Adding engine oil

[Rookie08FZ6]

Hi:

I got a new 08 FZ6 about a week back. I checked the engine oil and it seemed a bit low. I have about 150 miles on it and was wondering if I could add Valvoline motorcycle 4stroke 20W-50 oil to it?

Appreciate your help.

-Thanks

 

[HavBlue]

Sure, why not. I use the Mobil1 15w50 and it isn't even motorcycle specific.

 

[wrightme43]

You also may consider changing the oil early and the filter. My oil was silver and full of metal flake at 250 miles.

 

[FZ1inNH]

You also may consider changing the oil early and the filter. My oil was silver and full of metal flake at 250 miles.

I broke mine in and changed after 75 miles. Changing again after 600 miles then at 1500 miles, the Klotz goes in.

To the OP, if your oil is low after so few miles, I'd be visiting the dealer and asking a lot of questions. Not normal unless you babied it too much on those first miles, then the rings didn't seat right and your buring the oil now.

 

[VEGASRIDER]

To the OP, if your oil is low after so few miles, I'd be visiting the dealer and asking a lot of questions. Not normal unless you babied it too much on those first miles, then the rings didn't seat right and your buring the oil now.

I had to add some oil to my bike when I first got my bike. But after it was broken in and had it's first or second change, my bike doesnt' even use a drop of a oil even after 3000 miles.

 

[Rookie08FZ6]

Thanks a lot for all your help. I am going to add some and then talk to the dealer about it.

-cheers

 

[FZ1inNH]

I had to add some oil to my bike when I first got my bike. But after it was broken in and had it's first or second change, my bike doesnt' even use a drop of a oil even after 3000 miles.

Good point. I'm different and break in all my engines using a different manner and always change at 75 miles or before thus I wouldn't know if it used oil or not.

The principle I use is based on how racers break in an engine. The rings yield 7 - 10 lbs of force on the cylinder walls and rely on the pressure from combustion to increase the pressure with force behind the rings using the ring gaps. Thus, to properly cut the rings into the cylinders and smooth the factory cross-hatch, you increase the pressure. This means in the first 20 - 25 miles, it's a constant load on the rings by using heavy acceleration/deceleration but not going over the 7K RPMs. Typically 1st, 2nd and a bit of 3rd. Changing the oil and filter early is to get rid of the metal flakes coming from the cylinders before your bearings become aluminized. This means the metal flakes adhere to the hot surfaces of steel and bearings inside the engine. I've posted a specific link a couple of time that backs up this proven method and I myself have never lost an engine in the life of a vehicle doing so thus I feel, in my opinion, this is great advice to follow. YMMV if you do not use this method properly.