06 Fazer MPG issues

[symtex]

Yes, US gallons.

I am assuming it is set for US gallons vs imperial gallons, correct?

 

[SandyN]

I also use fuelly and my average consumption is 22 kilometers/litre which is 50 US mpg or better. My average cruising speed is about 70 mph which is 6000 rpm; change point is around 5-7000rpm. I note my fuel usage is better than average, but having said that, my 30km commute each way is flat and straight.

The consumption drops to 20 km/l at sustained 7-8000 rpm. I replaced the original (10 year old) plugs and air filter at 17-18000 kms and fuel consumption has remained pretty constant. The bike seems to use more fuel in colder conditions.

I wonder if your high consumption has something to do with the sensor in the catalytic converter or the air temperature sensor?

 

[symtex]

OK, I have ran a couple hundred more miles and this time I changed my shift points and ran the RPM's higher and got 34 MPG. I ran some STP through it since I found an ex MC mechanic in the neighborhood who gave it (STP) to me to try. He swore it was great stuff. I am having a blast on the thing but the mileage is killing me.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

You noted much earlier you checked or changed the air filter.

Are you using the OEM or an aftermarket K&N oiled filter?

If the K&N is over oiled, it will hurt your mileage...

Un-less the engine is heavily modified (just aftermarket pipes are ok), I would put a NEW stock OEM air filter.

It does fit very snug in the box, a little, very thin layer of grease on the rubber edges make it much easier to install W/O bending / bending it up..

I would also pick up a small bottle of Yamaha's Ringfree fuel system/top end cleaner. It is MUCH STRONGER than anything you've run thru the engine. A small bottle is about $22 but its mixed @ 1oz/ 10 gallons.

On engnes I work on with carb issues, that will still run, I'll run a heavy dose of it thru the engine and can usuallysee a marked improvement. You can get it on-line, in some MC shops or at a Yamaha marina. I run it in EVERY GAS ENGINE I own. The bike, maybe every 5th tank or so (or when I remember).

In the boat, a 4 stroke Yamaha F150 (a 50 gallon built in tank), it and fuel stabilizer is all I run in it with NON ethonol fuel.

 

[symtex]

I checked the air filter and it appears to be a very clean OEM filter. The bike now has just under 4900 miles. This is a stock bike as far as engine/exhaust is concerned. The only mods are fender eliminator and blinkers. To date I have put just under 1100 miles on the bike averaging about 33 mpg. I will run to the local stealership and see if they have the Ringfree. I don't have another FZ6 to compare it to, but the bike runs/idles great. Thanks for the replies guys and hopefully one day I can report a improvement in my mpg. For now however, I am very disappointed. I have some really nice scenic routes to run on (3 Sisters in Texas hill country) but am too embarrassed at the moment to ride with a group since I constantly need to fuel up and there are few gas station on this route.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Thanks for the additional info..

Earlier, in the thread, you mentioned getting a Throttle sync tool for syncing the throttle bobies.. Did you ever get the sync tool and perform the sync? (Morgan Carbtune doesn't use any fluids).

Also, if you did or are getting readly to sync, re-check and re-adjust at 4,000 RPM's. You'll usually see a bit of a difference with less vib's, better performance, etc.

Yamaha sepc's allow for 10mm difference between cylinders. With some some fine tuning, I have mine all within 3mm's (got rid of 90% of the seat vib's I was getting). **Put the largest fan you can find in front of the header when doing this...

Seeing the vacuum gauge hooked up with the initial settings may prove interesting.

BTW, you can run that RingFree on the heavy side initially, then ween off it or cut way back on it. I would run the Ringfree before doing a final sync. A "pre-sync" peek would be interesting.

And lastly, I'm assuming you have the air pressure in the tires up to spec's cold?

 

[FinalImpact]

I don't see TB sync fixing this. Well unless you spend all day sitting there at idle! Blah

[MENTION=26122]SandyN[/MENTION] may have nailed it with an unplugged or damaged O2 sensor. Or if someone purposely terminated the ECM O2 pickup with a Simulator plug. The ECM will default to a RICH condition and the MPGs will tank ( haha). If someone were for example trying to squeeeeeeeeeeze some powers from the little fizzer, this would be a way to richen it to the ECMs default fuel map with no O2 compensation.
- This could damage the CAT if ran this way for extended periods. Which even if corrected, could cause poor MPGs.

Do you have digital volt meter and can you confirm O2 sensor is plugged in?
Lift the tank and follow the two leads from the right side of the frame. Mine appears to connect and lay right under the ECM connector:

Follow the 4 wires from the sensor on the header.

 

[FinalImpact]

I don't see TB sync fixing this. Well unless you spend all day sitting there at idle! Blah

[MENTION=26122]SandyN[/MENTION] may have nailed it with an unplugged or damaged O2 sensor. Or if someone purposely terminated the ECM O2 pickup with a Simulator plug. The ECM will default to a RICH condition and the MPGs will tank ( haha). If someone were for example trying to squeeeeeeeeeeze some powers from the little fizzer, this would be a way to richen it to the ECMs default fuel map with no O2 compensation.
- This could damage the CAT if ran this way for extended periods. Which even if corrected, could cause poor MPGs.

Do you have digital volt meter and can you confirm O2 sensor is plugged in?
Lift the tank and follow the two leads from the right side of the frame. Mine appears to connect and lay right under the ECM connector:

<<SNIP>>

^^ FWIW:
Be careful about using a DMM on an O2 sensor. You can safely measure the heater (usually the 2 white wires) using the ohm function. Expect something less than 20 ohms (its temperature dependent). Anything more and the heaters resistor is likely burned open.
** DO NOT USE the OHM, DIODE, and CAPACITANCE function on the Sensor itself as it injects a small amount of energy which can damage the O2 sensor.

Once the sensor is hot from being ran at highway speeds you can measure and verify its output using the VOLTS setting. While connected to the ECM it should produce roughly 0.45 to 0.55 volts while the engine is attempting to maintain 14.7:1 AFR (you need to average this ~0.5Vdc)....

Some light reading about O2 sensors..... OXYGEN SENSORS

Also see post 55 http://www.600riders.com/forum/showpost.php?p=597734&postcount=55

 

[norcalwelder]

One thing I noticed about two years of riding my FZ6 in East Texas was I would consistent get 10MPG less than gas from any other state. I brought my bike to Colorado and riding the snot out of it I get 60 MPG while in Texas I got 41-42 MPG. Granted altitude has something to do with it, but every time I went to Oklahoma or New Mexico and filled at my mileage improved. This might not be your problem, but I have noticed a difference.

 

[symtex]

So an update... I went ahead and changed out the spark plugs with the OEM recommended NGK plugs. I did this the long way, ie.. removing the tank, air-box and battery. Put it all back together and hit the start button and nothing...
I pulled it all back apart to see if something I did putting at all back together might have unplugged something etc. Well as soon as I pulled it all apart, it dawned on me that I might be an idiot, and I was. It was not in neutral when I tried to start it. I put it all back together and put the machine in neutral and hit the start button and she came to life. I took her out for a spin and it literally felt like I upgraded to a larger CC bike in what I felt power wise. I quickly went to some old back roads with some decent twisties and ran her hard. Put a little over 100 miles that day and filled the tank and had 39 mpg. Well that's 6 more than my average, so I am very excited right now. I bet if I tone it down a bit it might even get better. Thanks for reading and providing me with feedback.

 

[FinalImpact]

So an update... I went ahead and changed out the spark plugs with the OEM recommended NGK plugs. I did this the long way, ie.. removing the tank, air-box and battery. Put it all back together and hit the start button and nothing...
I pulled it all back apart to see if something I did putting at all back together might have unplugged something etc. Well as soon as I pulled it all apart, it dawned on me that I might be an idiot, and I was. It was not in neutral when I tried to start it. I put it all back together and put the machine in neutral and hit the start button and she came to life. I took her out for a spin and it literally felt like I upgraded to a larger CC bike in what I felt power wise. I quickly went to some old back roads with some decent twisties and ran her hard. Put a little over 100 miles that day and filled the tank and had 39 mpg. Well that's 6 more than my average, so I am very excited right now. I bet if I tone it down a bit it might even get better. Thanks for reading and providing me with feedback.

So, new plugs at (06 FZ6 with 3800 miles ) ~ 4,000 miles?

As for MPGs, you might just find a place and checked the odometer and see how it stacks up. There are a only a couple of 'calibrated' odometer areas in these parts on the interstate - you might look for one and get the actual numbers...

Also, this is what you gain by dropping the left side radiator bolts and dropping it...
Click image for link to Cure for vibrations....


While there - add some extra insurance that the wires don't move in the caps body....

Throw a ZIPTIE around the caps boot to reduce the strain and keep the vibes from loosening the connection at the wires core to the caps threaded conductor.

See this thread for details.... CLICK IMAGE!!!


A cure for bad vibrations, Spark Plug Caps!!l

 

[symtex]

I did verify the trip/odometer against my Garmin GPS and they match up. Id say the odometer is correct. I will definitely zip-tie down the boots.