Air Injection System (AIS) removal - quick ?'s

philosopheriam

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I recently ordered some AIS block-off plates from a small fabricator called Roth Industries - the shop was highly reccomended on several Yamaha message boards.

Roth Industries — Smog Plates

IMGA0001_large.jpg


As soon as they arrive and I install them, I will let you know about the fit/finish.

My question is:
Will the FZ6's ECU set a trouble code when the AIS valve is disconnected? Thanks!
 
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If you leave the AIS valve plugged into the wire harness you'll be just fine, but if you unplug the AIS valve it throws a check engine light and the bike won't start, so disconnect the hoses, then remove the ports from the motor, install the new block off plates, wrap electrical tape around the hose fittings of the AIS valve, it has three fittings cover them all, don't forget the hose fitting on the air box as well, put every thing back together, start it up and go for a ride.:thumbup:
 
If you leave the AIS valve plugged into the wire harness you'll be just fine, but if you unplug the AIS valve it throws a check engine light and the bike won't start, so disconnect the hoses, then remove the ports from the motor, install the new block off plates, wrap electrical tape around the hose fittings of the AIS valve, it has three fittings cover them all, don't forget the hose fitting on the air box as well, put every thing back together, start it up and go for a ride.:thumbup:

Really - do you have first-hand experience with this??
 
Yes, I do have first hand experience, I blocked off my AIS the other day while I was doing other things under the tank.

I asked because I've heard conflicting information from multiple sources - a lot of people do this on FZ1's and don't have any problems when the AIS valve is completely removed.

Wasn't trying to be a dic* :)
 
UPDATE:

Been super busy and just got around to installing the AIS block-off plates from Roth industries.

The plates are well made and fit perfectly - the manufacturing quality is top-notch. The easiest way to complete this job is to remove the airbox and unbolt/move the battery box out of the way. All of the AIS components can then be accessed from the top of the bike - I was able to unbolt the AIS valve, remove all of the hoses, and install the block-off plates without a hitch. No need to move the radiator...

To prevent my bike from throwing a check engine light, I reconnected the AIS valve to the wiring harness, but I capped each port with 1/2" vinyl screw end protectors from Home Depot - they are gray, come 2 per bag, and are in the slide-out drawers located in the fastener aisle. Essentialy, these are nothing but 1/2" ID vinyl caps. They fit over the ports of the valve perfectly!

RESULTS:
1. No more popping upon decel!!!
2. Less crap by the valve cover, and more room to change spark plugs or adjust valves.
 
Nice. I went for the cheap 'plug the tube' method, leaving the rest intact. Great for warranty reasons :)

I wanted to add, because no one seems to have said it, that I believe it also adds to the performance of the bike as well as reducing popping. What I mean is that previously, the bike would slobber a bit not only on decel, but at the time when you were JUST below holding throttle on. So when you needed to then gun it, it would take a split second to clear its throat and then take off. After plugging my system, it is brutally smooth now and reacts that split second faster to a throttle input after decel or even just holding throttle.

Anyone else experienced this? I'm glad I tried it.
 
Are you sure it's not just you looking for a performance increase and thinking that's happening? I mean if you really feel it I believe you, but sometimes when I do a mod and want to feel the difference I trick myself into thinking it's different.

If the main reason to do this is just to remove the "popping", I'm not going to - to be honest, with my sexy TB exhaust I love the popping sound. It's music to my ears.
 
I'm certain. Due to my research and what I read on the forums, I expected zero performance gain. Just the removal of the popping. But it's immediately noticeable to me that it reacts quicker from off to on.

I go for my dyno tomorrow, can't wait :)
 
I was wondering, what popping is the one that you are talking about?

I have a 09 FZ6 S2 and i dont feel any popping, or maybe i do feel it but i dont know if it´s something that any other bike do too so i dont notice it.

What poppin is that?

and about the quick react, that maybe could fix the annoying jump from throttle off to partial throttle? is like a little jump with the engie that is a little anoying when you decelerates and accelerates again.

thanks
 
I was wondering, what popping is the one that you are talking about?

I have a 09 FZ6 S2 and i dont feel any popping, or maybe i do feel it but i dont know if it´s something that any other bike do too so i dont notice it.

What poppin is that?

and about the quick react, that maybe could fix the annoying jump from throttle off to partial throttle? is like a little jump with the engie that is a little anoying when you decelerates and accelerates again.

thanks

You won't notice the popping with the OEM exhaust. It' there, you just can't hear it because the stock exhaust muffles it so well.

Some throttle jerkiness is normal for this bike. You can however greatly reduce it by syncing your throttle bodies. After I synced mine, the bike was much smoother, and the deceleration exhaust popping almost completely disappeared.
 
I installed a set of block off plates a while ago. I don't remember the AIS system being attatched to any wiring, possibly that's just on 07+ models.
I still get a little popping just because my bike runs rich and has no cat.
 
if the bike ais is like a cars, it comes on at start up and the o2 sensor looks for a lean condition to test the system. if the exhaust does not lean out it sets check engine light. i am not sure how the bike monitors it though. i would not think it robs to much, is it electrical? if it is electrical it just pumps air into the exhaust from an air pump to help the cat work before the cat is properly warmed. if it is belt or gear driven then i can see it robbing power but otherwise it just helps with emissions until the cat is warm. seems as though it would not change much to me, once warm the system stops doing anything at least on late model cars. i am probably talking out my ass though since i only know cars, i am new to bikes, but i want to say an engine is an engine.

:confused:
 
if the bike ais is like a cars, it comes on at start up and the o2 sensor looks for a lean condition to test the system. if the exhaust does not lean out it sets check engine light. i am not sure how the bike monitors it though. i would not think it robs to much, is it electrical? if it is electrical it just pumps air into the exhaust from an air pump to help the cat work before the cat is properly warmed. if it is belt or gear driven then i can see it robbing power but otherwise it just helps with emissions until the cat is warm. seems as though it would not change much to me, once warm the system stops doing anything at least on late model cars. i am probably talking out my ass though since i only know cars, i am new to bikes, but i want to say an engine is an engine.

:confused:

The AIS on our bikes has no air pump, it relies on vacuum in the exhaust port to draw air in vs. vorced air by a pump. The goal of the system is similar to cars though...provide excess-air so that any unburned fuel in the exhaust stream is burned esp. at cold start or idle. This is good for emissions and also good for the health of the catalytic converter.

I'm not sure how removing the system is going to make any performance gains. Granted on a race bike it eliminates some weight and components and there may be some thermal advantages. I suppose that by removing it you'll be affecting what the O2 sensor sees at certain conditions, which may cause a fuel trim shift on 2007+ bikes. It is probable that the O2 sensor is ignored when AIS is commanded active though...so maybe no change there.

I don't think it does a test (like downstream O2 monitoring) other than a continuity check on the solenoid. That is more of a OBD2 requirement for cars.

*EDIT* I reviewed the error code table for a 2007, and do not see one listed for AIS solenoid. So, it may be possible to simply disconnnect it if you are so inclined and not see a fault code.
There is only an output test listed:

48 AI system solenoid
Actuates the AI system solenoid
for five times every second.

Illuminates the engine trouble
warning light.

Check the operating sound
of the AI system solenoid
five times.
 
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You won't notice the popping with the OEM exhaust. It' there, you just can't hear it because the stock exhaust muffles it so well.

Some throttle jerkiness is normal for this bike. You can however greatly reduce it by syncing your throttle bodies. After I synced mine, the bike was much smoother, and the deceleration exhaust popping almost completely disappeared.
n00b question, how do I do this?
 
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