Changing the cylinder head on my 2006 FZ6

[Abimelec]

So I need to replace my cylinder head on my 2006 FZ6. It's no good anymore. I found one on eBay but it's for a 2005 FZ6 and mine is a 2006 model. Will this cylinder head fit my bike?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Look up the parts # for each year bike and check the parts numbers to see if they match:

PowersportsPlus.com - OEM Powersports Parts from Honda, Kawasaki and Yamaha at discounts up to 80% off MSRP

Their likely the same head but I'd check to make sure...

UPDATE:
The first three part #'s for each year head is different from each other, so I don't know...

Make sure you get the cam journal caps with THAT PARTICULAR HEAD if you get it, their machined to each individual head...

 

[ChevyFazer]

It should work without any problems, but if I were in your shoes right now I'd be looking for a 03 R6 head or a newer R6s head and the R6 head gasket

 

[cult67]

Aren’t 05 motors silver?

 

[yamihoe]

Aren’t 05 motors silver?

details, details.....paint it and put it back together and ride it!

 

[Black_Cirrus]

Ok am I the only person wondering what happened to need the cylinder head replaced. And I have no personal knowledge but I thought somewhere on here they decided the intake ports were to different on the r6 head to work with our intake system which up must use due to the frame design. But a few people have used R6 cams in FZ6 heads

 

[FinalImpact]

Ok am I the only person wondering what happened to need the cylinder head replaced. . . . .

No!

Not sure but I DON'T think the early R6's have the reads on the exhaust the I also beleive the headers are ported larger. IMO I'd stick with the Fizzer head!
Why do you need a new head? Just curious. . . .
And if it needs a new head, are you sure the block and pistons are OK? Threads can be repaired if its just a plug hole thats been stripped or something like that.

 

[Abimelec]

Ok am I the only person wondering what happened to need the cylinder head replaced. And I have no personal knowledge but I thought somewhere on here they decided the intake ports were to different on the r6 head to work with our intake system which up must use due to the frame design. But a few people have used R6 cams in FZ6 heads

So it needs to be replaced because one of the valves went loose and hit the piston and part of the cylinder head. I really want to know why that happened.. The mechanic says it cause the oil pump stopped working and the other says it's because the cylinder head is not working properly. It doesnt matter what it is because the cylinder was scratched when the valve hit it so it needs to be replaced. This is the second time it happens and its the same valve that goes loose and hits the piston. luckily last time it didnt hit the cylinder head. NO i dont race it or stunt the bike, i just use it to go from my house to college. I really like to take care of my vehicles but i just dont know why it happened again and why the same valve. a friend told me it was due to the timing not done right but idk. I want the bike back already!! so i need to find a cylinder head ASAP!!

 

[Motogiro]

Before jumping on the R6 heads remember that the FZ6 frame is used integrally with the motor as part of the frame structure. Does the FZ6 head have threads related to the frame???

Ronayers.com Microfiche Yamaha>Motorcycle>2006>FZS6V FZ6>FRAME

Ronayers.com Microfiche Yamaha>Motorcycle>2006>FZS6V FZ6>CYLINDER

 

[FinalImpact]

So it needs to be replaced because one of the valves went loose and hit the piston and part of the cylinder head. I really want to know why that happened.. The mechanic says it cause the oil pump stopped working and the other says it's because the cylinder head is not working properly. It doesnt matter what it is because the cylinder was scratched when the valve hit it so it needs to be replaced. This is the second time it happens and its the same valve that goes loose and hits the piston. luckily last time it didnt hit the cylinder head. NO i dont race it or stunt the bike, i just use it to go from my house to college. I really like to take care of my vehicles but i just dont know why it happened again and why the same valve. a friend told me it was due to the timing not done right but idk. I want the bike back already!! so i need to find a cylinder head ASAP!!

Engines drop valves for these common reasons:
1) Excess rpm = valve(s) float and the keepers retaining the spring come off and the valve drops into the cylinder causing mayhem. At these rpms, typically the engine is toast with a hole in the piston.
2) Valves springs break = this results in the keeper coming off and everything in #1 follows. . .
3) Keepers come off for no apparent reason. See #1 and #2. BUT usually there is a reason. Angles are wrong and the keepers are not locked to the valve as intended, the valve, keeper, or spring retainer are worn but foolishly RE-USED!
4) Something gets dropped into the intake (nuts, bolts, squirrels). The valve is held open, the cam lob nails the open valve and the keeper flies off. The Valve drops and bomb explodes!
5) Valve guide to valve stem clearance is too tight and the valve binds as the engine warms. See #4 - its the same as the valve sticking open.
6) One valve spring is weaker than the others. . . it doesn't close in time (its called "valve float") = #1, #4, #5, and let not forget the "explodes" part.
7) Defective components; occasionally parts beyond the spring are bad like the valve itself! Sometimes they loose their head! Is the vale in one peice and BENT or is the head, valve, piston and cylinder all torn up? Pictures would be very helpful! Even at at 3000RPM, those parts have NO WHERE TO GO and SH|T is going to hit the FAN in a BIG hurry!

Other engine designs have rocker arms and once in a while the guide assembly allows the rocker to wobble and it reaches down pops the keepers off.


I find it VERY unlikely that running out of oil / a BAD oil pump would lead to valve failure! BS!!!! Bearings spin and the bottom end fries before the valves drop. Cylinder head not working properly IS LAME also!! If the HEAD was repaired before, a mis matched spring, a worn keeper, a bad valve guide, improper assembly/placement of parts, or sticky valve would cause a repeat. I find it hard to believe the piston and cylinder are OK if it dropped a valve, but you hint at it being scratched. . .
You mind sharing the ENTIRE history of this bike/engine in full detail???

EDIT: HINDSIGHT SAYS THE PEOPLE YOU ARE DEALING WITH ARE NOT HONEST "OR" NOT QUALIFIED TO PERFORM PROPER REPAIRS. THE 3RD TIME WILL BE A HARD PILL TO SWALLOW!

Seriously: read up on the parts involved, how they interact and don't let them make up crap! MAKE THEM ACCOUNTABLE!!! In these pictures below you see a simple thing like mixing the spring retainers can be catastrophic #8 vs #9! They have different part numbers but look identical from intake to exhaust. Then again so do the springs, spring seats and other parts. Educate yourself!!!

From an online parts source: boats.net

From the Yamaha Shop Manual

 

[Abimelec]

So I bought this bike used from someone around November 2011. The bike had approximately 8,500 miles on it. The owner said he had it parked for a little over a year. he said he would give its maintenance and he was a friend of my father.(or at least we thought he was). Well he took for a ride and everything worked fine. I took it home and started riding it that afternoon. That same afternoon it gave me problems starting it up. At the time I didnt know why it was so but later I found it was the battery. A week later, a ticking/rattleling sound came up from the engine. We didn't know what it was so we did an oil change but it wouldnt go away. later the muffler began to backfire. We(my father and I) changed the spark plugs cause we thought it was that since it was backfiring. Well as soon as we did the spark plug change we turned it on and 30 sec after turning it on we heard something go loose from the inside. I tried to turn it on again but it wouldnt do anything. The engine got locked. Once i took it to the shop, they opened it up and it turns out one of the valves came loose and hit the piston leaving a scratch on it. they checked the cylinder and everything else was fine. Well they fixed it and replaced all the damaged parts with new ones. The mechanic told me he wanted to go deeper into the engine to see if anything else was wrong with it. once he checked it he said that it looked like if the engine had been overheated before. He said that the person who sold it to use lied to use because the bike showed no signs of proper maintenance. The tank is all rusted, they had it clean the injectors and this was part of the cause that the motorcycle struggles to turn on at times. Well i finally got it back and it ran good for 2 months. Until 2 weeks ago, i was going on the express way and i heard a rattleling sound. I thought i had gotten a flat but no, i had full control of the bike. I tried to accelerate but the bike wouldnt accelerate. I engaged the clutch and got off the express way with the speed I had. Once I stopped on the side of the rode, the motorcycle turned off cause i let go of the clutch. I turned it on again and i started to hear the same rattleling sound from the engine. it was the same sound it made the last time it broke down. I quickly turned it off. I took it to the shop again and yes, the valve had gone loose again and hit the piston, also scratching it and this time it hit the cylinder head(also scratching it). Once again, the mechanic said its the cylinder head, it wasn't any good and they had now way of knowing that the last time they fixed it so the only way you'll know is of course when it breaks down. And he also said things like that also happen when the bike is not taken well care of. I've talked to people who know the previous owner more than i do and they say that he never took well care of the bike. others say that the bike would always turn off on him and he would struggle alot with the bike. it makes me think that is the reason he decided to stop using it. He did help me pay off part of the service for fixing it last time and this time he says he cant anymore. I don't want any troubles with him so id rather just keep him out of this. he lost my trust and he is a huge liar for saying he kept it well cared. Well that is all the background i can give you on the bike.

I will attach pictures to show you what part of the cylinder head was scratched, they are not the actual pictures they are just for explaining purposes.

 

[Gelvatron]

Full rebuild pay for it start from scratch knowing its good for as long as you maintain it especially if you plan on keeping it if you don't new bike is an easier route and parting this one out

 

[FinalImpact]

OP - Sorry about your bad run of luck. Few here (and there are many of us) have gone down anything remotely close to this on ours so this is RARE IMO. I'm too tired for a proper response but over heating it could have lead to all of this from something so simple as $5 radiator cap to just simply not knowing what to check and when. They could all fall under the "neglect" bucket.

All that has been mentioned about the shop you have this bike at makes me gun shy as those are not the "typical" responses one might hear for the condition of things you presented them.

I'm glad the previous owner helped you out but some choices have to be made and they will be tough ones. How much are you willing to spend to make it right because right now it needs some serious $$help$$.

I'll be back. . .

 

[ChevyFazer]

Did they replace the head the first time or just "fix" it? It sounds like they just "fixed" it and they didn't do the job right and that's what caused the same valve to go the 2nd time. I'd be taking it to another shop. As far as the R6 head goes, I've been told by my buddy who went to mmi that "should" work fine. A while back I was talking to him about it at the shop he works at and they just happened to have a R6 they were rebuilding, when they ordered the head gasket they sent them the wrong one, a FZ6 head gasket, the only way they knew it was wrong was the part number wasn't what they ordered, but it lined up perfectly with the head and block. When they got the right one, they compared the two, the only difference was that the R6 was a thinner gasket. As far as the exhaust goes, the ports might be different, I know the fz6r guys are putting R6s headers on their bikes so I imagine we could to, might take a good bit of work to get to hook up to the stock exhaust midpipe though.

I'm sure it would be more work then just a "bolt" on job and would take some good tuning to get it to run right, and in the OP's situation, since this is the 2nd time around I take that back saying if I were in his shoes that's what I'd do, because at this point I'm sure he just wants to ride. But if I ever had the time and money to attempt this, I bet it would be one hell of a bike!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

As for why it happened again, I have to agree with Chevy and Final re the valve itself.

If that valve was too tight in the guide itself, heated up, it could stop moving, STICK OPEN, smack a piston, it would take tension off the valve spring itself and thus alow the keeper to fall out and drop a valve all the way.. A very likely scenerio...

If the cylinder is torn up, are they able to fix it?

The one shop I went to (since closed) did a valve job to my OLD 1989 KLR 250. To remove the keepers, they didn't put a valve spring compressor tool on the head, a light Tap, at the top of the valve spring retainer cap popped the two small keepers off that friggin quick... It does NOT TAKE much to have the retainers come off if something is amiss.. BTW, These guys are/were extremly knowledgable, I had known them for years and anything I couldn't fix/figure out, they did...

BTW, You have my best wishes, it sucks when someone lies, sells you a lemon, etc for a buck.. Heck, be honest, tell the FULL story when sellling a bike, they'll lloose some bucks but ya still have to sleep at night..

Please post how things work out for you....And good luck...

 

[FinalImpact]

OR - another rusty tank makes it plug up, run lean, over heats, valve sticks in guide and boom! But there could be many reasons. Off hand, the guy likely used parts that "**should have been replaced**" and it bit you. :thumbdown:

The cylinder is plated and MOST shops will not be able to correct any problems short of honing it to clean it up which gets it a new set of rings. . .

I'd be taking it somewhere else if they don't/won't stand behind their work.

pictures of bad mojo when valves drop and other failures. . .
motorcycle engine blown up, hole in piston, R1, valve drop - Google Search

 

[Motogiro]

Before jumping on the R6 heads remember that the FZ6 frame is used integrally with the motor as part of the frame structure. Does the FZ6 head have threads related to the frame???

Ronayers.com Microfiche Yamaha>Motorcycle>2006>FZS6V FZ6>FRAME

Ronayers.com Microfiche Yamaha>Motorcycle>2006>FZS6V FZ6>CYLINDER

"I see! said the blind man" The mounts are much lower...

 

[FinalImpact]

See post #10
http://www.600riders.com/forum/gara...ing-cylinder-head-my-2006-fz6.html#post497329

 

[yamihoe]

+1 I say just start with a new engine!
I wonder if the guides are worn out or improperly clearanced?


I pulled this piston out of a Mustang Cobra that dropped a valve at ~5600rpms....found the valve in the oil pan.

 

[FinalImpact]

+1 I say just start with a new engine!
I wonder if the guides are worn out or improperly clearanced?


I pulled this piston out of a Mustang Cobra that dropped a valve at ~5600rpms....found the valve in the oil pan.

Pour Pony. . .
Feel free to share more of what happened after that. . . hopefully there was not fire ball involved. . .