Another one to the list (cracked oil pain)

[CoolATIGuy]

Add me to the list of those that cracked their oil pan.

Was using a torque wrench, tightened up the oil drain plug, never heard a click, and eventually the bolt just starts free spinning. Have a crack in the pan and metal pieces on the bolt threads.

I found a couple posts with info - basically looks like I can spend ~$120, buy a new oil pan + gasket + oil drain plug, remove only the headers, drop the drain pan, and install the new pan without doing anything else (no draining or removing of the radiator, no removing of the water pump, no silicon required for the oil pan gasket, etc) - does that sound correct?

Any tips on any of this. Don't want to make any more mistakes.

 

[skooter65]

Sorry to hear man!

Hopefully a bit of good news for you though; I am parting out an 07' motor and may be able to save you a few bucks instead of buying new.

Drop me a PM if you are interested; I am tearing off a bunch of parts over this weekend.

Thank you!

 

[CoolATIGuy]

Thanks for the condolences skooter!

Are '07 and '05 the same? I know '06 to '07 was the larger changeover in model styles.

Thankfully the job looks easier than some other bikes - mechanic said it's quoted at only around an hour of labor. Oil Pan itself MSRP is only ~$120, and boats.net (which is the least expensive place I've found for parts) is only ~$73 (that's brand new).

Bummer is I'll have to wait for it to arrive. And I think I may have the mechanic do it...if I can't even do an oil change, not sure I should attempt this (although I'm sure I could).

 

[skooter65]

No problem at all.

Looking at the parts numbers for both part (04-06' and 07-09'); I am nearly certain that they are interchangeable.

4S8-13400-00-00
5VX-13400-00-00

The first three digits merely identify the motorcycle model, the remaining digits signify the actual part number.

I think you may have been looking at the wrong number on the boats website as well. The "Savings" are near $73, but the actual part cost about $103. I was going to list the pan for $45 + shipping. I could have this in the mail first thing on Tuesday and, if you were interested, we could even look at express shipping to get it there sooner.

The only thing I would hazard if you are doing this job yourself; start blasting the header bolts with rust penetrant now. Actually, I would probably do this if you were bringing it to a mechanic as well. The nuts ten to corrode and bind to the stud in the engine, especially on a near 10 year old bike. 8 Times out of 10, the stud will break.

Just a thought!

 

[CoolATIGuy]

You are right, I was looking at the '06 by mistake. On my '05, MSRP is $168.49. Boats.net is $125.91.

Partzilla is only $93.74, minus 5% off with coupon code "meetsister". $9.39 FedEx ground shipping (not sure how much for expedited).

While I hate spending extra, I'd really hate waiting a few days to get a used part and find it doesn't fit, or has a non-visible defect, etc etc, if that makes sense..already bummed enough as it is. But I'll keep it in mind, thanks!

And I have had my headers off before, so hopefully they are somewhat loosened. Guess we'll find out.. Appreciate the input

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

My Yamaha 4 stroke outboard uses the same size drain plug. (steel plug into sluminum). The manual calls for 20 foot lbs.

Obviously don't try 31 ft lbs again.

Shows new $94 here: Yamaha Motorcycle Parts 2005 FZ6 - FZ6ST OIL CLEANER Diagram plus you need a pan gasket. 8.7 ft pounds on the pan itself including the center bolt. Per the anual, no sealer..


If you can get the header off (its already been off) AND have some GOOD torque wrenches, you can change it out yourself.

 

[CoolATIGuy]

The manual calls for 31 ft lbs on the oil drain plug. 12 ft lbs on the oil filter.

I think my problem was I didn't realize the torque wrench clicked but would continue to let you pull...for some reason I was thinking it would slip like a ratchet so you couldn't overdo it. I've used it before; guess it's just been too long.

The oil pan (#9) appears to come with the oil drain plug (#10) and drain plug gasket (#11), does that sound right? So I just need #9 and #12 (the pan gasket)?

What about #15, the dowel pins? Or any of the other o-rings/gaskets/parts etc I should swap out while it's out anyways? I guess I should do the exhaust header seals while it's off?

Lastly, this is a pretty good writeup, but I'm not quite sure why he's removing the water pump and draining the radiator yadda yadda. Necessary? http://www.600riders.com/forum/garage-mechanical-help/36548-how-replace-your-oil-pan.html

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The manual calls for 31 ft lbs on the oil drain plug. 12 ft lbs on the oil filter.

I think my problem was I didn't realize the torque wrench clicked but would continue to let you pull...for some reason I was thinking it would slip like a ratchet so you couldn't overdo it. I've used it before; guess it's just been too long.

The oil pan (#9) appears to come with the oil drain plug (#10) and drain plug gasket (#11), does that sound right? So I just need #9 and #12 (the pan gasket)?

What about #15, the dowel pins? Or any of the other o-rings/gaskets/parts etc I should swap out while it's out anyways? I guess I should do the exhaust header seals while it's off?

Lastly, this is a pretty good writeup, but I'm not quite sure why he's removing the water pump and draining the radiator yadda yadda. Necessary? http://www.600riders.com/forum/garage-mechanical-help/36548-how-replace-your-oil-pan.html

I know the manual calls for 30 ft lbs, same for the FJR. Its simply NOT NEEDED to be that tight and usually strips out. In the manual, it also calls for 72 ft bls of torque on the 6 rear sprocket nuts (which are bolted to screw in studs). This is way over kill, the nuts are self locking, obviously a typo. I wouldn't torque those beyond 35 ft lbs maybe...

I suspect Yamaha doesn't change the torque# as if they did, they'd be liable for ALL PREVIOUS DAMAGES/FIXES..

And yes, looking at the picture, the drain plug and washer are included. If you pick up a copper oil drain washer, it'll be the last one you buy as its re-usable. As for the alignment pin, you don't need new ones, (just make sure their installed when re-assembling). Exhaust gaskets, not a bad idea to replace them, if their in good shape, no blow by, you can get by without them.

IMHO, I would do the oil pan separatly/later, its going to get messy under the bike just doing that job with oil dripping from underneath the engine. Add coolant to the mix, your going to get real filthy under the bike. You want it very clean while the pan is off, any sand/crap blowing thru the garage could get stuck to the oily innerds of your engine.

The coolant change is very easy, maybe a half hour going slow and not nearly as messy as the oil pan.

 

[skooter65]

You are right, I was looking at the '06 by mistake. On my '05, MSRP is $168.49. Boats.net is $125.91.

Partzilla is only $93.74, minus 5% off with coupon code "meetsister". $9.39 FedEx ground shipping (not sure how much for expedited).

While I hate spending extra, I'd really hate waiting a few days to get a used part and find it doesn't fit, or has a non-visible defect, etc etc, if that makes sense..already bummed enough as it is. But I'll keep it in mind, thanks!

And I have had my headers off before, so hopefully they are somewhat loosened. Guess we'll find out.. Appreciate the input

Hopefully they are loose for you; I only say it from my experience with the few used FZ's I have purchased over the past few years.

Good luck with everything!

 

[CoolATIGuy]

I know the manual calls for 30 ft lbs, same for the FJR. Its simply NOT NEEDED to be that tight and usually strips out. In the manual, it also calls for 72 ft bls of torque on the 6 rear sprocket nuts (which are bolted to screw in studs). This is way over kill, the nuts are self locking, obviously a typo. I wouldn't torque those beyond 35 ft lbs maybe...

I suspect Yamaha doesn't change the torque# as if they did, they'd be liable for ALL PREVIOUS DAMAGES/FIXES..

And yes, looking at the picture, the drain plug and washer are included. If you pick up a copper oil drain washer, it'll be the last one you buy as its re-usable. As for the alignment pin, you don't need new ones, (just make sure their installed when re-assembling). Exhaust gaskets, not a bad idea to replace them, if their in good shape, no blow by, you can get by without them.

IMHO, I would do the oil pan separatly/later, its going to get messy under the bike just doing that job with oil dripping from underneath the engine. Add coolant to the mix, your going to get real filthy under the bike. You want it very clean while the pan is off, any sand/crap blowing thru the garage could get stuck to the oily innerds of your engine.

The coolant change is very easy, maybe a half hour going slow and not nearly as messy as the oil pan.

Thanks. I agree not doing the coolant change with it. I've changed that before as well. I don't know why he was removing the water pump and the reservoir etc etc for the oil pan job..

 

[CoolATIGuy]

Hopefully they are loose for you; I only say it from my experience with the few used FZ's I have purchased over the past few years.

Good luck with everything!

Thanks again. No offense towards your used part, I may still jump on it and if not me then someone should, I just don't know if this heart can take much more breaking. ;P

 

[redoliander]

I would call the company first to see if its in stock and how long will it take for you to get it, before purchasing it. Usually you order it from them. Then they order it from Yamaha. Sometimes it'll ship directly from Yamaha dealer or it gets shipped to who you bought it from then they ship it to you. Sometimes it can take a while to get it.

 

[CoolATIGuy]

I would call the company first to see if its in stock and how long will it take for you to get it, before purchasing it. Usually you order it from them. Then they order it from Yamaha. Sometimes it'll ship directly from Yamaha dealer or it gets shipped to who you bought it from then they ship it to you. Sometimes it can take a while to get it.

Good point. I was going to call anyways to get estimates on faster shipping. I'll have to remember to check on availability as well. Thanks.

 

[Tailgate]

Isn't it nice to be a member of the strip club?

 

[pester]

Sorry to hear man!

Hopefully a bit of good news for you though; I am parting out an 07' motor and may be able to save you a few bucks instead of buying new.

Drop me a PM if you are interested; I am tearing off a bunch of parts over this weekend.

Thank you!

Do you happen to have the front fairing?? Blue??

 

[FinalImpact]

Isn't it nice to be a member of the strip club?

Wise "Crack"!!!:BLAA:

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

A plumber bent over? :spank: