4000 Mile Maintenance

[thisisbenji]

So my bike is getting close to hitting that 4,000 mile mark, (can't believe I'v put 3,000 miles on it in less than two months), and I have some questions about the maintenance schedule.

There's a few things I can take care of myself such as changing the oil, checking the air filter, exhaust for leaks, and chain. But I'm not comfortable doing things such as checking the spark plug gap, fuel lines, cables, different points that need to be lubed, synchronization, etc.

With this in mind I'v been thinking about taking the bike in to a shop to have some things done.

Will the shop actually go into detail checking the items listed in the manual or will they just give the bike a quick once over?

Also the manual states that brake lines should be changed every four years ,(my bike is a 2009 with stock lines and fluid), should I have mine changed out?

Is it possible for the fuel injection sync to be off with this few miles?
(My previous Ninja 250R had all sorts of carb. problems by 5,000 miles).

What kind of experiences has everyone here had with the 4,000 mi service?

Best,
Benji

 

[SweaterDude]

nothing should be wrong other than needing to change the oil and filter. maybe change the coolant as well.

if you want to go ahead and put some better rubber on the bike (i would) then you can do that too. those stock Dunlops suck and after about 4800 miles i had the front wash on me BIG. scared the crap out of me....

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Unless the bike sits in the sun all day, the brake lines generally last considerably longer, at least 4-5+ years. Should you decide to replace them(its really likely NOT necessary- check for any cracking, etc), go with SS braided lines. Thier cheaper and work considerably better.

Re syncing, it can't hurt but with that low mileage, if your not getting any bothersome vibrations thru the bars, seat, your sync is likely fine. Down the road, as you become familiar with the bike, pick up a sync tool. Its cheaper than Yamaha doing it ONCE, and you can fine tune the sync (not difficult at all). Yamaha allows 10mm's variance, you can get it MUCH closer with a little bit of playing/adjusting.

Keep the chain clean and lubed, lube the clutch cable too as it tends to get harder over to pull over time (as the lube drys out, water gets in, etc)..

If anything, check your front brakes. The seals in the calipers tend to harden up and ft brakes drag over time. I've found 4-5 years max before they need replacement. You should get at least 3/4 a turn with a full hard spin, by hand. If it stops almost immediatly, your likely due for seals. You can also check them by stopping quickly with the rear brake ONLY. Then feel the front rotors. They should be cool-cold. If their very warm-hot, their NOT RELEASING fully and likely due for new seals.

Do a search, there's numerous threads with good information/pic's. :thumbup:

 

[thisisbenji]

Thanks for the tips.

The bike does need new rubber (not because of wear, but because of cracking). I still have the stock BT-020 tires. I think I'm going to wait a little longer though. I don't ride too aggressively and they seem to be doing okay.

I did a google search and found a video of the synchronization. Doesn't look too hard, maybe I'll invest in the tool. The bike has been start to vibrate a little more within the last 200 miles or so.

I think I'm going to attempt to check the plugs myself as well. I have no idea what I'm looking for, but the service manual says what they should be. I also live with a auto mechanic so it can't be that much different.

The brakes seem to have a little bit of pulsing when under hard braking. I'm not sure if that is normal or not. At any rate I might have the local shop put SS lines on the bike and check over the braking system.

I think I'm going to take baby steps learning this motorcycle maintenance thing. One new job at a time.

 

[iSteve]

Cracking tires would be the only think I'd be worried about right now. Of course change the oil and filter but tires should be your concern. I have 21000 miles on mine and the only things I've changed is tires twice, brake lines (made no difference) Rear brake pads (the stock ones made a lot of dust) Clutch cable, air filter, Spark plugs at 13000 (they were still like new) And of course oil/filter every 3 to 4k. Oh yeah I sync the throttle bodies every now and then never been out of spec but I get them almost perfect just because.

Tires most important, a bad plug won't slide you off a cliff.

 

[thisisbenji]

Well it's a good thing I don't ride by any cliffs!

The cracks are very minor and are not on the sidewalls. In fact, the tires are still softer than the IRCs I had on my last bike.

 

[deeptekkie]

I use Armor All on many rubber, non-friction surfaces. It blocks UV rays and protects anything rubber. I've used it for years now on cars, bikes and scuba equipment.
(If this is a shameless plug please forgive me =:-O

 

[deeptekkie]

I recently passed 4K and I just run it! I keep the oil clean, the tires gaged, the chain lubed and the tank full.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I use Armor All on many rubber, non-friction surfaces. It blocks UV rays and protects anything rubber. I've used it for years now on cars, bikes and scuba equipment.
(If this is a shameless plug please forgive me =:-O

Just an FYI, what I found using "Armor All" years ago.

I used it on the sidewalls of the tires (besides some other parts) of my Kawasaki KLR 250 beater. It literally dry rotted the side walls of the tires, (cracking big time) with plenty of tread left. The bike did not sit outside in the sun (since sold it). I couldn't figure out why the sidewalls were SOOO BAD when the rest of the tire was in excellent shape..

Some research into the contents and I discovered that anything with petroleum distillates (sp?) is the worst thing you can put on rubber, especially tires...

Additionally, about two years ago, I spoke to a trailer tire manufacturer tech about the best maintainance for the smaller trailer tire(which I have on my MC trailer). He said soap and water, nothing with P.D. on the tires...

 

[lkea]

What you can do is to scout for local shops that can help you in your maintenance need. Than once you find a shop that is honest and reliable, you can make a check list of your own about your bikes needs and specific attention, you can also add this with their own check list, so that your bike will be thoroughly inspected.