Brake Installation?

[NewKidOnTheBlock]

Can anyone point me to a how-to for brakes front and back? just got some new ones in the mail I'm hoping to get it done today.

 

[greg]

not got time to post a how to, but do the front and back separately, to avoid catastrophic loss of braking should you manage to mess up

 

[FinalImpact]

Have you looked in the How too Section (http://www.600riders.com/forum/how-tos/)? It's been done and beyond that, the Search button is your friend.

You need some rubber hose to bleed the brakes with and a 50cc syringe is very helpful to suck out the old fluid so you don't have to push it all through the system a drop at a time.

There tips scattered all over. Some have my name on them use the search thingy...

Lastly - double / triple check your work and read the service Manual!! A search will give you a link to that too!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Can anyone point me to a how-to for brakes front and back? just got some new ones in the mail I'm hoping to get it done today.

I have a Yamaha shop manual as a PDF file for an 07 thru 09 which explains it pretty well. PM me with an e-mail address to send it to, I'll be home later and will send it tonight or tomorrow.

To remove the front pads, there's 2 small clips that holds the main retaining shaft in (approx.25" diameter). That shaft holds BOTH brake pads and the anti rattle clip (SS on top).

Once those clips are removed, that shaft will come out as will the SS anti rattle clip and BOTH BRAKE PADS. The anti rattle spring has an ARROW on it that faces FORWARD (important for later re-installation).

All 4 pistons, while looking down, will be sticking out approx .25- .5". Try to get all the grit off the pistons and clean the main bracket (that the pads ride in). You don't want to force crap in the dust / main seals or they'll bind/drag...

Cover everything just under the master cylinder and remove the cover. Brake fluid WILL REMOVE PAINT..

As you push the pistons back in, brake fluid WILL FLOW BACK up to the master cylinder. As noted above remove the extra fluid before it pours out.

Do the same with the other 3 pistons. There's anti rattle pads on the back of the yamaha pads, clean and swap them over to the new pads...

Put both new pads back in (you have to reach with your other hand to support them) as well as the shim with the arrow on it (on top). Now gently re-install (I'd suggest a little bit of brake grease on this pin) lining everything up.

Re-install the 2 small retaining clips.

Gently pull the front brake lever making sure you ALWAYS HAVE BRAKE FLUID in it. It will hit the handle bars until all four pistons are back fully extended. If you allow the master cylinder to run dry and suck air, you get to bleed the entire system doubling the install time. That side is now done.

For the other side-repeat the above and top off with DOT 4 fluid.

BTW, I like to put just a little bit of anti seize on the two small steel screws that secures the master cylinder top. Between the weather and steel into aluminum, it'll make things much easier later...

Being I just finished rebuilding (re-sealing) the ft brake calibers on my FJR-(same set up) yesterday, I am quite familiar with the fronts.

 

[mikw73]

I've got one of those cheap one-man brake bleeder kits--it helps control the bled-off fluid. Also, you probably want to google "bed in new pads" to get the pads broken in quickly without developing a glaze. Street pads should soon be 100% anyway, but I like to get them up to 100% power quickly and quietly. Basically you do a series of stops to heat them up and make them conform to the grooves in the rotors once they're hot. Hard to find a good road for it, sometimes.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I have a similar bleeder, a Mity Vac, professional, cast aluminum one (it got a work out on the FJR as the whole system was dry when rebuilding both calibers..).

I've found over the years, good tools are worth the investment if your going to be using them. There's nothing worse than a tool failing in the middle of a job...

 

[greg]

i think the OP just wants to change his pads, shouldn't need to change the brake fluid or even bleed it for this

 

[NewKidOnTheBlock]

I actually found a site that details well what I'm doing, its bonemansfz6 website, quite informative!

 

[FinalImpact]

i think the OP just wants to change his pads, shouldn't need to change the brake fluid or even bleed it for this

But if you just cram the pistons back in the caliper it shoves all the old crud back into the reservoir. If pads need changed, you have to open the bleeders to avoid this and that leads us to doing a proper job bleeding the system. :thumbup:

 

[Kaisersoze]

+1 to above. Just changed front brake pads and its a PITA if you dont bleed system because you have to push in pistons to get calipers to slip back on with new pads. Unless you want to run the risk of fouling up your rotors by forcing them back on..gulp!

 

[AlexL]

But if you just cram the pistons back in the caliper it shoves all the old crud back into the reservoir. If pads need changed, you have to open the bleeders to avoid this and that leads us to doing a proper job bleeding the system. :thumbup:

What crud? Why would there be crud in there? You can depress the pistons by hand they're so small. Replacing pads doesn't open the bleeders, no air introduced into the system, no need to bleed.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Most of the crud is stuck to the part of the piston exposed. There's a very thin dust seal and then the main, thicker seal for each piston. If you force the pistons back in while filty, that crap will get in the cylinders and will cause the pistons to later bind/drag causing the brakes to drag. The main thing is to get clean pistons back into the caliper. I personally bleed the entire system anyway however should I not decide (ie the fluid was just changed) to bleed it, I would NOT loosen the bleeder screws and introduce air into the system. Just gently push the pistons back in making sure it doesn't overflow at the master cylinder.

Unless you bleed the entire system (doesn't take much) your just moving a little fluid out of the system from either the top or the caliper.

As an FYI, Yamaha recommends replacing all brake seals every 2 years! Just prior to rebuilding the calipers in my FJR, I could just get 1 full rotation on the front wheel when raised. With the new seals, a little over 3 full rotations now... I also used this Permatex ceramic brake grease on the seals which help assembly considerably, excellent product IMHO:

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0018PSASU"]Amazon.com: Permatex 24125 Ceramic Extreme Brake Lubricant - 8 oz.: Automotive[/ame]

 

[stink989]

Caliper p p p

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Caliper p p p

You are correct sir, my boo....