Bike Pulls/Leans to the Left After Tire Install

HellasFZ6

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After installing the Ngels at a local dealership I noticed that the bike starts to lean to the left after taking the hands off the handle bar while riding on average speeds around 20-50mph.

Took it back to the dealer who test rode the bike and found nothing wrong (claimed the lean to the left could be the road surface).

What could be wrong?

Thanks in advance.
 
Sounds like front to rear wheel alignment. Do a Google search for motorcycle wheel alignment and pick the method that works the best for you. Road surface does play a roll in how straight the bike tracks but it shouldn't pull very much if at all. Just my 2 cents worth:D

Jerry
 
Sounds like front to rear wheel alignment. Do a Google search for motorcycle wheel alignment and pick the method that works the best for you. Road surface does play a roll in how straight the bike tracks but it shouldn't pull very much if at all. Just my 2 cents worth:D

Jerry

The FZ6 has little hash marks on the swing arm to help you get the rear wheel lined up close enough to make it not necessary to do any of the other methods. I'd start there.
 
Is it possible your steering head bearings are shot, or done up too tight, this could cause the bike to pull to one side, more than the front & rear tyres being out of alignment....

It could just be coincidental, that you are noticing it after your tyres have been changed, and as such are thinking that the tyre change, is the reason for the problem...

But definitely still worth string lining the bike to check wheel alignment.

Keep us posted....

:thumbup:
 
I just examined the "hash marks" at both sides of the swing arm and they are isometrical.

I will try the "string test" in the morning. (9 PM here)

How could I tell if the "steering head bearings are shot, or done up too tight" ?

Thank you all for your responses.
 
I just examined the "hash marks" at both sides of the swing arm and they are isometrical.

I will try the "string test" in the morning. (9 PM here)

How could I tell if the "steering head bearings are shot, or done up too tight" ?

Thank you all for your responses.

One way to tell, is if it is hard to turn the bike at low speed, like in a carpark, or if there is play in the headstock...grab the front wheel between your legs firmly, then grab the handlebars on each end, and pull front and back, if there is movement, there is probably an issue....

:thumbup:
 
And just on a small side note: Some people here say the marks on the rear fork might not be exact and adjusting the rear tire by them will not guarantee a straight rear wheel.

I agree with this as today I adjusted the rear wheel straight using the "two wooden planks" -method described in the Haynes manual. The rear tire was not straight although the marks on both sides were exactly matched. The rear tire was off maybe 1/4-1/2 turns of an adjusting nut. That's not a huge amount, but something never the less. After the adjustment there was a slight difference in the rear fork adjustent markings between different sides, but the wheel was straight.

Next time I'm going to be 'super anal' and use a laser to get it 'straight'. :D
 
I do two checks:

Measure from the wheels edge to an identical place on the swing arm on both sides. You should get the same number on both sides. I would suggest not using the tire as the edge.

With the rear caliper off:
Place a straight edge across the caliper mounts. Use a straight edge that is longer than the rotor is round (12").

Measure between the straight edge and the rotor front and back out at the edge of the rotor. The distance should be equal.

Adjust as needed so both tests are true!

Edit:
As for the head bearings; center stand it. Have someone sit on the bike (move way back) and raise the front wheel off the ground. Grab the forks firmly by the wheel for leverage and pull them back and forth, turn it from side to side. There should be no play, no roughness, not clunking, and no sticking. It should be fluent motions.
 
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