Best 15T front sprocket?

[beatle]

Yesterday I did a track day at VIR. It was the first open track day for me on the bike as the first two were with CSS and were more focused on learning than just going fast. I was in the novice group with the lowest horsepower of any bike out there, but I knew most of the course which helped me get around the corners better than most. On the street I've never said to myself "Boy, I wish this bike wasn't such a slug," but even with a good slingshot of momentum through a familiar part of the course, I only managed to pass a few bikes.

The gap would close quickly in the corners, and then as soon as it opened up to pass, I started to close less, then not at all, and then I'd start to fall behind. Being down 30-60 hp and carrying around another 40 pounds of weight was just too big a mountain to climb. Dropping a tooth would at least give me a bit more tug to "show some wheel" to hopefully get some polite passes. I only managed an indicated 137mph on the straights in 5th gear, so losing a bit of top end due to gearing is not going to hurt much anyway.

All that said, who makes the best front sprocket? Does anyone make one with the integrated rubber damper that the stock one comes with? If no, what's the next best thing for longevity and smoothness?

 

[fazil]

I use Vortex 15t. It makes some grinding noise at the beginning, because it has no rubber as oem one. But then that noise goes away. May be because of chain oil, not sure.

 

[Carlos840]

A thing worth saying, the FZ6 top speed isn't limited by gearing but by power.

Like yours, my bike did 137mph exactly with the stock gearing, i then switched the front sprocket to a 15T guess what?
Top speed was still 137mph, but the bike felt snappier.

I then added a +2 sprocket in the rear, and lo and behold, top speed was still 137mph, but the bike now ran much better, felt like it was a lot easier to keep in the power band, and was always ready to go.

The only cons i can thing of are:

-You gain around 1000rpm at equivalent speed, if you do a lot of mileage on the highway it might bother you.
-Fuel mileage goes way down, the bike is naturally running at higher rpm, and the extra snappiness makes it hard not to open the throttle.

I would still say that going -1/+2 was one of the best things i did to the bike.

Brand wise i think a good sprocket is a good sprocket! A lot of people will tell you this or that brand is the best or the worst, you just have to try them...
I used a Renthal steel in the front and a Renthal aluminium in the rear, nothing bad to say about either. The front sprocket doesn't have any rubber, and i could not tell the difference noise wise.

 

[beatle]

The "snappiness" is exactly what I'm after. People in the novice group may be less likely to "fight" someone being passed. I know I don't.

If I like it I may do the +2 rear as well, but only when my chain is due as I know -1/+2 would require a different chain anyway.

How much did your MPG drop? I get around 45 in mixed riding. Highest has been 52, lowest 42 (track days notwithstanding).

 

[Carlos840]

The "snappiness" is exactly what I'm after. People in the novice group may be less likely to "fight" someone being passed. I know I don't.

If I like it I may do the +2 rear as well, but only when my chain is due as I know -1/+2 would require a different chain anyway.

How much did your MPG drop? I get around 45 in mixed riding. Highest has been 52, lowest 42 (track days notwithstanding).

I did -1+2 on the original chain and didn't have to change it.
Don't forget it will screw up your tach, you will need a speedo healer to correct it.

Mileage is 37 to 42 mpg.

 

[FinalImpact]

Sunstar PN: 2-547448 48-Teeth for the rear if you want to go that route. Hint: Amazoo for $42 so it cost more, but the chain doesn't have to turn as sharp of corner....
It's steel and lighter than the OEM 46T Sunstar from where they trimmed the material. A worthwhile change and the stock chain will fit but it does move the axle forward 3/8"

That said you get more ratio change w/ 15/46 - 3.07:1 vs 16/48 - 3.00:1 but its so close, who cares...

If you look close you see its cut out right to the edge near the teeth.
It does not come in black - that's powder coated.

 

[FinalImpact]

Forgot I had this picture. Yes, the rear sprocket swap costs more, but here you can see the difference in material removed making the sprocket a lot lighter.

Sunstar PN: 2-547448 48-Teeth vs OEM 46 tooth. Notice the material being trimmed right up to the teeth, the beveled teeth, and the narrower spokes. Its a lot lighter.

 

[FZ6Hot]

I did the 520 chain/sprocket change and went +2 on the rear sprocket, no change in the front. Supposedly only gives the bike an extra 500rpm but the bike does feel snappier. Are you keeping the revs above 8,000 in the corners? I'm slow on the track but I can usually pass faster bikes except on the long straights (slow group). Even in the intermediate group I can hang with the back markers. Getting passed in the corners by 250's is a good reminder it's more about skill than power on the track. The local #1 racer wins on his gsxr 600 against litre bikes.

 

[beatle]

I did the 520 chain/sprocket change and went +2 on the rear sprocket, no change in the front. Supposedly only gives the bike an extra 500rpm but the bike does feel snappier. Are you keeping the revs above 8,000 in the corners? I'm slow on the track but I can usually pass faster bikes except on the long straights (slow group). Even in the intermediate group I can hang with the back markers. Getting passed in the corners by 250's is a good reminder it's more about skill than power on the track. The local #1 racer wins on his gsxr 600 against litre bikes.

Yes, I've got lots of revs on the boil, and I'm keeping a fair amount of momentum through the corner, but since I can't legally pass in the corners, I just fall back when exiting.

I have 24k on the stock chain and everything looks great. I'm not sure if I should pick up both a 15t and a 48t - I think you can get away with that or -1 in front, but not +2 in the rear on its own. Is that correct?

 

[beatle]

Bump. I know I'm hijacking my own thread, but does anyone know how low you can go in gearing without changing out the chain? -1 up front, +2 in rear, both?

 

[FinalImpact]

Bump. I know I'm hijacking my own thread, but does anyone know how low you can go in gearing without changing out the chain? -1 up front, +2 in rear, both?

Sunstar PN: 2-547448 48-Teeth for the rear if you want to go that route. Hint: Amazoo for $42 so it cost more, but the chain doesn't have to turn as sharp of corner....
It's steel and lighter than the OEM 46T Sunstar from where they trimmed the material. A worthwhile change and the stock chain will fit but it does move the axle forward 3/8"

That said you get more ratio change w/ 15/46 - 3.07:1 vs 16/48 - 3.00:1 but its so close, who cares...

If you look close you see its cut out right to the edge near the teeth.
It does not come in black - that's powder coated.

520/530 - every pin set is 5/8" long so going to 48 on the rear is the end of the line for the stock chain. With 15 on the front you should be fine as its going to get smaller in OD... ideally I need more links but it does fit and leaves a small amount of adjustment to get 2.0"+ of slack on the S2 chassis.

 

[beatle]

Sounds like all combinations work on the stock chain?

 

[Carlos840]

Sounds like all combinations work on the stock chain?

I first did -1 in the front, then -1/+2, both on the stock chain and it was fine.

-1 in the front isn't as dramatic a change as -1/+2 is. If you are going to race the bike and don't mind the 800rpm raise it is definitely the best mod you can do to gain a bit of grunt.