Hi Motogiro,
I had thought I might not have to keep posting on this forum if there is nobody interested on this issue, then you commented. I feel much embarassed because I made a big mistake. I use a key copied from my black key in a street keystone, there is no chip in it, so the bike can...
I thought my ECU has a problem. The fuse is OK and I had checked the “starting circuit cut-off relay” and found the control command line from the ECU is high(should be low to energize the relay). This the reason why my fuel pump can not prime. I also short-circuited intentionally the connector...
Yes, I will check this fuse as well as the starting circuit cut-off relay. As regards the Hi coolant temperature problem, I think I need to check the connection between the ECU and the cluster, I will report here if there is any good news.
I install the gas tank today then turn the key on, I found
1. Fuel pump does not prime
2. Dash light on, tach sweep
3. Still Hi temperature on dash
4. Engine spin but can’t run
5. Diag. mode still not accessible.
Any comment is appreciated.
Hi TownsendsFJR1300,
Thanks for your comments.
I just note clearly the engine does not spin anyway. Because the gas tank now is removed and yet mounted back, I will check the others after the tank is in place.
And later I found the ignition switch is not worn out, it is the key I used worn...
Hi Motogiro,
Thanks for your valued advice. The syndrome appears one or two time before, but it is soon cleared after I restart the ignition switch. But this time it’s permanent. My ignition switch had been hard to turned and start, my mechanic had put some WD40 into the switch key hole to...
Hi everyone in this forum,
My bike has a problem. It won’t start and the only syndrome is the cluster shows “Hi”( coolant temperature). I had checked the resistance of the coolant temperature sensor and it is within the spec. I had tried to entered the diag mode, but I can not. I do not know...
My bike cant not start and the coolant temperature indicator only shows "Hi". I had removed the tank to access the sensor and find it was open(infinite Ohms). I guess I need to replace it but I had the following questions:
1. I don't want to remove the filter box and throttle body to have a...
Mine had been run for 42,000km with the original one and sprocket still looks good now, expecting to run another 20,000km.
I never let the bike shop to adjust the chain slack for me even in the tyre replacement, they always thought Yamaha slack is too large.
I adjust my chain to the spec...
I joined this club two month ago and it cost me 150 USD to retap the thread.
I used a high-range torque wrench for this bolt for the first time and ruined it shortly after, the same situation like you.
Never use a torque wrench for this bolt if the torque range is far beyond it is...
The manual called for the measuremnet to be done using the centerstand and the criteria is 45~55mm. Make sure you adjust according to the manual.
When measuring, I use a rule pressed on the swing arm and then push/pull the chain vertically as far as I can and see the displacement of the same...
I would like to suggest you to check if your clutch lever pivot is jammed or not. See my post before.
http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-general-discussion/52387-jammed-clutch-lever-pivot.html?highlight=jammed+clutch+lever
Check this to see if it can solve your problem. Your problem had also bothered me for years. Everytime in a traffic jam, the clutch became loose and slackness increased. After cleaning the clutch pivot, the engine temperature no more influences the clutch operation...
Next I will check if the rear sprocket and chain had worn to their limits. Worn sprocket will show sharp teeth and wear limit of the chain is as follows which I had copied from the manual.
How long is it since you lubricate your chain? If there is noise suspected coming from the chain, two things what I first do is lubricate the chain and check the slack. Mostly it will work. It is a good practice to lubricate your chain every month.
Additionally, check if the rear axle nut is...
There is a small plastic bushing inside the clutch lever which avoid metal to metal contact between the clutch wire head and lever. My 31,000km bush had worn seriously. Partzilla shows this can be bought only with the lever. I went to the wareshop to buy a ID6mm, OD8mm rigid platic tube costing...
Thanks for reminding me. I will do this soon. The small amount of threads left inside the adjustment nut do no good for the nut itself and make me fearful, as I can see the nut wobble everytime I pull the clutch lever.
Taking care of the jammed pivot is also important. If the condition...