Bike dies as tho the kill switch was hit

[Flyinace1]

Howdy folks,

I'm having a heck of a time trying to figure this out so I'm gonna try to be as thorough as possible here and see if anyone else knows.

So about a week ago my bike died while I was stopped at a light. Just cut off, no stall out or tapering off. The next day it did it twice while stopped at a light. Then later that day almost home after a 30 minute ride, it bogged down suddenly while I was going about 40/45 ish. I realized it had cut out but the movement of the bike turned it back on (like bump starting). It then shut down shortly after when I had stopped moving. I was less than a couple miles away from home when that happened but before I got home it would hardly stay on. A few days later I rode it around on some empty streets to try to diagnose it. It cut out 2 or 3 times over only 5 ish miles. It's very inconsistent tho, doesn't seem to matter if it's cold or hot. It hasn't done it on the freeway and when a friend rode it right after I tried to diagnose it, it didn't even happen to him.

Every time it cuts off, it fires right back up instantly. It runs nice and smooth like it's supposed to and the valves were checked less than 6,000 miles ago and are still in spec. Everything acts like it's fine and then it acts up and goes right back to being good. The self diagnostic hasn't picked anything up either. A mechanic friend said he's pretty positive it's not the actual fuel system but something electronic. So what do ya'll think?

If you need any more details, just ask

 

[erburtt]

Have you inspected the actual kill switch? its a known fault on the FZ6 when used frequently and its talked about a lot on here, try overriding it by connecting the wires before the switch... if that solves your problem you can either try and find a new switch, rebuild the one you have, or leave it and just use the wiring bridge you put on there to test it.

Vibration does funny things, I had a problem on my old GS500 when I sat at a light my turn signals worked perfect but as soon as I started accelerating they started to flicker, I only noticed it by the light on the dash, only happened when I revved the engine, turned out when I took the flasher relay apart the main capacitor solder had broken, it was still in contact with the board, but when it vibrated due to the engine it jiggled and intermittently broke the connection

 

[Erci]

Besides cut-off switch, I would also check side stand switch.

 

[Flyinace1]

Besides cut-off switch, I would also check side stand switch.

Checked it, the side stand has to be practically all the way down for it to cut the engine and I tried wiggling it every which way. I will check the kill switch and see if that fixes it. I wasn't aware that those could kill the bike while riding

 

[FinalImpact]

If it turns out the stop switch is not the cause, I would opt for turning the bars left to right and bouncing on the nose while stationary (engine running). Perhaps a wire from the bars or main switch is pinched and causing issues. hence - no problems on the freeway but issues in town on the side streets when turning.

Be safe and be warned that it dying at the wrong time could lead to a serious spill. I would NOT BE RIDING IT until resolved.

 

[Flyinace1]

If it turns out the stop switch is not the cause, I would opt for turning the bars left to right and bouncing on the nose while stationary (engine running). Perhaps a wire from the bars or main switch is pinched and causing issues. hence - no problems on the freeway but issues in town on the side streets when turning.

Be safe and be warned that it dying at the wrong time could lead to a serious spill. I would NOT BE RIDING IT until resolved.

Thank you for the warning. I am very aware of what can happen if it dies at the wrong time. Hence why I haven't been riding it over the past week except the once to try to get a handle on what could be happening

 

[FinalImpact]

Thank you for the warning. I am very aware of what can happen if it dies at the wrong time. Hence why I haven't been riding it over the past week except the once to try to get a handle on what could be happening

I was just thinking of the few times I've hopped on the bike, took off in 2nd gear with the BARS TURNED and DAMN stalled it. That's leg test like none-other!

So - try to do your take-offs GOING STRAIGHT just in case it turns off!
Anyway - the kill switch can be removed, cleaned, inspected, lubed and put back into service. Hopefully thats it and you don't have to dig into the harness.

 

[Flyinace1]

How would one go about removing the kill switch and cleaning it? I'm still new at doing my own work but capable, and I understand most tools and terms

 

[Nelly]

I had a faulty run switch issue and I diagnosed it after having similar symptoms to the ones you describe. When riding, gently put some pressure on the switch in the run position and move it side to side and up and down (not to the point where the switch would normally kill the enginel). I was able to reproduce the symptoms.
Heres the bypass thread.
http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-electrical/48311-run-switch-faulty.html

Nelly:thumbup:

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I had a faulty run switch issue and I diagnosed it after having similar symptoms to the ones you describe. When riding, gently put some pressure on the switch in the run position and move it side to side and up and down (not to the point where the switch would normally kill the enginel). I was able to reproduce the symptoms.
Heres the bypass thread.
http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-electrical/48311-run-switch-faulty.html

Nelly:thumbup:

Just to add to Neils post, you should be able to just sit there and gently put some pressure (no specific method) on the red switch and get it to act up/quit...

As noted above, its a known issue.

One member WAS able to clean and fix his (dirty contacts) after taking it apart.

Yamaha doesn't sell just the switch, you have to buy the entire right side handlebar assembly..

My moneys on that switch failing...

 

[Sawblade]

Mine had the same problem with the kill switch. I took it apart and scrubbed the contacts with some WD-40 and an old toothbrush, and it never gave me trouble again.

 

[Flyinace1]

So I put the bike up on the center stand and turned it on, then tried wiggling the kill switch and nothing happened. I think I'll still try taking it apart and hope it works

Sent from my HTC One V using Tapatalk

 

[Motogiro]

Also check harness connectors at the front as well as connector at the ECU.


Sent from Moto's Droid using Tapatalk 2 :mikebike:

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Mine had the same problem with the kill switch. I took it apart and scrubbed the contacts with some WD-40 and an old toothbrush, and it never gave me trouble again.

It was probably your post I was thinking of. Do you still have pictures of your procedure or link (a link would be preferred to save for later reference)? :thumbup:

 

[chornbe]

If you use the kill switch regularly (I'm one who does), it's *likely* (but not guaranteed) not the issue. Unless water has gotten in there. Regular use of switch helps deter arcing, corrosion, etc. It's worth pulling apart to check for sure, and while you're in there give it a good cleaning, etc.

If you find the switch is the issue, $90 for a new housing is cheap insurance on making sure your bike is running right, that you're not hosing any wires by doing some home chop on the wiring, and hey... I'm a huge believer in proper use of the run/kill switch. Just fix it the right way.

If it's not the issue, then it sounds like you've got either a loose/corroded connector or an exposed wire somewhere. If you find it's not the switch, then bite the bullet and tear the bike down as much as you think you can do without getting yourself into trouble. Unplug, inspect and clean, and reconnect every connector on the bike that you can trace to the run circuit or main/aux power circuits.

If you think it's beyond you after some reasonable exploration, enlist the help of someone on-forum who's familiar with the bike and its electrical systems (and issues). Don't F*** around with this. Lots of ways this can affect your safety, not to mention preventing the bike from going up in flames. (yes, extreme case to be sure, but it *can* be that serious if you have exposed wires)

Where are you located? I'm sure someone can help.

*edit*

I see you're in So-Cal. Let me know how you make out; I know some folks in the LA and surrounding areas who may be able to help.

And feel free to come by our forum at The Pace Motorcycle Podcast (http://thepacepodcast.com) and post up there. We've got a world-wide audience, and I'm sure listeners in your area will be helpful.

I'm not trying to make this a plug - just trying to get you some assistance.

 

[Nelly]

If you use the kill switch regularly (I'm one who does), it's *likely* (but not guaranteed) not the issue. Unless water has gotten in there. Regular use of switch helps deter arcing, corrosion, etc. It's worth pulling apart to check for sure, and while you're in there give it a good clean

I'm more than happy to be cor, but as I understand, it regular use of the switch is the direct cause of this issue. It has something to do with the amount of power the switch draws which then causes arching and premature contact wear.
I used my switch religiously and was very pi55ed off that I had to change my riding routine to compensate for this week design flaw.

Nelly

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

If you use the kill switch regularly (I'm one who does), it's *likely* (but not guaranteed) not the issue. Unless water has gotten in there. Regular use of switch helps deter arcing, corrosion, etc. It's worth pulling apart to check for sure, and while you're in there give it a good cleaning, etc.

If you find the switch is the issue, $90 for a new housing is cheap insurance on making sure your bike is running right, that you're not hosing any wires by doing some home chop on the wiring, and hey... I'm a huge believer in proper use of the run/kill switch. Just fix it the right way.

If it's not the issue, then it sounds like you've got either a loose/corroded connector or an exposed wire somewhere. If you find it's not the switch, then bite the bullet and tear the bike down as much as you think you can do without getting yourself into trouble. Unplug, inspect and clean, and reconnect every connector on the bike that you can trace to the run circuit or main/aux power circuits.

If you think it's beyond you after some reasonable exploration, enlist the help of someone on-forum who's familiar with the bike and its electrical systems (and issues). Don't F*** around with this. Lots of ways this can affect your safety, not to mention preventing the bike from going up in flames. (yes, extreme case to be sure, but it *can* be that serious if you have exposed wires)

Where are you located? I'm sure someone can help.

*edit*

I see you're in So-Cal. Let me know how you make out; I know some folks in the LA and surrounding areas who may be able to help.

And feel free to come by our forum at The Pace Motorcycle Podcast (The Pace Podcast | Stoking the fires of motorcycle awesomeness!) and post up there. We've got a world-wide audience, and I'm sure listeners in your area will be helpful.

I'm not trying to make this a plug - just trying to get you some assistance.

Just a side note, there's some EXTREMLY KNOWLEDGABLE electrical folks here (Motgiro, Finalimpact) whom I would trust 100% BEFORE anyone else.

Should you do a search here, in the 5 years I've been here, that switch IS INDEED a common issue, ESPECIALLY for those who use it often. The contacts in the switch get crappy and loose a good connection.

Yes it can certainly be something else however, IMO, that IS point "A" where to start at.

Agreed, the correct fix is a new switch.

The "hot wire fix" is to confirm the switch is bad BEFORE dropping $90 for a new switch. The harness comes with the switch so your NOT hurting anything.

Should you want to make a permanent by-pass, simply finding the end of those wires (the main harness), making a plug to connect the two (out of sight) would by-pass that switch W/O hacking anything..

 

[chornbe]

I'm more than happy to be cor, but as I understand, it regular use of the switch is the direct cause of this issue. It has something to do with the amount of power the switch draws which then causes arching and premature contact wear.
I used my switch religiously and was very pi55ed off that I had to change my riding routine to compensate for this week design flaw.

Nelly

When will these companies start using properly designed circuits...

The 'Strom was built with similarly poor choices.

 

[chornbe]

Just a side note, there's some EXTREMLY KNOWLEDGABLE electrical folks here (Motgiro, Finalimpact) whom I would trust 100% BEFORE anyone else.

You sound quite defensive; I certainly wasn't suggesting otherwise. I was simply trying to find him some in-person assistance.

Lighten up. No one's pissing in anyone's wheaties, here. :thumbup:

 

[payneib]

I used my switch religiously and was very pi55ed off that I had to change my riding routine to compensate for this week design flaw.

Nelly

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

I was taught that the kill switch is for emergency use, it's there as a big red "OFF" button for when you're in a hedge and your bike is somehow still running on the deck pouring petrol all over itself, or if the bike is on fire and you need to kill it now, while keeping your electrics on to signal that you're pulling in, as two random examples.

For every day use you should be using your ignition key to shut down, as the relays involved in the ignition circuit are designed to go open circuit under the loads of a running engine.