Battery problems

[TheRabbi]

I bought a used 2008 a few weeks back and last Friday the battery died in the afternoon (No, I haven't left the keys in the ignition :BLAA. I left it on my buddy's battery tender overnight to charge it up and it was perfectly normal the next morning. I went to the shop to have them check it out and they said everything looked fine, the battery had a charge (duh, just charged it) and that the stator was putting out power. They said that if it happens again to just go ahead and replace the battery.

The battery is only four years old and my buddy's Yami V-Star has had the same battery for 6 years and he's had no issues with it. He said he has only used his tender twice, both times because he left the key in the ignition and killed it while out, never regularly even while stored over winter.

Has anyone else had issues with their battery? Is it expected to have to replace it after just four years?

Also worth mentioning, I've driven it practically every day so it shouldn't be from decay. I do live in Texas and I know heat *can* affect batteries although I wouldn't think this drastically. There is an HID kit (ballasts + bulbs, not a retrofit) and an aftermarket LED "fairing" kit (I've had it on twice for a total of 10 seconds). I'm not really concerned about the LEDs, but is it possible that the HIDs are pulling more than the stator can keep up with? The shop assured me that wasn't the case.

 

[oldfast007]

I would just get a new battery, I replaced mine at almost 4 years, just wouldn't hold a charge. I believe there is not much charging going on below 4k, the output on these bikes is not really astounding capacity wise, good luck.

 

[seacliff]

I bought a used 2008 a few weeks back and last Friday the battery died in the afternoon (No, I haven't left the keys in the ignition :BLAA. I left it on my buddy's battery tender overnight to charge it up and it was perfectly normal the next morning. I went to the shop to have them check it out and they said everything looked fine, the battery had a charge (duh, just charged it) and that the stator was putting out power. They said that if it happens again to just go ahead and replace the battery.

The battery is only four years old and my buddy's Yami V-Star has had the same battery for 6 years and he's had no issues with it. He said he has only used his tender twice, both times because he left the key in the ignition and killed it while out, never regularly even while stored over winter.

Has anyone else had issues with their battery? Is it expected to have to replace it after just four years?

Also worth mentioning, I've driven it practically every day so it shouldn't be from decay. I do live in Texas and I know heat *can* affect batteries although I wouldn't think this drastically. There is an HID kit (ballasts + bulbs, not a retrofit) and an aftermarket LED "fairing" kit (I've had it on twice for a total of 10 seconds). I'm not really concerned about the LEDs, but is it possible that the HIDs are pulling more than the stator can keep up with? The shop assured me that wasn't the case.

4 years seems like a reasonable time to change a battery (at least here in canada).
Depending on all your add-ons and commute time, the battery may not have time to fully charge between each rides. I've heard people using their car to commute (like 2 km away) to and from their work and had to change their battery yearly because of that.

 

[jspansel]

I bought a new left over 09 R6 in 2011 and the battery needed replaced within a year.

 

[TheRabbi]

I would just get a new battery, I replaced mine at almost 4 years, just wouldn't hold a charge. I believe there is not much charging going on below 4k, the output on these bikes is not really astounding capacity wise, good luck.

Sorry, just to clarify. If I got a new battery but the output below 4k is still not enough wouldn't the new battery die just as quickly? And, to the second point, should I be running my RPMs fairly high then? That seems odd to have to do, is there an "ideal" RPM range? The "recommended" shift pattern keeps the RPMs right around 4k in the city (85% of my driving, 99% of my week day driving).

 

[seacliff]

Sorry, just to clarify. If I got a new battery but the output below 4k is still not enough wouldn't the new battery die just as quickly? And, to the second point, should I be running my RPMs fairly high then? That seems odd to have to do, is there an "ideal" RPM range? The "recommended" shift pattern keeps the RPMs right around 4k in the city (85% of my driving, 99% of my week day driving).

You can always plug your battery every night

 

[iSteve]

The battery is always charging above idle it's just that slightly higher rpm's it's more efficient and not as affected by accessories. But don't think if 4k is good 10k is better the voltage is regulated once it is making peak voltage it doesn't go past that.

I would just keep riding and if the battery goes dead again get a new one and you should be good for at least another four years.

 

[FinalImpact]

Do you know the wattage of the HID unit(s)?
Typically might be in the range of 35W so, yes, you are correct that it should be better off than with halogen(s). Although some HID units have been known to induce noise into system which can induce other issues. Perhaps those were installation faults tho? IDK


FWIW: My 08 was assembled in Jan, 08. Sold in July 08, had 41xx miles when I bought it in April 2011. The battery is doing fine at 11k as of 2012-08.

 

[motojoe122]

My battery too...bought in late Sept. '10 ...0 miles.+ 1 complete discharge(my fault) and a truck recharge....never a problem since.

 

[CNY Fizzer]

Not being a smart aleck but are you sure the battery is drained. Twice I thought my battery was done and was preparing to jump start to discover that the bike was in gear (won't start with clutch out) from when I last parked it. So first check shift lever, kill switch, etc. Having said that 4 years is not unusual for battery life, although I'm still on my original 2004!

 

[Motogiro]

The only way to tell if the battery is healthy to begin with is to charge it and then load test it. The load testing tells what the battery's depth or amp hour rating is. If it passes then on to other possibilities. Do not jump the bike from a running car. It will do in the regulator /rectifier.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The only way to tell if the battery is healthy to begin with is to charge it and then load test it. The load testing tells what the battery's depth or amp hour rating is. If it passes then on to other possibilities. Do not jump the bike from a running car. It will do in the regulator /rectifier.

+1 on the above...

If you don't want to pull the battery, put a volt meter on the terminals and crank it over watching the drop in voltage. It shouldn't drop much.

When my battery was starting to go, I only knew initially there was a problem when the dash lights dimmed when starting (it always started). I checked the cranking voltage and it dropped to 8 volts and it still started. I replaced the battery after that as I don't care to get stranded...

If you don't have the duel headlight mod and many accessories running at idle, roughly 1300 RPM's, the bateries charging, not alot, but its charging. 5,000 RPM's is Max charging, 14 volts...

As a side note, I do have dual LB (BD43 mod) headlights, have my idle set at 1,000 rpm's (below specified, personal preference) and yes, it does NOT charge at idle. I do very little idling and once you start rolling, its charging.. Been this way for over 3 years, no problems...

Depending on conditions, (riding, heat, battery draw, etc) the life of your battery will vary. You may get 7 years out of it, maybe less. The original owner, (my friend), when he bought this bike brand new, had the battery die the next day after he picked it up from the showroom floor. The shop replaced it the next day.. Under 50 miles on the clock. Why did it die, brand new, just out of the air conditioned showroom? Likely from salesman playing/showing the bike off in the store, the battery never got re-charged..

 

[CNY Fizzer]

Not being a smart aleck but are you sure the battery is drained. Twice I thought my battery was done and was preparing to jump start to discover that the bike was in gear (won't start with clutch out) from when I last parked it. So first check shift lever, kill switch, etc. Having said that 4 years is not unusual for battery life, although I'm still on my original 2004!

Sorry, I meant push start - not jump start. I would not recommend jump starting.

 

[TheRabbi]

The only way to tell if the battery is healthy to begin with is to charge it and then load test it. The load testing tells what the battery's depth or amp hour rating is. If it passes then on to other possibilities. Do not jump the bike from a running car. It will do in the regulator /rectifier.

The shop alleged that it passed load testing fine, which was odd that they recommended a new battery if it happened again. :/

Not being a smart aleck but are you sure the battery is drained. Twice I thought my battery was done and was preparing to jump start to discover that the bike was in gear (won't start with clutch out) from when I last parked it. So first check shift lever, kill switch, etc. Having said that 4 years is not unusual for battery life, although I'm still on my original 2004!

Legitimate question, but it would make that clicking sound (similar to a car) when I tried to turn it on. Plus, when we got it on the battery tender the indicator showed that it was under 10% (lowest).

Do you know the wattage of the HID unit(s)?
Typically might be in the range of 35W so, yes, you are correct that it should be better off than with halogen(s). Although some HID units have been known to induce noise into system which can induce other issues. Perhaps those were installation faults tho? IDK

I want to say they are 55w, I'm about 80% sure on that. They were installed at the dealer I went to and they assured me it shouldn't draining any more than usual.

 

[dz0]

Make sure your posts are clean and contact is tight. If the shop says the alternator output is good, it probably is. I would not be super surprised if the battery needed replacement at four years. Your bike and battery are not your buddies and they have seen different "lives". Maybe that once or twice yours got a little extra Texas sun just put it over the edge. Maybe you boiled off some water and it won't hold as much charge.....

I would not fret over replacing it. If it's a huge deal to your pocketbook, then start looking at the specific gravity and the rest of it. If not, replace it and don't look back.

re: "Do not jump the bike from a running car" Can someone enlighten me as to why 12V is a problem for 12v? Is the amperage too high?
Thanks.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Make sure your posts are clean and contact is tight. If the shop says the alternator output is good, it probably is. I would not be super surprised if the battery needed replacement at four years. Your bike and battery are not your buddies and they have seen different "lives". Maybe that once or twice yours got a little extra Texas sun just put it over the edge. Maybe you boiled off some water and it won't hold as much charge.....

I would not fret over replacing it. If it's a huge deal to your pocketbook, then start looking at the specific gravity and the rest of it. If not, replace it and don't look back.

re: "Do not jump the bike from a running car" Can someone enlighten me as to why 12V is a problem for 12v? Is the amperage too high?
Thanks.

Yes, the amperage from a RUNNING car will damage you VR. As long as the car isn't running, a good 12 volt battery will work just fine.

Its not lke your jumping a car to car, you need just 12 volts, and not alot of amps as it doesn't take much to spin over 4, 150cc pistons.. As stated earlier, my bike cranked and started with just 8 volts...

 

[DefyInertia]

Get stranded should not be a concern. You can always push start the bike, dead battery or not. I've push started an FZ that didn't even have enough juice to power the clock on the instrument cluster, let alone the fuel pump or gauges.

 

[Se7enLC]

I recommend installing a voltmeter somewhere you can see it while riding (Make sure it's ignition-switched, of course, or you'll end up draining the battery). If it shows 12 or below, it's not charging. If it shows more like 13 or 14, it's charging. You'll be surprised how high the RPMs need to be to charge, especially if you have a lot of accessories. I've removed the dual-headlight cable a few times when I was worried my battery was getting too low. I may even wire up a switch for that second headlight so I can turn it off on demand.