Bike attempted to be stolen and now I have issues......

[Ajasay]

So my bike was attempted to be stolen twice in 2 days...... which really sucks.
On the first attempt the bent my handle bars making it unable to be ridden ( which I was mad about but handle bars are pretty cheapish and easily switched) then 2 days later they cut my ignition cord and tried to hot wire it but only moved it about 8 feet before giving up. So now I got a new ignition and after a few hours of swearing and struggling i got it replaced and put back together only to find I have dead battery, I charged it and now I can start it. However I cant have the kickstand down which i could before and also I don't have a neutral light anymore also I have a check engine light on with the code 46 which I know means the charging system, I also have no turn signals or hazards, and no running tail light ( the break light still works fine). What should I be checking/doing to fix this problem? I already have started the moving process to prevent this from happening again once it is fixed.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

How did you do the repairs?

Did you replace the entire ignition switch and plug it into the MAIN harness under the tank?

Same with any other cut lines??

I suspect there's some other wires missed, either cut, or pulled out (hard), giving you a bad connection.

I believe the wire for the neutral light, not showing green, will be related to the side-stand now not working (bike thinks it's in gear all the time).

@ Motogiro

 

[Ajasay]

Ya I replaced the entire ignition and traced the old wire to the two plugs under the air box but probably today I'm going to check those connections its just a pain to get to them and hopefully get the side stand taken apart and looked at to see if I need a new one or what. Would that also cause my blinkers not to work and my horn to sound like like garbage?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

With what they did, they likely yanked many wires (may be broken INTERNALLY) causing your issues (as these are NEW to the bike being recovered).

The side stand switch is likely fine, just check the wiring following it up under the throttle bodies, that that wasn't yanked..

The horn and blinker switches ALL go to the handle bars, thus somethings messed up in that area....

 

[swedespeed]

Wow. A-holes. Sorry man.

 

[Motogiro]

It is likely your "starting circuit-cutoff relay" module has been damaged and this is why you have no neutral light and the the computer thinks the bike is in gear when you put the side stand down. This is a common damage when the FZ6 is hot wired by thieves. The unit is #25 on the parts fiche. $37 and change at Ron Ayers. https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/yam/5004610cf8700209bc795346/electrical-2

The other problems are likely blown fuses. You should go through your fuses and check for blown fuses.

Please keep us posted on your progress and :welcome: to the forum! :rockon:

 

[Ajasay]

OK so i spent the better part of today going through pretty much everything including my stator which looked worn but fine and I even took out my neutral safety switch i think its called and it looked great, I also checked all my connections and they all looked good and had good connections. however i could not find my regulator/rectifier ( I looked everywhere i thought had room maybe I'm dumb and missed it), i also am getting a new blinker relay monday. Also I charged my battery all day yesterday and got it to start under its own power which gave me the error codes, but today after work I couldn't start it due to dead battery so that sounds like what the error code 46 means something wrong with the charging system but i also haven't ridden it besides around the block a few times, I would've gone further to help charge the battery except the no turn signals or running tail light made me nervous about safety. I'll take a look at that site and get one and out it on I think it's so close to being back out in the wind which makes me both excited and also stressed I just wanna be riding again. thanks for all your guys help and I'll keep everyone updated with my progress until it's fixed

 

[Ajasay]

Would I need to replace that whole body that has the signals and horn which I could do even with hating electrical work? Or would some other way be possible? At this point I'm ready to do anything just to ride again. I really love this bike and can't believe some people would do this although I know some people are real jerks when it comes to other peoples property

 

[Ajasay]

With what they did, they likely yanked many wires (may be broken INTERNALLY) causing your issues (as these are NEW to the bike being recovered).

The side stand switch is likely fine, just check the wiring following it up under the throttle bodies, that that wasn't yanked..

The horn and blinker switches ALL go to the handle bars, thus somethings messed up in that area....

Would I need to replace that whole body that has the signals and horn which I could do even with hating electrical work? Or would some other way be possible? At this point I'm ready to do anything just to ride again. I really love this bike and can't believe some people would do this although I know some people are real jerks when it comes to other peoples property

 

[Ajasay]

Also i want to do a naked conversion on this bike where is the best place to buy this item cause they really messed up my front fairings when they screwed my handle bars does anyone know where to get this at?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Did you attach a meter to see what your charging voltage is?

A fully charged battery is about 12.8 volts. While running, up to 5,000 RPMs, you should see about 14 volts.

If you see 14 volts or so, your checking of the stator and wanting to check the voltage regulator is a waste of time.

The directional and horn is NOT one "unit".


To give you an idea of the charging voltage (my bike, cold start-with a battery that needs replacement ):

https://www.flickr.com/photos/147134237@N06/29303851750/in/dateposted/

 

[Motogiro]

OK so i spent the better part of today going through pretty much everything including my stator which looked worn but fine and I even took out my neutral safety switch i think its called and it looked great, I also checked all my connections and they all looked good and had good connections. however i could not find my regulator/rectifier ( I looked everywhere i thought had room maybe I'm dumb and missed it), i also am getting a new blinker relay monday. Also I charged my battery all day yesterday and got it to start under its own power which gave me the error codes, but today after work I couldn't start it due to dead battery so that sounds like what the error code 46 means something wrong with the charging system but i also haven't ridden it besides around the block a few times, I would've gone further to help charge the battery except the no turn signals or running tail light made me nervous about safety. I'll take a look at that site and get one and out it on I think it's so close to being back out in the wind which makes me both excited and also stressed I just wanna be riding again. thanks for all your guys help and I'll keep everyone updated with my progress until it's fixed

I hope you're making some headway with getting your bike running.

A few things to keep in mind.
You can't tell if the stator is working properly by looking to see if it's worn. The stator is stationary and does not move or touch anything so it does not wear out. It can short or open circuit. This means you must test it electronically as well as the neutral safety switch. A multimeter is a great tool to have and you can get one at a very reasonable price.
There are also more tests to tell the health of your charging system. The first test would be to charge the battery using the correct charger and then load testing the battery. If you take the battery out and charge it, you can take it to an auto parts supply that will likely load test it for free for you. The fact that you're seeing an error code 46 is a good indication there is a charging system failure. If the bike has been jump started from a car/vehicle that had the motor running, the regulator/rectifier may have been damaged or destroyed.

 

[Ajasay]

ok everyone Ive been working as much as I can on my bike since my work schedule is crazy, but I got a new neutral safety switch which not only fixed my neutral light problem but also my check engine light problems so Im able to ride it now. I also checked the volts on my battery which would just drop unless on a charger so I replaced that as well. However I still dont have any blinkers so I bought a new blinker relay and also bought a starting circuit relay just in case anything else pops up as I keep working and upgrading my bike. Thanks for all the help with getting my bike up and running!!! I appreciate this whole community and plan to continue checking it and helping with any knowledge Ive gained throughout this process.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

ok everyone Ive been working as much as I can on my bike since my work schedule is crazy, but I got a new neutral safety switch which not only fixed my neutral light problem but also my check engine light problems so Im able to ride it now. I also checked the volts on my battery which would just drop unless on a charger so I replaced that as well. However I still dont have any blinkers so I bought a new blinker relay and also bought a starting circuit relay just in case anything else pops up as I keep working and upgrading my bike. Thanks for all the help with getting my bike up and running!!! I appreciate this whole community and plan to continue checking it and helping with any knowledge Ive gained throughout this process.

What's the CHARGING volts when the engine is running?

 

[FinalImpact]

Wow - what an ordeal. Everyone hitting their marks with help... Good job.


There is not much to the charging system. A stator, RR, and the battery. If a good battery is drained over night, that points to the diodes within the RR.

As stated off you should see 12.9v.
Above 2500 RPM upwards of 13.5v.
That said it could charge at 13.5v and still have a leaky diode in the RR which could drain the battery when off.

FWIW there is thread stickied which details how to TS the charging system.

 

[Ajasay]

its was like at like 12.5ish when I first started it but unless I was revving it pretty hardcore it;d drop even with the bike on.
And today finally after all this time every last bug and kink are finally fixed, the bike is back to the original running condition it was before these guys came and wrecked my world. Besides a few dents & scratches to the body work that i'm not going to replace as I do my conversion everything is fixed & all locked up so hopefully this doesn't happen again

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

its was like at like 12.5ish when I first started it but unless I was revving it pretty hardcore it;d drop even with the bike on.

Your charging system is broke if that's all the volts it's showing..

Keep your cell phone charged, you'll need it..