calipers - how lose should they be? ( with video)

[mylo]

long story short - after putting grease behind the pads to reduce squeel when breaking i noticed the calipers have alot of play in them (never really paid attention to them before as the shop changes the pads + does the servicing) i thought too much movement actually so i went tightening the bolts and sheared the back one the socket set i have is the cheapest available so not alot of pressure/torgue was put to tighten it but it did turn about half a spin then it broke - perhaps it was weak/already broken causing to much play and extra squeel ? im unsure ! , im guessing the spacer is to avoid over tightening of that bolt and they calipers are meant to be lose/float like they are made a quick video thats uploading now so ill add it at the end of this , possible a waste of time as im guessing the answer to my own question is yes they are meant to be lose like they are but the BMW bike that parks next to mine threw me as that bikes calipres are solid - any feedback?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hzeMPh0vStQ

 

[Carlos840]

The front calipers should not have any movement in them, they have a solid metal to metal connection and should be fixed.
Saying that the torque setting is 40Nm, which is really not much, so don't go crazy on it.

The rear caliper is mounted on a rubber bushing system, it is normal for it to wiggle a bit.

The torque settings are 22Nm for the front bolt and 28Nm for the rear bolt, which really is very little.
(pretty much just snug using a 3/8 ratchet)

If you don't have much experience with tightening bolts i would really recommend you buy a torque wrench to avoid guess work.

I got that one, it is pretty cheap but works well, seems accurate enough and the range covers 95% of the bolts on the bike.
The only thing that needs more than 112Nm is the rear axle.

Sealey STW1011 Torque Wrench Micrometer Style 3/8"Sq Drive 7-112Nm/5-83lb.ft new | eBay

 

[Gelvatron]

The front calipers should not have any movement in them, they have a solid metal to metal connection and should be fixed. Saying that the torque setting is 40Nm, which is really not much, so don't go crazy on it. The rear caliper is mounted on a rubber bushing system, it is normal for it to wiggle a bit. The torque settings are 22Nm for the front bolt and 28Nm for the rear bolt, which really is very little. (pretty much just snug using a 3/8 ratchet) If you don't have much experience with tightening bolts i would really recommend you buy a torque wrench to avoid guess work. I got that one, it is pretty cheap but works well, seems accurate enough and the range covers 95% of the bolts on the bike. The only thing that needs more than 112Nm is the rear axle. Sealey STW1011 Torque Wrench Micrometer Style 3/8"Sq Drive 7-112Nm/5-83lb.ft new | eBay

Nailed it, calipers are mounted in A fixed location so that the rotor can rotate and pass through it they are just a housing for the brake system components.
I would recommend not using a spacer and buying a torque wrench.
Best of luck

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

He has an S1 version, for the fronts, two pistons on one side of a FLOATING caliper, it should move. (Unlike the 07 and up)

Same for the single piston, rear brake. The caliber needs to float (move) as the pads wear and center itself. Once the pads are seated, pressure up against the disc, it won't be nearly as loose (unless the main bolts that allow the floating or bushings are worn out)

If it was an S2, Yes, the caliper is hard mounted to the fork and the 4 pistons take up the slack/space/play.

Re the BMW, without seeing the bike up close, if its like my 07 (S2), the front calipers are hard mounted DIRECT to the forks, thus NO flopping around, no need for centering itself. Two pistons, on each side of each pad(4 total per disc), take up the play, there is NO CENTERING of the caliper (its at a fixed point).

Get the broken bolt out and and a new one and see how much slop you have. Please use brake SPECIFIC GREASE for the high temps and no fling off...

You may be able to pull the rear caliper (depending on where the bolts broke), get a vise grip inbetween the pads and loosen the broke part(its hard to tell where its broke or I'm just missing it)

Rear caliper:

http://www.yamahapartshouse.com/oemparts/a/yam/50044e48f8700209bc7915ab/rear-brake-caliper


Fronts:

http://www.yamahapartshouse.com/oemparts/a/yam/50044e48f8700209bc7915ab/rear-brake-caliper

 

[Carlos840]

He has an S1 version, for the fronts, two pistons on one side of a FLOATING caliper, it should move. (Unlike the 07 and up)

Same for the single piston, rear brake. The caliber needs to float (move) as the pads wear and center itself. Once the pads are seated, pressure up against the disc, it won't be nearly as loose (unless the main bolts that allow the floating or bushings are worn out)

If it was an S2, Yes, the caliper is hard mounted to the fork and the 4 pistons take up the slack/space/play.

Re the BMW, without seeing the bike up close, if its like my 07 (S2), the front calipers are hard mounted DIRECT to the forks, thus NO flopping around, no need for centering itself. Two pistons, on each side of each pad(4 total per disc), take up the play, there is NO CENTERING of the caliper (its at a fixed point).

Get the broken bolt out and and a new one and see how much slop you have. Please use brake SPECIFIC GREASE for the high temps and no fling off...

You may be able to pull the rear caliper (depending on where the bolts broke), get a vise grip inbetween the pads and loosen the broke part(its hard to tell where its broke or I'm just missing it)

Rear caliper:

2004 Yamaha FZ6 (FZ600SS) Rear Brake Caliper | Babbitts Yamaha Parts House


Fronts:

2004 Yamaha FZ6 (FZ600SS) Rear Brake Caliper | Babbitts Yamaha Parts House

My bad, i didn't know the S1 had floating calipers front and rear, thanks for correcting me.

Glad you're back!

PS: disregard the torque settings i mentioned earlier, they only apply to the S2 version.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

My bad, i didn't know the S1 had floating calipers front and rear, thanks for correcting me.

Glad you're back!

PS: disregard the torque settings i mentioned earlier, they only apply to the S2 version.

No problem and thanks! :cheer:

You were dead on if it was an S2!:thumbup:

 

[FinalImpact]

Just an observation but the OPs location is pretty damp, and it seems like the calipers move too much on the pins.
The slider pins and bushings should be thoroughly cleand and checked for fit, wear.

Floating calipers rely on the pin and bushing to allow movement in and out. Not up and down or radially. Up and down indicates wear. Tear it down and inspect fit. It should be snug and slide with minimal movement in other directions. If the caliper moves other directions than plunging in out, the pads also moving and this may explain some of the noise.

 

[mylo]

thanks all ,

it was part 15 in that link thats is broken nothing else ill have to order one as i went to a few places yesterday looking and didnt find any just some regular 8mm bolts in a hardwear shop which im going to have to use until i get a proper bolt , had to keep repeating in my own head "dont use the back break - dont use the back break"

yes it very damp here the bikes in that underground car park when not in use but outside when im at work so it gets exposed to alot of rain wind hail n snow even but the breaks actually work fine and the front wheel spins a good few times so theres no rubbing of pads - just have a lil squeel which i cant hear 95% of the time anyway as i have earphones in listening to music but the rare times i dont the squeel is annoying hense the grease in the 1st place , guess im just going to have to replace the bolt and just grin and bear the noise

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

If you use brake specific grease, that stuff sticks very well and does a good job of protecting those parts. That sleeve/bolt and rubber boots do need ocassional cleaning and fresh lube.

As FI noted the calipers should move in and out, NOT laterally. I don't know if theres a bushing inside the caliper itself, but ordering the bushing (part #7) with new bolts can only help. If the caliper itself is wallowed out, the only fix for that is a replacement (or some expensive machining, another bushing, all of which I would steer away from, IMO).

Obviously, we can't tell how loose the rear is with the broken bolt.

Replacing both the smooth bolts and bushings will get the calipers as tight as possible and aren't terribly expensive.

 

[mylo]

thanks Scott
i went to my mates car garage today and got a bolt off him and he says the breaks are fine that when u press the break they become solid they are meant to be lose as for the squeek its just one of those things once the breaks work thatll do me :thumbup:

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

No problem Mylo.

I assuming you got the anti-rattle plates in? (There should be an arrow pressed into the plate which points forward and can be easily missed)