2 sets of mirrors on FZ6?

[raja777m]

done oil change, oil is below supertech HD-30, not rotella. And the filter is purator.
I went to mechanic, he charged me 25$ for 3 qt of oil and the change included.
he used his torque wrench to tighten the builds, which taught me, it's not shake, but Wobbleness in my handle bar.
which leads to steering damper or removing--tightening--re-greasing of the stem or I could be wrong.
I found out, my rear right turn signal broke, looking for China led products,
One more silly question in this silly post, does front signals fit the rear? As they are bigger and brighter, I like a pair in the rear too.

I'm Looking for that recent thread on engine sound, I couldn't find it, but here is mine after oil change.
https://youtu.be/YXtGTj0HkIs

I've added a 10oz of techro fuel system cleaning for a full tank of premium today.

 

[beatle]

Single viscosity oil like that is typically used in small engines like lawnmowers where the operating conditions are pretty constant. I think 10w30 or 20w40 is what the manual calls for. Though you're not likely to damage your engine with SAE30 oil, Rotella T6 5w40 is a good oil, cheap, and available just about everywhere. I'm curious if you notice any difference in how the bike shifts, however.

 

[raja777m]

Single viscosity oil like that is typically used in small engines like lawnmowers where the operating conditions are pretty constant. I think 10w30 or 20w40 is what the manual calls for. Though you're not likely to damage your engine with SAE30 oil, Rotella T6 5w40 is a good oil, cheap, and available just about everywhere. I'm curious if you notice any difference in how the bike shifts, however.

As of now, it shifts normally, and I've uploaded the video of the engine sound, after the 31 miles after an oil change.
I should've chosen T6, next time. The mechanic already has the bottles with him by the time I went there and I didn't mention I'll be visiting him yesterday for an oil change.
May change this oil within 3k miles for this time. I'll keep an eye on the oil and sound.

 

[raja777m]

I'm curious if you notice any difference in how the bike shifts, however.

It's 110 miles after the oil change, premium fuel with 10oz of Techron, the bike shifts normally, no surprises. And my first gear clunk is kind of still there (I didn't notice this morning or yesterday) even after a fresh oil change (I engage full clutch always, and wait for 5 seconds before going to first gear for the first time of the day).

But this is way before the oil change,
Cold morning start is fine, the bike runs smooth as soon as I wait until the RPM goes down from 1800RPM(when I start the engine) to 800 RPM (standard idle), but the same '1800 to 800' process after sitting for 10 hrs at my work place (ground floor garage parking), the bike jerks for first few 100's of meters and after that, it behaves like nothing had happened.
Monday I'll make a video out of it.

 

[beatle]

A 900rpm idle is too low. Should be ~1300rpm once the bike is at operating temperature.

 

[raja777m]

A 900rpm idle is too low. Should be ~1300rpm once the bike is at operating temperature.

Okay, I'll get it changed, previously it was set by the previous owner.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I have mine just over a thousand RPM's's at temp (and its still charging).

A bit (almost nill actually) less shifter clunk, more engine braking and cold idle is maybe ,1300.

Here's my engine/bike on a cold start, and eventual warm up (with the charging voltages), dual headlight as well; https://www.flickr.com/photos/127092600@N08/


I don't know why you would have such a large difference in idling cold and hot idle...There really shouldn't be much difference, (Unless its really cold there)..

 

[raja777m]

pdate:

Went to FZ09 forum, to pick up OEM for cheap. to convert to handlebar mirrors.
I found the mounts for 5$, now need a find a pair of OEM mirrors set, sent pm to few people from sale section in FZ09.org
Did any one tried this before? is that a good idea?
Do I need to move the brake reservoir or the right mirror will have an extended arm?
My handlebar is a bit crowded..

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

pdate:

Went to FZ09 forum, to pick up OEM for cheap. to convert to handlebar mirrors.
I found the mounts for 5$, now need a find a pair of OEM mirrors set, sent pm to few people from sale section in FZ09.org
Did any one tried this before? is that a good idea?
Do I need to move the brake reservoir or the right mirror will have an extended arm?
My handlebar is a bit crowded..

The right side brake perch does have an area for a stalk mirror, however, its NOT drilled and threaded..

I believe it left hand threaded(opposite of the norm) so you'd need (after confirming with the mirror in hand) to drill and tap AFTER FINDING/ordering a left handed tap.

And no, there's really not any extra room (if any) on the handle bars...



You might look at the 09's set up and use their brake perch/and mirror mount (if that's what they use stock).

Much easier and cheaper if so...

 

[drumbum]

I actually have my two mirrors set up slightly differently. My right mirror is set up so I can see behind me when sitting upright. My left one is set slightly lower so when I'm tucked in I just raise my head a tiny bit and can see behind me. I can still see out of my left mirror when sitting upright, it's just angled lower than the right one. If it was angled 100% correctly for crouched position I only see the road next to my rear tire when sitting upright. So I made that little compromise.

I don't know where you live, but if you are live where splitting is legal I would recommend sticking to the stock mirrors. Bar end ones are wider which is never really good. Some may say the yamaha ones are big and get in the way, and yeah, I will admit that's true, but then you also have to remember the yamaha ones flip in sooooo easily. Sometimes when traffic is bad and there isn't much gap I just flip them back, super easy, and then once I get passed the car that was in the way, I just flip the mirror back up. And it's in the same exact place, since the mirror "clicks" into position. My kawasakis never did that. Pulling them out of the way was hard, and then they didn't snap back into place, it was a meticulous process to get them angled again, Just my 02 cents

 

[raja777m]

I actually have my two mirrors set up slightly differently. My right mirror is set up so I can see behind me when sitting upright. My left one is set slightly lower so when I'm tucked in I just raise my head a tiny bit and can see behind me. I can still see out of my left mirror when sitting upright, it's just angled lower than the right one. If it was angled 100% correctly for crouched position I only see the road next to my rear tire when sitting upright. So I made that little compromise.

I don't know where you live, but if you are live where splitting is legal I would recommend sticking to the stock mirrors. Bar end ones are wider which is never really good. Some may say the yamaha ones are big and get in the way, and yeah, I will admit that's true, but then you also have to remember the yamaha ones flip in sooooo easily. Sometimes when traffic is bad and there isn't much gap I just flip them back, super easy, and then once I get passed the car that was in the way, I just flip the mirror back up. And it's in the same exact place, since the mirror "clicks" into position. My kawasakis never did that. Pulling them out of the way was hard, and then they didn't snap back into place, it was a meticulous process to get them angled again, Just my 02 cents

I'm not interested in bar end mirrors, but handlebar mounted mirrors, like the stock FZ09.
Anyway, now I'm worried as I don't have enough space on my handlebar to mount them, thinking of moving the brake-lever/brake reservoir to a bit left and add the mount there.
and not sure about the left side.
found the OEm fz09 mirrors set for pretty cheap, but wondering about my next step.

 

[raja777m]

BTW, after the oil change (definitely), there are not much vibrations, but I was confused with the wobble at 40mph (straight line), leaving the handlebar without holding them.
The tire looks good, and after 100s of miles in twisties like Cherohala, TOD, Us-28/64/28, Devil's whip and other places, the tires are worn out evenly.
The front Shinko is getting close to the markings, where I need to order new tires, and the rear PR4, after 4k miles, looks brand new. No chicken strips.
I had some vibrations through the Cherohala Skyway ride, but that is because I was going on 4th gear at 50-60 mph due to the turns.

But the wobbles are not there at 70 or 80 mph when I take off my hands off the H-bar. What might be the problem?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Check for ANY CUPPING at the edges of tire treads on the front tire. Most likely your issue...

Next would be checking the steering head bearings for any looseness. Put on the center-stand, lift the nose with a sizzor jack (or other) under the header.
Then slowly and FEELING for ANY PLAY, pull the ft wheel(forks) up. You should not have ANY PLAY. If there is, you may get by adjusting the steering head nuts. Tightening them up. You DO NOT want any binding.. The upper triple does have to come off for adjustment.

 

[raja777m]

Check for ANY CUPPING at the edges of tire treads on the front tire. Most likely your issue...

Next would be checking the steering head bearings for any looseness. Put on the center-stand, lift the nose with a sizzor jack (or other) under the header.
Then slowly and FEELING for ANY PLAY, pull the ft wheel(forks) up. You should not have ANY PLAY. If there is, you may get buy adjusting the steering head nuts. Tightening them up. You DO NOT want any binding.. The upper triple does have to come off for adjustment.

I watched few videos on Friday, before starting to TOD.
PLAY:
something similar to this at 10:00 mins?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eBXaLOz2nM0
and this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OW-CmACI5xQ
and do we have something like this to do?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h4qMNprl6Lc

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

You didn't mention if there was there ANY CUPPING at the edges of the tire threads?


Also, the MAIN steering stem NUT should be checked first for tightness...

Before you tear into it, IMO, I'd find what the issue is first.

Now, should you want to do this in any event (basic maintenance), for re-re-greasing the steering head bearings, adjusting etc. That's fine but if its your tire, you'll still have the wobble..

I looked briefly at the video's, its' pretty much the same procedure for most bikes. There's numerous threads on this forum SPECIFICALLY for the FZ. The shop manual tells you specifically the torque #'s needed, etc FOR THE FZ- Important. IE get a shop manual... (PM me)

On my 04 Goldwing, it developed a de-cel wobble at about 35-50 MPH. The fix for that was tapered bearings, (All Balls), more surface area vs a roller bearing.

My old FJR, developed a bad wobble, maybe 40 MPH after a long road trip (original Bridgestones). I got home, when rolling the bike backwards and turning the steering, it felt like a friggin Knobbie, MX tire... I found major cupping (at the edges) that at the end of that trip (that finished off the tire). New tire, NO wobble what so ever, nice and smooth.

Re the one video you have posted, reference to the "steering notchiness"(sp??) , once centered, developing a notch.. I had that as well in my 1989 Kawasaki KLR 250. The bearings were NEVER maintained and that notch, didn't develop until I hit about 70,000 miles. That was my daily, to work driver.

 

[raja777m]

You didn't mention if there was there ANY CUPPING at the edges of the tire threads?


Also, the MAIN steering stem NUT should be checked first for tightness...

Before you tear into it, IMO, I'd find what the issue is first.

Now, should you want to do this in any event (basic maintenance), for re-re-greasing the steering head bearings, adjusting etc. That's fine but if its your tire, you'll still have the wobble..

I looked briefly at the video's, its' pretty much the same procedure for most bikes. There's numerous threads on this forum SPECIFICALLY for the FZ. The shop manual tells you specifically the torque #'s needed, etc FOR THE FZ- Important. IE get a shop manual... (PM me)

On my 04 Goldwing, it developed a de-cel wobble at about 35-50 MPH. The fix for that was tapered bearings, (All Balls), more surface area vs a roller bearing.

My old FJR, developed a bad wobble, maybe 40 MPH after a long road trip (original Bridgestones). I got home, when rolling the bike backwards and turning the steering, it felt like a friggin Knobbie, MX tire... I found major cupping (at the edges) that at the end of that trip (that finished off the tire). New tire, NO wobble what so ever, nice and smooth.

Re the one video you have posted, reference to the "steering notchiness"(sp??), once centered, developing a notch.. I had that as well in my 1989 Kawasaki KLR 250. The bearings were NEVER maintained and that notch, didn't develop until I hit about 70,000 miles. That was my daily, to work driver.

and I would like to get rid of that brick thing on the handlebar..! how can i replace it?
as I don't have enough space for my stuff on the handlebar..!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I don't see any cupping on those tires. When my FJR tires were at the end of their life, they still had tread BUT you could see the cupping and feel the edges worn away.



Re your handle bar, its just the handlebar hold down.

Part #14, from an S1; Yamaha Motorcycle Parts 2005 FZ6 - FZ6ST STEERING Diagram

It should fit.

 

[raja777m]

I don't see any cupping on those tires. When my FJR tires were at the end of their life, they still had tread BUT you could see the cupping and feel the edges worn away.



Re your handle bar, its just the handlebar hold down.

Part #14, from an S1; Yamaha Motorcycle Parts 2005 FZ6 - FZ6ST STEERING Diagram

It should fit.

with tomorrow's trip to Boone and 421 snake, the tires will be over, around 600 miles trip.
and I can order couple of 14's for handlebar and I can remove the existing one right?
and I had no success with handlebar mount mirrors, the mounts threading is a problem.
I got the adapters to reverse the thread, but still having some issues, when my brain is working fine, I'll think about it again.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Your going to need the bolts too. The caps are machined and recessed on the S1,


Your S2 has standard bolts that WON'T sit correctly (inside) with the S1 caps