clutch closer to the grip? is there anyway to do it?
I seem like a rookie accelerating the bike and releasing the lever and no motion... I'm used to a clutch engaging before half lever course... is there anyway to achieve this?

I just installed some knock off clutch/brake levers that have adjustments and it works awesome in combination with the stock adjustment wheel.

CNC Adjustable Clutch Brake Levers Set

 

[Erci]

Aftermarket levers definitely help, since you can move them way close to the bar. They can't, however, change the actual engagement point.

FZ6 friction zone is very short and is set up at the "lever is almost all the way out" position. Engagement point cannot be adjusted externally.. you can only adjust cable slack (and end up with way to much free play if you want the clutch to grab in the middle of lever stroke).

This has to be adjusted at the basket, but I've never done it so I can't help, but maybe someone else can.

** I can only guess that it's the #8 - #22 interface that controls engagement point and that's where adjustment needs to be made **

Here is the diagram:

 

[philz]

Really... ho men...
how can I engage the clutch closer to the grip? is there anyway to do it?
I seem like a rookie accelerating the bike and releasing the lever and no motion... I'm used to a clutch engaging before half lever course... is there anyway to achieve this?

I'm exactly like you, I want the clutch to engage close to the grip.

I achieved it by adjusting the cable (bit under the tank), then adjusting the bit on the end of the lever (wound right in). My clutch is just how I like it now, engages about 1/3 out from the grip with no slop at the end either.

 

[Erci]

I'm exactly like you, I want the clutch to engage close to the grip.

I achieved it by adjusting the cable (bit under the tank), then adjusting the bit on the end of the lever (wound right in). My clutch is just how I like it now, engages about 1/3 out from the grip with no slop at the end either.

How is that possible? Both the adjuster at the lever and the one under tank do nothing but pre-load / un-unload the cable. You can certainly set it up so that the clutch grabs relatively close to the bar, but you'll have a good inch of free play.

Wanna take a picture for us, please? Particularly how far can you pull the lever before the slave lever starts moving (that's the one on the right side of the bike at the top of the crankcase).

Thanks!

 

[Beerdrinker]

let me take a deep breath...
I spend four hours around the bike and the clutch... it's just like before...

To reach the clutch cable I had to dismount all of this

and I saw this

I take the clutch cable out, lubricate it and assembled it again after adjust it in the cable nut.
Mount everything and... VERY LITTLE SLACK!!!

dismount everything again?
i was so pissed I pull the cable with everything mounted (pull it hard it will come...)

Is there any problem riding with a huge slack to get the clutch engaging near the grip or will I burn the clutch if I ride like that?

Thank you again, now I need a couple of beers to try to relax...

thanks for your patience

 

[Erci]

Is there any problem riding with a huge slack to get the clutch engaging near the grip or will I burn the clutch if I ride like that?

No real problem.. though I'd be a bit concerned that clutch cable end can vibrate itself out of the lever (this is highly unlikely).

As long as the clutch fully disengages when you pull it to the bar, you're fine. Put the bike on centerstand, let it warm up, put it in first gear with clutch squeezed to the bar. If rear wheel does not spin, you're fine.

 

[pookamatic]

I may have missed it, but please provide this clarification: Do want the engagement zone to be closer to the grip because you think it will make you better at shifting?

Since you said this...

I seem like a rookie accelerating the bike and releasing the lever and no motion... I'm used to a clutch engaging before half lever course... is there anyway to achieve this?

I'll assume you want to be better at shifting. The problem isn't *where* the clutch grabs, but *how harshly* it does so. A short friction zone is by factory design. Some like it, many deal with it, some dislike it so much they change it. Having the friction in the middle might help ever-so-slightly, but I doubt it. Cold truth is, it's a tough clutch to get used to and finesse.

There are ways to improve the grab without getting into hard work, however. Killernoodle, a member of this forum, modifies clutch levers to make the throw longer. I have one, and recommend it for people who are having trouble shifting smoothly.

 

[Beerdrinker]

I may have missed it, but please provide this clarification: Do want the engagement zone to be closer to the grip because you think it will make you better at shifting?

Since you said this...

I'll assume you want to be better at shifting. The problem isn't *where* the clutch grabs, but *how harshly* it does so. A short friction zone is by factory design. Some like it, many deal with it, some dislike it so much they change it. Having the friction in the middle might help ever-so-slightly, but I doubt it. Cold truth is, it's a tough clutch to get used to and finesse.

There are ways to improve the grab without getting into hard work, however. Killernoodle, a member of this forum, modifies clutch levers to make the throw longer. I have one, and recommend it for people who are having trouble shifting smoothly.

This bike is new to me, I buy it used
in the other two motorcycles that I had I'm used to the clutch closer to the grip!

in this one I still can't (I don't know the name in English) release the clutch and accelerate as should be. I am accelerating and releasing the clutch searching for the exact point... but in that time the rev are increasing!! I drive motorcycles about 10 years and now I feel like a rookie who not knows how to engage the speed... (feel? I actually am right now because, after all I cant engage properly!!)

 

[Erci]

This bike is new to me, I buy it used
in the other two motorcycles that I had I'm used to the clutch closer to the grip!

in this one I still can't (I don't know the name in English) release the clutch and accelerate as should be. I am accelerating and releasing the clutch searching for the exact point... but in that time the rev are increasing!! I drive motorcycles about 10 years and now I feel like a rookie who not knows how to engage the speed... (feel? I actually am right now because, after all I cant engage properly!!)

Don't sweat it, man. Honestly best thing you can do is go out to a parking lot (or even your driveway) and just practice quickly finding the friction zone. Basically it's the 1st MSF BRC exercise. Squeeze the clutch to the bar, shift to first, ease out the clutch to the point where it starts to grab and squeeze it back all the way to the bar. Roll back and repeat until it's 2nd nature

In my opinion, the super short friction zone of FZ6 is actually excellent for very fast shifting, but the part where I didn't like it was doing slow maneuvers (u-turns, tight s-turns).. luckily it's geared low enough that there's no need to be in friction zone for that.. can just be on the gas and slightly drag rear brake :thumbup:

 

[Beerdrinker]

Don't sweat it, man. Honestly best thing you can do is go out to a parking lot (or even your driveway) and just practice quickly finding the friction zone. Basically it's the 1st MSF BRC exercise. Squeeze the clutch to the bar, shift to first, ease out the clutch to the point where it starts to grab and squeeze it back all the way to the bar. Roll back and repeat until it's 2nd nature

In my opinion, the super short friction zone of FZ6 is actually excellent for very fast shifting, but the part where I didn't like it was doing slow maneuvers (u-turns, tight s-turns).. luckily it's geared low enough that there's no need to be in friction zone for that.. can just be on the gas and slightly drag rear brake :thumbup:

so, don't change the bike, adapt to it, is that it?
Do you think I can pull the clutch with two fingers without compromise the clutch? I already try this and it feels better than squeeze all the way to the grip!

thanks again to all of you for your help!

 

[Beerdrinker]

The adjustment under the tank on the cable will only adjust the free play like you were up at the lever.

100% correct. thank you for your help

 

[Erci]

so, don't change the bike, adapt to it, is that it?
Do you think I can pull the clutch with two fingers without compromise the clutch? I already try this and it feels better than squeeze all the way to the grip!

thanks again to all of you for your help!

Absolutely. That's how I used to ride FZ6 all the time. Since the friction zone is so short, just a short squeeze fully disengages the clutch. I always used to use 2 fingers on that bike.

Having said that, I would still like to find out if there's a way to actually properly shift the engagement point at the basket.

 

[Beerdrinker]

I may have missed it, but please provide this clarification: Do want the engagement zone to be closer to the grip because you think it will make you better at shifting?

Since you said this...

I'll assume you want to be better at shifting. The problem isn't *where* the clutch grabs, but *how harshly* it does so. A short friction zone is by factory design. Some like it, many deal with it, some dislike it so much they change it. Having the friction in the middle might help ever-so-slightly, but I doubt it. Cold truth is, it's a tough clutch to get used to and finesse.

There are ways to improve the grab without getting into hard work, however. Killernoodle, a member of this forum, modifies clutch levers to make the throw longer. I have one, and recommend it for people who are having trouble shifting smoothly.

shifting smoothly, that's the expression I missed! thank you!

 

[Beerdrinker]

Absolutely. That's how I used to ride FZ6 all the time. Since the friction zone is so short, just a short squeeze fully disengages the clutch. I always used to use 2 fingers on that bike.

Having said that, I would still like to find out if there's a way to actually properly shift the engagement point at the basket.

thank you, you make me feel much much better, I was almost loosing my hope and thinking the clutch was spoiled (is that the expression?) or the clutch cable... I don't know...

If it was possible the clutch grabs closer to the grip, it was really cool but, anyway, I can try the Killernoodle modified clutch levers.

P.S. it is my second used bike and with the first one I don't had much luck... but had many, many headache.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

+1 on ERIC's posts.

I've found on different make bikes, the engagement zone is different in that IE Suzuki's tend to be close to the grip, Yamaha's out a bit, etc.

Having had a Suzuki and Yamaha at the same time was sometimes interesting as you'd get used to one bike, get on another and the clutch is completly different.

With time under your belt, you'll get used to the clutch engaugment zone.

And yes, it is short, shorter than most, but it does make for quick, two fingered shifts if any fingers at all, once moving..

With practice, you can make the engine/transmission sound like an automatic on upshifts. Just lower the throttle for split second, pull up on the shifting matching the rev's to the road conditions...

BTW, about two years ago, I removed the clutch cable retainer inaside the frame on the left side. MUCH EASIER for maintainance/replacement, etc. There's really no place for the cable to go, no issues with that retainer removed..

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Absolutely. That's how I used to ride FZ6 all the time. Since the friction zone is so short, just a short squeeze fully disengages the clutch. I always used to use 2 fingers on that bike.

Having said that, I would still like to find out if there's a way to actually properly shift the engagement point at the basket.

Possibly, rotating the lower "PULL" arm on the shaft, (#22) may move the engagement zone closer to the lever. Wouldn't take long to try as everything is out side the gear case.

I'm used to the Yamaha's and am quite comfy with where its at so I never messed with it..

There are two marks to line up from the factory but I believe KN's mod (re-welded arm) gets the marks out of sync (I may be wrong here)...

 

[Beerdrinker]

first of all I would like to thanks to all of you for your help.
I took my bike to the dealer, periodic maintenance and talk about that issue.

The answer was prompt:
that's the way the clutch works and there's no tune we can make (with no extra/ other's accessories) to solve it.

I ask them about disengage the clutch with two fingers only:
They not recommend to do that because it may lead to a premature wear of the clutch.

so, the solution to engage the clutch near the grip must be another lever with regulation or the Killernoodle modification there's no adjust we can do in the clutch cable or other parts of the original bike to achieve it.n.
:beer: