520 conversion?

[CowtownBiomed]

No you don't Guitar Man, you just need the tools to break it and re-rivet it back on.
No shop worth its salt will pull your swing arm to change a chain.

This is what I use. Works wonderful, even on cam chains.

Motion Pro Chain Breaker, Press and Riveting Tool - Street Motorcycle - Motorcycle Superstore

 

[Motogiro]

No you don't Guitar Man, you just need the tools to break it and re-rivet it back on.
No shop worth its salt will pull your swing arm to change a chain.

I agree ^^^^
This is what I use. Works wonderful, even on cam chains.

Motion Pro Chain Breaker, Press and Riveting Tool - Street Motorcycle - Motorcycle Superstore

You can get this kit on sale ($39) ever so often from Cycle Gear and it works great for me. STOCKTON TOOL COMPANY Parts & Accessories - Chain Breaker and Rivet Tool Kit - Cycle Gear

A quality chain with the rivet tool work great. You just need to pay attention to how you use these tools. I wouldn't trust one of those snap on clips though.

 

[CowtownBiomed]

Meh..I've used all types over the years, including the clips style, never had one fail yet..:thumbup:

The trick to the tools, is to practice on your old chain, before you try on a new one. (especialy important on cam chains)
After a few breaks and rivets (on the old chain) you learn what presure is required to break it, AND rivet it back without binding.

You have to remember too, that endless chains were not created that way..:BLAA:


Edit, that is the same kit, even the case is the same.

 

[Chaotic29]

haha An angle grinder works great for getting the riveted continous chains off. (better than taking the swingarm almost off)

I did a 520 conversion and i like it. didnt buy the tool and took it to a friends shop to get it re-riveted for $5.

 

[rs117]

haha An angle grinder works great for getting the riveted continous chains off. (better than taking the swingarm almost off)

:thumbup:
lol for sure
for what it is worth I did the 520 coversion with DID and Super Sprox on my
Z1000.. dynoed at 129 & 87 to the rear wheel. After 12,000 miles they still looked new. A maintained good quality set up is lighter and will last just as long so a win win IMO :rockon:.

 

[Chaotic29]

I also did the 520 chain conversion, with a DID X ring chain but i stuck to steel sprockets with the stock tooth counts.

I noticed a difference when i first did it but i dont remember how much different it was, so if anything it was a minor change.(coulda been in my head to.)

One thing i have noticed with the chain conversion is that the 520, which is a thinner chain, does not throw nearly any grime on the bike compared to the 530 which flung crap all over everything :don'tknow:

edit: 6K miles on the 520 chain and only adjusted it once since the first time when i put it on.

 

[iviyth0s]

haha An angle grinder works great for getting the riveted continous chains off. (better than taking the swingarm almost off)

I did a 520 conversion and i like it. didnt buy the tool and took it to a friends shop to get it re-riveted for $5.

Haha hell yeah, we used my dad's recip. to cut my Ninja 250's OEM one (lasted until 15200mi before it was stretching every 100 miles) I don't know how the last two owners treated it but I never lubed it once since my ownership of it from 6800mi until now. So maybe it may have lasted longer or maybe not.

Now it's got an RK O-Ring chain and JT Sprockets front and back (15T up from 14T in the front for taller gearing and better mileage)

We used a generic chain tool from Harbor Freight and got it together, not riveted though (it must have been an older chain from their stock because it came with two clip on master link holders and I heard all the most recent ones come with the rivet style master links). I know rivets are safer but in theory it shouldn't have much force side to side that would put excessive pressure on the clip...and plus I might sell the bike soon anyway since I have my FZ now

I also did the 520 chain conversion, with a DID X ring chain but i stuck to steel sprockets with the stock tooth counts.

I noticed a difference when i first did it but i dont remember how much different it was, so if anything it was a minor change.(coulda been in my head to.)

One thing i have noticed with the chain conversion is that the 520, which is a thinner chain, does not throw nearly any grime on the bike compared to the 530 which flung crap all over everything :don'tknow:

edit: 6K miles on the 520 chain and only adjusted it once since the first time when i put it on.

When did you have to adjust it and how much did it loosen up?

 

[Lefty]

I went with an RK X-ring gold chain along with steel Sunstar sprockets in original sizing. So far so good!:thumbup:

Went this route this spring except for a 17T front. Very happy with this choice. :thumbup:

 

[chunkygoat]

I'd say go for the 520 conversion - its easy to install, and if you don't like it, you can always revert back to OEM.

I did the 520 conversion about 2 years ago. I have a 16T front sprocket, a 47T rear sprocket, and the Pro Series DID Gold Chain. I can vouch that there is absolutely a profoundly noticeable difference as compared to the stock setup. As far as the decreased weight from the 520 width sprockets - I do not entirely notice the difference in this regard. However, the added teeth to the rear sprocket (as well as the subtracted teeth from the front) makes a tremendous difference in where your powerband is on the RPM plot.

The powerband shifts down, I would say, to the 5,000 - 10,000 RPM range as compared to starting at about 7,000RPMs with the stock setup. The roll on is great in any gear after performing the conversion - the powerband is much more realistically usable. Since the powerband is shifted, acceleration is always there - when you need it.

The ONLY negative effects I can truly note, is that your gas mileage will suffer pretty substantially, especially if you do a large amount of highway riding. Taking it easy on the throttle - I've recorded a maximum of about 195 miles per tank - a whopping 70 miles less a tank as compared to without the 520 conversion. You can also expect to shave about 15mph off your top speed.

I would say you have weigh your options - if gas efficiency is your goal, my suggestion is to stay stock. I personally don't mind the decrease in fuel efficiency because the feel of having the powerband at your fingertips, in whatever gear you are in - adds a tremendous sense of control and agility. I really enjoy the conversion, even though the cost may seem high at times in regard to fuel consumption.

I sometimes debate reverting back to 530 stock setup, but as it sits now - I haven't committed. I still enjoy my 520 setup, 2 years later.

 

[motojoe122]

I did the 520 swap not to long ago too, I could feel the difference right away. I can only imagine the difference with the tooth change. Not sure if I want to do -1 in the front or +1 in the rear.

 

[Carlos840]

I would not bother going +1 in the rear alone.

Since +3 in the rear is more or less equivalent to -1 in the front, going +1 in the rear will be so negligible it will not change anything.

If you check things out on Gearing Commander you will see that at 70mph in 6th there is a 120 rpm difference between stock and 15/47! i doubt that changes much.

Gearing Commander: Motorcycle Speed, RPM, Chain & Sprockets Calculator

I run -1 in the front and have to say it is at the top of my mod list! It makes the bike a lot more fun, a lot more available power, it's great!
The only downside is that your mileage will get hurt, and you will end up cruising at 8000rpm, which some people don't like.
Personally i have ridden hundreds of miles keeping the revs at 8000rpm and higher and the bike never seemed to care.

I am about to instal a +2 sprocket in the rear, just to see what that feels like!

 

[iviyth0s]

I would not bother going +1 in the rear alone.

Since +3 in the rear is more or less equivalent to -1 in the front, going +1 in the rear will be so negligible it will not change anything.

If you check things out on Gearing Commander you will see that at 70mph in 6th there is a 120 rpm difference between stock and 15/47! i doubt that changes much.

Gearing Commander: Motorcycle Speed, RPM, Chain & Sprockets Calculator

I run -1 in the front and have to say it is at the top of my mod list! It makes the bike a lot more fun, a lot more available power, it's great!
The only downside is that your mileage will get hurt, and you will end up cruising at 8000rpm, which some people don't like.
Personally i have ridden hundreds of miles keeping the revs at 8000rpm and higher and the bike never seemed to care.

I am about to instal a +2 sprocket in the rear, just to see what that feels like!

I feel like I'd want to lower the front and rear so there're driveline weight savings, like 11/33 with a big speedometer adjustment to restore accuracy.
It's a close ratio to 15/46 but with less weight!

 

[Carlos840]

I feel like I'd want to lower the front and rear so there're driveline weight savings, like 11/33 with a big speedometer adjustment to restore accuracy.
It's a close ratio to 15/46 but with less weight!

I am by no means an expert in chains, but i am afraid that would not be a great idea!
I remember reading that the less teeth you have on a sprocket the less teeth are in contact with the chain at any given moment. Meaning things are weaker.

Also, you would end up having a lot smaller diameter of sprockets, smaller diameter means the chain has to wrap around something a lot smaller which apparently causes a lot more wear...

Considering the amount of weight you would save i am not sure it is worth it when you could just go with a 520 chain and aluminium sprockets.

 

[iviyth0s]

I am by no means an expert in chains, but i am afraid that would not be a great idea!
I remember reading that the less teeth you have on a sprocket the less teeth are in contact with the chain at any given moment. Meaning things are weaker.

Also, you would end up having a lot smaller diameter of sprockets, smaller diameter means the chain has to wrap around something a lot smaller which apparently causes a lot more wear...

Considering the amount of weight you would save i am not sure it is worth it when you could just go with a 520 chain and aluminium sprockets.

It's reasons like these that I wish we'd just standardize belt drive lol

Inherently quieter and lighter weight, and IF it snaps, you won't lose half your leg or the bike.

 

[Themadclowns]

First chain and sprocket kit I put on was a 520 conversion, vortex aluminum rear sprocket ( +1 tooth ) with steel front sprocket and an RK x-ring chain. Rear sprocket died after about 8k miles (aluminum much?), and chain died after about 15k. After that set I went back to the 530 steel OEM sprockets (still +1 tooth) and RK x-ring chain and haven't looked back. First set of OEM sprockets and chain went 23k miles. Very happy with the setup.

In my opinion, because there is less bulk to the 520, it seemed to wear out faster, and that with very little noticeable difference is performance for my street riding style.

Also, since i run +1 in the back i guess I should give my opinion on this. It is a noticeable difference, but it isn't huge. It was enough for me to say "hey! that is a bit more snap!" off the line, but not life changing at all. My speedo reads 1 mph faster per 10 mph with +1 than it did. so when my speedo says 77, i am really going 70 (I know... speedo healer... too lazy when i can do the conversion in my head very quickly...)

The reason I did not make the front sprocket smaller is because I was told (and mechanically i could buy this) that making a rear sprocket bigger is easier on your chain than making the tiny front one even smaller, more movement on the chain joints with a smaller circle I guess. Not an expert on this, but this kind of made sense to me.

Lol Just read a couple posts above mine +1 to what carlos said!