Ball in rattle can noise after clutch engagement

[hobo7]

Yeah I went for a short, 1/4 mile ride after removing that, cleaning and lubing the chain, and tightening the chain. The original noise is gone, but as mentioned in a previous post I have the new noise, probably from being a bit much on the tight side.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Yeah I went for a short, 1/4 mile ride after removing that, cleaning and lubing the chain, and tightening the chain. The original noise is gone, but as mentioned in a previous post I have the new noise, probably from being a bit much on the tight side.

If you can keep it one one thread, its usually easier to follow...

Whats the new noise, audio of it?

 

[hobo7]

I don't have a good description of the noise and haven't gotten video yet. Quite confident it's the chain making it. I intend to loosen it up another .3ish inches and see how that affects it. I'll keep you posted.
Thanks!

 

[hobo7]

Hey guys,

So I'm now at about 2" of slack, and the noise is definitely much quieter. I can still hear the chain faintly, but I'm not sure if this is what it's supposed to sound like. I think overall it's all good and fine now.

I put the bike in first on the center stand and watched the wheel for wobble and the chain to make sure they were straight, and I didn't notice anything being off. I also did measurements from the rear axle to where the swing arm mounts to the frame again and they both equaled out, as well as being identical on the tick marks.

I'm a little more paranoid with it being only two wheels and being inexperienced myself, so I might take it into a bike shop just to have them verify all is good, but it rode fine during my dinner run.

I think it's case closed for now :rockon:

Thank you all for the help!

 

[tyler2011]

It might be worthwhile to check your tire/chain alignment with the string method. The yammie likes to be near the 2" mark. I find that when I can push the chain up to the lower guide (as shown in the manual) on the swing arm it is time for a slight tightening.

http://www.600riders.com/forum/how-tos/40463-how-string-align-your-rear-wheel.html

I know mine was off. I have the older S1 swingarm and find it helpful to loosen the axle only enough to let the bolts pull it back, then the tensioning bolts never become loose. I find it much harder to get it aligned if I need to loosen the chain. It is important to note that during this I can turn the adjuster nut with 1 finger, so there is not much tension on the axle. Even though they are designed to take some tension, you can damage the adjusting bolts if you do not loosen the axle enough.


I will also note that i have tightened the chain 3 times in the last 16k miles and the chain now has 23k miles on it. I have noticed a slight bit more "humm" from the chain as it has aged which is also more noticeable when it needs lubrication. O-ring chains have the rollers internally lubricated and sealed by the o-rings, but the metal-to-metal contact points deserve some love to. It is getting near the end of its life but still looks good with no tight links.

 

[hobo7]

Yeah I've got a shop where the guys are super friendly and have actually just come out and given me free advice and shot the **** with me for 10-20 minutes a couple of times now, but I feel somewhat like they just don't want to work on my bike too haha. Either way, the guy took a look at it but checked all the things I already did and said it was fine. I need to re-read that string method until I understand it just to verify I guess.

 

[FinalImpact]

I hadn't read that in a while... (string align)
The only real trick is to NOT bend the string over the front of the tire. Just barely rest it there.
I'm not sure how many of you have done framing or set fence posts, but if you let something touch/move the string in the middle (between start and end), its no longer s straight line and is not accurate. Same applies here.

A ---------- B ----------------------C
B is the leading edge of the tire. A TO C is a straight line or your doing it wrong. The trick is B has to just contact the tire but not bend the string. Now measure from C to the rotor. Repeat on other side. Don't forget the center the bars perfectly straight.

You could use a giant straight edge and get the same results. I think a string is easier!

Good luck! Final Impact

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

How the chain is riding on the rear sprocket, (you can see the wear marks), is also a good indicator if its running true.

Here's a pretty informative thread:

http://www.600riders.com/forum/gara...77-chain-not-centered-over-rear-sprocket.html