Chain and Bearing Noise

[PhotoAl]

Today after riding 150 miles noticed the chain making a clacking noise as I acclerated from a stop up to 25 or 30 MPH. After that it quit. When I returned home - another 150 miles, the noise was the same. With the bike on the center stand rotated the rear wheel and the clacking noise was very noticeable. Took the rear wheel off and checked the drive hub bearing, it makes a slight noise when rotated so believe the bearing is going bad.


Does anyone know how to replace the bearing? Drive the old one out and press the new one in?

Any thoughts about riding with the bearing in that condition?

Thanks

 

[FinalImpact]

Total miles on the bike and has it even been under water/through streams/pressure washed? I'm not saying one can't go bad but I'd bet where you'd hear it is in the corners where the side load increases. But you're saying with the chain off (how) and the caliper off (no pads dragging) you hear a noise?

What I've seen is not all chain lubes hold up as well as others and the chain can make a bunch of noise if neglected / failing. If you can illuminate what it isn't, I guess that leaves what it is. . . but I doubt the bearings died. Well pending on the answer to the above questions.

To your question; With the snap rings out, they can be pressed out. IF you have any thoughts on reusing them, DO NOT BEAT them out by pressing, smashing, or hammering on the inner race! Do these things to the outer race only. You'll need new seals too!

From an early service manual:
View attachment 43507 View attachment 43508
Also there is an active thread with pictures. . .

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Per page 4-10 of the Yamaha manual, there aren't any c clips holding in that bearing, just the oil seal so yes, it'll just tap out.

It should be a snug fit but not pressed in...

Make sure when installing the new bearing you tap on the outter part of the race, not the inner (rotating part)

+1 on FinalImpacts comments re the chain. If its worn, not been maintained, etc, it WILL make a crackling noise. Any kinks that don't straighten out on their own is a major hint you need a new chain (and likely sprockets).

Depending on how bad that bearing is, riding with it failing/failed is likely not good. Its literally supporting the drive hub/sprocket, should it let loose and get crooked, your probably looking at the rear wheel locking up besides any additional damage (if at a higher speed, a possible broke chain, thrown thru the engine cases, etc).

If that noise your hearing ISN'T THE CHAIN but in fact the bearing, it needs to be changed ASAP....

IMHO, I'd loosen the axle, pull the chain off to the side and tighten everything back up as normal. Then spin the tire. I'm betting most if not all of your noise goes away and its the drive chain failing.

If indeed you can feel anything un-usual (not smooth/any play, etc) in that bearing, replace it, its cheap enough...

 

[Nelly]

I'm not alone.......................
I use an over sized socket to tap the bearings out. As stated oil seals will need to be replaced. I tried to re-use one but it didn't seat properly and would have let lots of crap in.
Nelly
PS you might find some of the pictures here useful?
http://www.600riders.com/forum/gara...-rear-brake-hanger-what-have-i-done-help.html

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I'm not alone.......................
I use an over sized socket to tap the bearings out. As stated oil seals will need to be replaced. I tried to re-use one but it didn't seat properly and would have let lots of crap in.
Nelly
PS you might find some of the pictures here useful?
http://www.600riders.com/forum/gara...-rear-brake-hanger-what-have-i-done-help.html

He's talking about the separate drive hub/sprocket bearing that supports strictly the drive HUB. The bearing comes out with the drive hub/sprocket assembly as its pulled away from the wheel assembly. The wheel bearings are separate.

I actually have my rear wheel off right now and checked that hub bearing (as I was waiting for my new rear tire to come in). The HUB bearing is just pushed in, no c-clips and a seal, at least for my 07..

 

[Nelly]

He's talking about the separate drive hub/sprocket bearing that supports strictly the drive HUB. The bearing comes out with the drive hub/sprocket assembly as its pulled away from the wheel assembly. The wheel bearings are separate.

I actually have my rear wheel off right now and checked that hub bearing (as I was waiting for my new rear tire to come in). The HUB bearing is just pushed in, no c-clips and a seal, at least for my 07..

Yep, place the sprocket on two pieces of wood and you can knock the bearing through using a socket as a drift.
Nelly

 

[PhotoAl]

Thanks everyone! Yesterday morning I went to local dealership and they had the bearing and oil seal!!! That was exciting as was prepared to order and wait. Pulled the wheel removed the drive hub and "pushed" the old bearing and seal out. Started with a hammer and punch striking on the outer race and it was not moving. Went for the big ballpeen hammer - that worked! New bearing went in w/o any problems using a bearing driver set from Harbor Freight which also made installing the oil seal much easier. Assembled the wheel, mounted on the bike - turned well not bearing noise so torqued the axel and went to spin the wheel -oops very hard to turn. Took wheel off and check everything. Identified as not enough grease on the seals. Re-assembled and torqued. The chain noise was still there but the popping and clicking bearing noise is gone. Rode to work today! Rode home and worked up a good sweat.

Next on the agenda: String align the wheels, sync the throttle bodies and maybe replace the timing chain tensioner. It was making noise, at the last oil change I went with Red Line 10W40 oil and it makes very little noise so may wait on that.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

From another thread, just make sure the brake hanger is indeed in the correct slot with the swingarm.


Glad it fixed it!!!