Nappa
Member
Can you legally get that titled? Wouldn't there be records showing who owned it before it was abandoned?
I'm all for it if you can, just wondering.
I'm all for it if you can, just wondering.
-
Welcome to the Yamaha FZ6 Forums. Member registration disables ads and allows you to post and share. Register Here.
88' Fz600 Abandoned for 13 years, Roars to life
- Thread starter uvangoey
- Start date
uvangoey
Junior Member
I will definately keep that in mind if these other coils dont work better.
The first time i started the bike, it was leaking gray oil, and it scared the **** out of me because ive blown a few head gaskets an know grey oil is not the best of signs Lol.
But the more i run it the less there generally is, and its just black now.
Could this have something to do with me finding it on its side?
It was sitting on the left side, so i doubt it but maby.
As to getting the title, i think the fastest most hassle free way would be having my friend who does repossession and repairs to put a mechanics lean on it and have him transfer it to me. :thumbup: its never been reported stolen, and only had 13000 on the last title, and i found it with 15
Like i said earlier, i already ran a vin check and surprisingly its never been reported stolen. So i should be in the clear.
My backup plan is if i absolutely cant get it titled, ill use the engine to make a nasty shiftier cart
But its such a beautiful bike i don't want to ruin it Lol
Im running electrolysis on the gas tank as we speak, so ill post photos of the progress tonight.
Any idea where i can get those boots?
I cant find them on ebay :/
The first time i started the bike, it was leaking gray oil, and it scared the **** out of me because ive blown a few head gaskets an know grey oil is not the best of signs Lol.
But the more i run it the less there generally is, and its just black now.
Could this have something to do with me finding it on its side?
It was sitting on the left side, so i doubt it but maby.
As to getting the title, i think the fastest most hassle free way would be having my friend who does repossession and repairs to put a mechanics lean on it and have him transfer it to me. :thumbup: its never been reported stolen, and only had 13000 on the last title, and i found it with 15
Like i said earlier, i already ran a vin check and surprisingly its never been reported stolen. So i should be in the clear.
My backup plan is if i absolutely cant get it titled, ill use the engine to make a nasty shiftier cart
But its such a beautiful bike i don't want to ruin it LolIm running electrolysis on the gas tank as we speak, so ill post photos of the progress tonight.
Any idea where i can get those boots?
I cant find them on ebay :/
- Joined
- Feb 7, 2009
- Messages
- 12,920
- Reaction score
- 1,725
- Points
- 113
- Location
- Cape Coral, Florida, USA
I checked on a couple of Yamaha parts websites but can't find the boots even listed. You may try checking with your local dealer and see if their available. I'd bet the boots were used on other Yamaha engines as well back in the day..
As for the oil coming out the muffler, yes, if the bike laid on its side for awhile, oil can leak past the rings and get into the exhaust.
If your feeling really industrious, pull the header from the head (there's a very good possibility of breaking a retaining stud so use some sort of rust breaker) and look into both the head and into each of the header pipes.
If there's that much oil, it should be noticable. Valve seals in the head, when worn, generally allow oil past them overnight (start up is real smoky) until their really worn and will smoke constantly... They'll also be a bunch of carbon build up both in the ports and on the valve stem itself.
Feel free to (after making sure the valves are closed), gently scrape away any large deposites of carbon build up. Any cylinder with excessive carbon build up (more than the others) is telling you somethings wrong with that cylinder, etc...
This link will show the parts fisch for your bike. Besides parts, it helps with showing how the bike is assembled, especially if you don't have a shop manual: http://www.yamaha-motor.com/partviewer/default.aspx?ls=sport
As for the oil coming out the muffler, yes, if the bike laid on its side for awhile, oil can leak past the rings and get into the exhaust.
If your feeling really industrious, pull the header from the head (there's a very good possibility of breaking a retaining stud so use some sort of rust breaker) and look into both the head and into each of the header pipes.
If there's that much oil, it should be noticable. Valve seals in the head, when worn, generally allow oil past them overnight (start up is real smoky) until their really worn and will smoke constantly... They'll also be a bunch of carbon build up both in the ports and on the valve stem itself.
Feel free to (after making sure the valves are closed), gently scrape away any large deposites of carbon build up. Any cylinder with excessive carbon build up (more than the others) is telling you somethings wrong with that cylinder, etc...
This link will show the parts fisch for your bike. Besides parts, it helps with showing how the bike is assembled, especially if you don't have a shop manual: http://www.yamaha-motor.com/partviewer/default.aspx?ls=sport
Last edited:
uvangoey
Junior Member
Yea, removing the exaust was going to be my next step, but its raining today, so ill have to wait until later :/
Im guess while I'm waiting i can post those photos.
Im guess while I'm waiting i can post those photos.
- Joined
- Feb 7, 2009
- Messages
- 12,920
- Reaction score
- 1,725
- Points
- 113
- Location
- Cape Coral, Florida, USA
Be REAL GENTLE with the nuts/studs and use lots of lubricant. If they don't budge, you WILL SNAP A STUD. Working it back and forth, some heat usually helps..
If still stuck, IMHO, I'd cut the nut off and clean up the stud or at least have something left to grab onto if you need to replace them..
If still stuck, IMHO, I'd cut the nut off and clean up the stud or at least have something left to grab onto if you need to replace them..
uvangoey
Junior Member
Here's the process.
I'm sure you all know it already, but i will point out on thing, the charger is brand new, i just bought it from O'Riley today like that :/ Only the 2 amp works. but i guess it will make it that much easier to return it. Lol
Its been running for maby 6-7 hours and this is where its at.
I'm sure you all know it already, but i will point out on thing, the charger is brand new, i just bought it from O'Riley today like that :/ Only the 2 amp works. but i guess it will make it that much easier to return it. Lol
Its been running for maby 6-7 hours and this is where its at.
uvangoey
Junior Member
Ive allready had it off once to get to the oil filter(I still cant beleive i had to take the exaust off to get to it). Everything came off pretty smooth. Only one nut stuck to the stud, but the stud just unscrewed so no problems
pookamatic
Junior Member
Even with a good compression test, there could be blowby. I'd remove the muffler first as noted just to eliminate that variable.
uvangoey
Junior Member
Im going to do that when I get back home. Im on my way out to get that ir tester and some other tools. Ill post photos when its done.
When I ran that compression test, the first rev on each cylinder read about 30-40 before getting up to the final reading. I know if its low at first its not as good, but is that bad?
When I ran that compression test, the first rev on each cylinder read about 30-40 before getting up to the final reading. I know if its low at first its not as good, but is that bad?
Last edited:
- Joined
- Feb 7, 2009
- Messages
- 12,920
- Reaction score
- 1,725
- Points
- 113
- Location
- Cape Coral, Florida, USA
If it had been sitting when you got that 30-40 PSI, I'd say it might be the oil getting pumped up to the pistons/rings, valves starting to close fully, etc. YOU should hold the throttle WIDE OPEN when cranking and getting your compression numbers too...
With the higher range PSI you have now, you may have blow by but at least its high. You can do a leak down test (I've never done one, do a search, it'll give you an idea of the condition of the rings/valves, etc.).
BTW, that tank looks BADDDDDD.... Good luck getting it clean. It needs to be spotless. If any of those rust particles make it to the carbs, it'll run crappy. Amazing the bike cranked up at all!!!
With the higher range PSI you have now, you may have blow by but at least its high. You can do a leak down test (I've never done one, do a search, it'll give you an idea of the condition of the rings/valves, etc.).
BTW, that tank looks BADDDDDD.... Good luck getting it clean. It needs to be spotless. If any of those rust particles make it to the carbs, it'll run crappy. Amazing the bike cranked up at all!!!
- Joined
- Feb 7, 2009
- Messages
- 12,920
- Reaction score
- 1,725
- Points
- 113
- Location
- Cape Coral, Florida, USA
BTW, what fluid do you use in the tank when doing your tank cleaning process? Does the bike chain in the tank attract the rust?
The one tank we had to do we just used chemicals...
The one tank we had to do we just used chemicals...
uvangoey
Junior Member
Im using a water and baking soda solution, i wanted to do electrolysis because the rust is so bad, i didnt want to risk burning a hole with any acids or anything.
Basically you just fill the tank with water and i used a little over a half cup of baking soda. And hook a battery charger neg. to the tank, and hang a peice of steel attached to the pos. in the tank. it pulls all the rust off and takes it to your piece of whatever. and when all the rust is gone, it stops so there's no risk of messing the tank up. im going to run some prep and ech threw it to make sure i got everything, then POR15 it to make sure it doesn't come back. Ill defiantly be installing an in line fuel filter though just in case.
I used the chain just to see what happens, i have a 7/8 flat wood drill bit with a hanger wrapped around it in there now, well see how that works
You should have seen the carbs, everything was stuck and glued from the varnish. Im pretty sure im going to need a new pea**** and fuel sensor also though. Ill see what i can do with the sensor, but i doubt i can fix it.
Also, took of the exhaust again, the camera wast taking good photos but there wasnt any oil or wet spots, one had a little grease spot, but it wasn't anything
Basically you just fill the tank with water and i used a little over a half cup of baking soda. And hook a battery charger neg. to the tank, and hang a peice of steel attached to the pos. in the tank. it pulls all the rust off and takes it to your piece of whatever. and when all the rust is gone, it stops so there's no risk of messing the tank up. im going to run some prep and ech threw it to make sure i got everything, then POR15 it to make sure it doesn't come back. Ill defiantly be installing an in line fuel filter though just in case.
I used the chain just to see what happens, i have a 7/8 flat wood drill bit with a hanger wrapped around it in there now, well see how that works
You should have seen the carbs, everything was stuck and glued from the varnish. Im pretty sure im going to need a new pea**** and fuel sensor also though. Ill see what i can do with the sensor, but i doubt i can fix it.
Also, took of the exhaust again, the camera wast taking good photos but there wasnt any oil or wet spots, one had a little grease spot, but it wasn't anything
Last edited:
- Joined
- Feb 7, 2009
- Messages
- 12,920
- Reaction score
- 1,725
- Points
- 113
- Location
- Cape Coral, Florida, USA
Interesting, never done that before. If possible, once done, please post a picture, just out of curiosity...
uvangoey
Junior Member
Here's after 12 hours...
The last photo is the new anode I'm going to use, i already used it for about an hour, but I'm going to just let this one go overnight and see what happens.
The last photo is the new anode I'm going to use, i already used it for about an hour, but I'm going to just let this one go overnight and see what happens.
uvangoey
Junior Member
Just found The intake boots. $60 new
- Joined
- Feb 7, 2009
- Messages
- 12,920
- Reaction score
- 1,725
- Points
- 113
- Location
- Cape Coral, Florida, USA
That is amazing!!!!
uvangoey
Junior Member
I ended up using a coat hanger wrapped around a Co2 can, and it worked pretty well.
uvangoey
Junior Member
For some reason, its just decided it doesnt want to start for me anymore. Im pretty sure im not getting spark. I hope its not the CDI :/
Check the plugs - with that much crap coming out of the exhaust, I'd suggest your plugs are oiled up.
If you can get it started, and you get the carburettor boots, I reckon it just needs a good fang.
At least for long enough to get to running temperature for an extended period.
Starting it for a couple of mins until that drink bottle empties isn't doing it any good.
Cheers,
Rick
If you can get it started, and you get the carburettor boots, I reckon it just needs a good fang.
At least for long enough to get to running temperature for an extended period.
Starting it for a couple of mins until that drink bottle empties isn't doing it any good.
Cheers,
Rick
uvangoey
Junior Member
What does fang mean??
