Chain/Sprocket Change

[mxgolf]

I just did mine. Only 12,000 miles and my sprockets and chain were shot! Not sure why because I lube my chain religously. Must be because I have the fast blue FZ6! Got the gold chain and sprockets and works sweet. I can't believe twice you got 37,000 miles out of them. WOW. One way to tell if you need a new chain or sprockets is to listen to your bike while pushing it when not running. Listen and you can hear the chain bind and make noise which is not good. That means it's time to replace. You can see the wear on the sprockets as well. :rockon:

 

[Motogiro]

I just did mine. Only 12,000 miles and my sprockets and chain were shot! Not sure why because I lube my chain religously. Must be because I have the fast blue FZ6! Got the gold chain and sprockets and works sweet. I can't believe twice you got 37,000 miles out of them. WOW. One way to tell if you need a new chain or sprockets is to listen to your bike while pushing it when not running. Listen and you can hear the chain bind and make noise which is not good. That means it's time to replace. You can see the wear on the sprockets as well. :rockon:

I just did a chain for happyker (on a cross country trip) and we couldn't find new sprockets in stock anywhere closer than a week out. Her chain was so bad I couldn't let her continue on her coast to coast trip without at least a new chain. The drive line noise is pretty noticeable because the sprockets are well out of spec. She had over 35,000 on the factory chain!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I I finally received my chain and its a continuous chain. I don't have the patience to return it and order a new one.

To install this I'll need to remove the swing arm. The service manual talks about removing the Exhaust pipe and shock. I'm thinking that I probably don't need to remove the exhaust since I'm just slipping the chain through there.

Has anyone got any experience/advice?

Thank you

The exhaust pipe runs thru swing arm so it WON'T ALLOW you to remove it without removing that pipe, you can't pull the swingarm back enough to insert the chain as the mid pipe will hit the front part (actual bolt thru) of the swing arm..

I've heard some guys loosen the header bolts at the head itself, let the header droop, and then pull the mid pipe.

Be forwarned, those head to header studs see a lot of heat cycles, IE its very possible to break a stud off then you have another headache.

 

[shuckle]

The exhaust pipe runs thru swing arm so it WON'T ALLOW you to remove it without removing that pipe, you can't pull the swingarm back enough to insert the chain as the mid pipe will hit the front part (actual bolt thru) of the swing arm..

I've heard some guys loosen the header bolts at the head itself, let the header droop, and then pull the mid pipe.

Be forwarned, those head to header studs see a lot of heat cycles, IE its very possible to break a stud off then you have another headache.

Thanks for the info. Looks like I'm going to need to be very careful.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

OR, you can remove the muffler from under the seat, then the mid-pipe and your good to go(leave the header itself alone)..

IMHO, I think I'd go that route, might take a little longer but much less risk than snapping a bolt off in the head... I'd also grease the swing arm bearing while that deep while there as well..

A chain rivet tool and a new rivet master link, would be the easiest but will cost you some $ unless you can borrow one...

This is the first chain tool I've owned, but then I love wrenching and tools and I'm not paying someone to molest my bike... I consider it an investment, I'll use it again.


Good luck..

 

[CHEMIKER]

I just did mine. Only 12,000 miles and my sprockets and chain were shot! Not sure why because I lube my chain religously. Must be because I have the fast blue FZ6! Got the gold chain and sprockets and works sweet. I can't believe twice you got 37,000 miles out of them. WOW. One way to tell if you need a new chain or sprockets is to listen to your bike while pushing it when not running. Listen and you can hear the chain bind and make noise which is not good. That means it's time to replace. You can see the wear on the sprockets as well. :rockon:

Only once, but yeah it was 37k miles old. I saw no wear at all on the sprockets either, not compared to the pictures I've seen of worn ones. The teeth were not broken or worn down, and were symmetric and evenly spaced. Also, as far as I could tell my chain was not stretched when I measured per the manual. It was only the chain binding and the mileage that led me to change it out.

I wish I knew what led to my results. Maybe riding like a pussy? LOL

 

[Nelly]

Thanks for the info. Looks like I'm going to need to be very careful.

I don't mean to contradict Scot, who by the way is far more mechanically inclined than I. But I believe that there might be enough room to slip the chain over the swing arm [rear wheel removed].
Undo top shock bolt under seat.
Remove swing arm pivot bolt.
Swingarm drops down 1" or so.
It can then be raised in a vertical plain and twisted giving about 2" of space at the pivot end.
This might enable you to slip the chain over the swing arm without removing the exhaust.
Please double check with Norbert who did a great pivot service post.
http://www.600riders.com/forum/garage-mechanical-help/28166-swingarm-pivot-bolt-service.html
Space wise it will be tight, plus once the swing arm is twisted it is a game of knuckle shredding patience as you try to realign the swing arm and keep the spacers in DOH!
Realigning the swing arm was a nightmare until I realized I had to raise it back through the vertical plain to get it aligned.
All the best with it and let us know what you do.
Neil

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I don't mean to contradict Scot, who by the way is far more mechanically inclined than I. But I believe that there might be enough room to slip the chain over the swing arm [rear wheel removed].
Undo top shock bolt under seat.
Remove swing arm pivot bolt.
Swingarm drops down 1" or so.
It can then be raised in a vertical plain and twisted giving about 2" of space at the pivot end.
This might enable you to slip the chain over the swing arm without removing the exhaust.
Please double check with Norbert who did a great pivot service post.
http://www.600riders.com/forum/garage-mechanical-help/28166-swingarm-pivot-bolt-service.html
Space wise it will be tight, plus once the swing arm is twisted it is a game of knuckle shredding patience as you try to realign the swing arm and keep the spacers in DOH!
Realigning the swing arm was a nightmare until I realized I had to raise it back through the vertical plain to get it aligned.
All the best with it and let us know what you do.
Neil

That may very well be a great shortcut. I've never had to personally replace a chain in this manner on the FZ. I know that's how Yamaha likes it done (extra shop time!!, $$) but we both know there's short cuts to almost everything and that's really good to know.. Sounds like it would work..:thumbup:

I'd give that method a try, if you can't sneak the chain in, go to plan "B", pull the muffler and mid pipe...

Great tip, Thanks!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Only once, but yeah it was 37k miles old. I saw no wear at all on the sprockets either, not compared to the pictures I've seen of worn ones. The teeth were not broken or worn down, and were symmetric and evenly spaced. Also, as far as I could tell my chain was not stretched when I measured per the manual. It was only the chain binding and the mileage that led me to change it out.

I wish I knew what led to my results. Maybe riding like a pussy? LOL

Heck you got excellent mileage out of that chain!!!

BTW, did you notice any O-rings inbetween the side plates popping out/missing? I know on mine, the O-rings were starting to tear and come out. That would explain the red rust on yours, lube came out from the rollers, metal to metal contact (sloppy side play-unlike an NON O-ring chain)..

As noted earlier, the original owner (of my FZ) lubed the chain ONCE in 4,500 miles.. Once I got it, it was cleaned and serviced but the damage was already done.. It got replaced with under 12,000 miles on the clock.. It should last considerably longer as it see's regular lubing and cleaning nowadays..

 

[Nelly]

I have just brought a DID X-link chain with 16t front and 45t rear. Plus a DID chain breaker / link connector. For the princely sum of €148.82, £116.50, $182.81 shipped. It is actually €50 less than the price I was quoted by the shop.
Happy days. My chain has completed 20,000 miles. I don't know how it was maintained prior to my ownership but the adjustment was 1/3rd down the adjustment limit. It is now only one mark from the end.
I have cleaned it twice with soaked Kerosene and a tooth brush. Other than that I have used soap and water & WD40 to get rid of grime and lube it every week.
The chain has three tight links and is way out of spec in terms of vertical and lateral sag. My sprockets like Travis still look in good shape. Teeth slightly worn but no hooking.
Get ready guys for when I post the "How they hell do you put a master link on"? thread.

Neil:thumbup:

 

[CHEMIKER]

Heck you got excellent mileage out of that chain!!!

BTW, did you notice any O-rings inbetween the side plates popping out/missing? I know on mine, the O-rings were starting to tear and come out. That would explain the red rust on yours, lube came out from the rollers, metal to metal contact (sloppy side play-unlike an NON O-ring chain)..

As noted earlier, the original owner (of my FZ) lubed the chain ONCE in 4,500 miles.. Once I got it, it was cleaned and serviced but the damage was already done.. It got replaced with under 12,000 miles on the clock.. It should last considerably longer as it see's regular lubing and cleaning nowadays..

Thanks! I thought it was about average, but now it sounds like I got my money's worth out of it! I didn't notice any o-rings coming out, or any side-side slop. Aside from the visible rust powder, which was from the pins/rollers, there was no external sign of wear.

Okay, I don't want to bash a product on speculation, but I recently started to use a Grunge Brush to clean the chain. It's curious that I saw such rapid deterioration, which is obviously due to compromised o-rings, right after I started using the brush. Prior to that, I was using a WD-40 soaked rag to clean the chain. Going back to WD-40 soaked rag.

 

[Motogiro]

Thanks! I thought it was about average, but now it sounds like I got my money's worth out of it! I didn't notice any o-rings coming out, or any side-side slop. Aside from the visible rust powder, which was from the pins/rollers, there was no external sign of wear.

Okay, I don't want to bash a product on speculation, but I recently started to use a Grunge Brush to clean the chain. It's curious that I saw such rapid deterioration, which is obviously due to compromised o-rings, right after I started using the brush. Prior to that, I was using a WD-40 soaked rag to clean the chain. Going back to WD-40 soaked rag.

Travis,
Were you using a chemical product along with the grunge brush or just the brush. I've used the bush once with the Motorex chain cleaner. I'll do the same thing with some WD-40 on a rag for light clean and lube but then I'll do a more intense cleaning and lube every so many months. Usually with a toothbrush/small utility brush...

 

[CHEMIKER]

Travis,
Were you using a chemical product along with the grunge brush or just the brush. I've used the bush once with the Motorex chain cleaner. I'll do the same thing with some WD-40 on a rag for light clean and lube but the I'll due a more intense cleaning and lube every so many months. Usually with a toothbrush/small utility brush...

Grunge Brush and WD-40, so the same chemical. The bristles are very stiff on the grunge brush but they're also very wide; I don't even know if the bristles can fit through the space to reach the o-rings, so this might not be a problem at all. Just funny how my chain went from fine to really bad so quickly.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Travis,
Were you using a chemical product along with the grunge brush or just the brush. I've used the bush once with the Motorex chain cleaner. I'll do the same thing with some WD-40 on a rag for light clean and lube but the I'll due a more intense cleaning and lube every so many months. Usually with a toothbrush/small utility brush...

I do the exact same maintainance as you do Cliff. After breaking my plastic "Grunge" brush, they replaced it with an ALUNMINUM brush under warranty.. Same exact style, just not plastic. "Maxima" O-ring, chain specific cleaner, rinse off with water.

I truly don't think the brush had anything to do with it Chemiker, you easily got TWICE THE MILEAGE out of that chain as should be expected..

Your could have used brand new baby diapers to clean it, it just wore out from old age, use, etc, IMHO...

 

[PhotoAl]

In response to the question about removing the swing arm or not: I would remove the swing arm and clean and lube the bearing while at it. Need to be done every now and then. When I replaced my swingarm I loosened the header as far as I could unscrew the bolts which gave me enough movement to take it loose under the bike. Not too bad if you are patient and have enough time - I try and never get in a hurry when working on my bike. It's me at risk if it is not done right.

Flaring the chain rivets: Flaired too much and they can crack and come off, flair too little and they won't hold either. Found a spec for them on the DID site and used it as a guide. The side plate is pressed on but still would be careful. Used a micrometer to check mine. OK you can go ahead and call me a.... but don't want the chain coming apart.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

In response to the question about removing the swing arm or not: I would remove the swing arm and clean and lube the bearing while at it. Need to be done every now and then. When I replaced my swingarm I loosened the header as far as I could unscrew the bolts which gave me enough movement to take it loose under the bike. Not too bad if you are patient and have enough time - I try and never get in a hurry when working on my bike. It's me at risk if it is not done right.

Flaring the chain rivets: Flaired too much and they can crack and come off, flair too little and they won't hold either. Found a spec for them on the DID site and used it as a guide. The side plate is pressed on but still would be careful. Used a micrometer to check mine. OK you can go ahead and call me a.... but don't want the chain coming apart.

+1 on the spec's reference to pressing the rivet. As I had never done one before, I snuck up on the clearance by tightening just a little, probably over 6 times so I wouldn't over tighten it (checking with a micrometer).

Turns out, that DID tool I posted earlier (KM 501E) , at least with a DID rivet, WILL NOT GO BEYOND spec's. I ended up going as tight as it would go and it was within spec's. Couldn't overtighten it with that particular tool if you wanted too..

 

[aid-90]

I have just brought a DID X-link chain with 16t front and 45t rear. Plus a DID chain breaker / link connector. For the princely sum of €148.82, £116.50, $182.81 shipped. It is actually €50 less than the price I was quoted by the shop.
Happy days. My chain has completed 20,000 miles. I don't know how it was maintained prior to my ownership but the adjustment was 1/3rd down the adjustment limit. It is now only one mark from the end.
I have cleaned it twice with soaked Kerosene and a tooth brush. Other than that I have used soap and water & WD40 to get rid of grime and lube it every week.
The chain has three tight links and is way out of spec in terms of vertical and lateral sag. My sprockets like Travis still look in good shape. Teeth slightly worn but no hooking.
Get ready guys for when I post the "How they hell do you put a master link on"? thread.

Neil:thumbup:

Hey Nelly how are ya? might i ask where did you purchase your chain, sprockets and chain breaker tool?
I am in need of a new set myself as there are several seized links

 

[Nelly]

Hey Nelly how are ya? might i ask where did you purchase your chain, sprockets and chain breaker tool?
I am in need of a new set myself as there are several seized links

I got it from these guys off flee-bay, €50 cheaper than I was quoted from a shop here in Offaly.They also do a specific DID chain splitter/link fitter and will combine posting of the two items. I ordered both parts separately and ended up paying 2 x post rates. The guy refunded me the overpayment within an hour of ordering.
Good luck mate,
Neil
http://stores.ebay.ie/bikespeedUK/F...45416017&_sid=190780977&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322

 

[Nelly]

Hey Nelly how are ya? might i ask where did you purchase your chain, sprockets and chain breaker tool?
I am in need of a new set myself as there are several seized links

I got it from these guys off flee-bay, €50 cheaper than I was quoted from a shop here in Offaly.They also do a specific DID chain splitter/link fitter and will combine posting of the two items. I ordered both parts separately and ended up paying 2 x post rates. The guy refunded me the overpayment within an hour of ordering.
Good luck mate,
Neil
http://stores.ebay.ie/bikespeedUK/F...45416017&_sid=190780977&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322

 

[shuckle]

Thought I'd follow up on replacing my chain. I bought a continuous chain, so had to remove the swingarm to install it. I was able to get the swingarm off without removing the exhaust and easily removed the old chain. However; I figured since I was that far in, I may as well remove the swingarm completely and grease it up. So I removed the midpipe and tailpipe without touching the headers and that worked perfectly.

Thanks everyone for their suggestions and tips.