There's also a main 30 amp fuse that usually sits in an assembly atop the battery. There should be the starter interrupt relay attached. Lift and prop the tank. Look to see this is attached properly(insulated etc) and that the fuse is good. Pull the 30 amp fuse or disconnect the battery! Fuses are meant to protect circuits and prevent fires. The fuse is the highest warning, other than a fire or burned components, you'll receive to tell you, you have a problem that must be fixed properly. Do not replace any fuses at this point! Inspect the wires exiting the frame and make sure they are insulated. If you're pulling wires lock to lock with the steering you need to fix that.If you don't find a problem in the this area proceed on the concept we discussed before about a problem with a pinched wire at the steering.
I would cut the sheath longwise where you think it may have been pinched.
You'll find a heavy red wire a heavy brown with blue tracer wire. A lighter gauge white with blue tracer and a lighter gauge blue with black tracer wire. These are the wires to and from the ignition switch that are powered off that 30 amp main fuse. Take your time! (I sound like yer dad huh!) Well son....Good luck with your mission!
Written like P R O!!!!!!!!
I'm not sure how the other manufactures reduce the mechanical strain on those wires but the way they're tied in there puts some strain on them.
I suppose we should do a writeup on how to properly repair a harness. I will say that I have allot of odds and ends around but nothing to prepare me for a repair like that. FWIW: any wire that has crush, over heat, burn, and or strain damage from being flexed needs replaced. The issue here is you can splice it where it used to flex and the strain at that joint increases when the wire(s) have to flex even more from butt connectors/solder splices etc.
My point: you must make repairs in an area that is not subject to motion or it will fail again.
