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520 chain benefits?????

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This year alone I've had my best-bud's chain snap as well as a cousin of mine too...My buddy got off lucky - no other damage to the bike post chain snap. My cousin on the other hand is now needing a new engine in his Ninja 900. I think his was stock, but still...getting a weaker-than-stock chain which will in turn allow things to go faster seems like a no-no. If it makes more power, I'd like it to be stronger :)

Beyond easy stuff like exhast, air-filter etc which can be plug and play, maybe a rejet to get things running well...stuff like chains and engine work to make her go-faster I just don't have the knowledge or the patience to take those on. If I wanted to go faster, I'd get an R1!
 
VEGASRIDER said:
Talk about being weight sensitive, trying to save a pound or two on the bike. Wouldn't it just be easier to go on a diet?
Click to expand...

I read an article that stated a 1kg weight reduction in unsprung weight is equivalent to a 5kg drop in sprung weight which I thought was interesting.
 
VEGASRIDER said:
Say Wolf,

Here in the states, we have quarter mile drag races in which you can take your bike every month. Do they have something similar down under?

Just curious how much of a difference you would show on paper taking both of your bikes to the strip. It's broken down into several sections, so you can see your time from many distances, not just as a whole.

Check out the link below.

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-general-discussion/13361-vegasrider-vs-sv650-lvms-dragstrip.html
Click to expand...

Another doubter......Why would i do that, when i have a great side by side comparison sitting in my garage! Couldnt give a toss about quarter mile times, more so, drive off a corner...

:thumbup:
 
Ugh. Just got a quote from a shop about replacing the chain and sprockets, and it's messier than I thought.

I bought (bikebandit.com) the front and rear OEM sprockets, along with the rear wheel bearings and retaining clips / nuts etc for both sprockets, but no chain because I thought "wow, $145 is a lot for an OEM chain." The shop says it lists as a 532, not a 530, and that there's only one aftermarket option at like $200-something, so I'm better off with the OEM there.

BUT

There's no master link on the OEM chain. That means an extra 2 or 3 hours of labor to pull the swingarm.

...

OR I can get them to order 520 sprockets and a chain with masterlink, and installation plus parts all comes to about $450.

Someone tell me what to do my brain hurts. I don't want to race, I want to get another 28,500 miles out of this next chain.
 
cap'n said:
Ugh. Just got a quote from a shop about replacing the chain and sprockets, and it's messier than I thought.

I bought (bikebandit.com) the front and rear OEM sprockets, along with the rear wheel bearings and retaining clips / nuts etc for both sprockets, but no chain because I thought "wow, $145 is a lot for an OEM chain." The shop says it lists as a 532, not a 530, and that there's only one aftermarket option at like $200-something, so I'm better off with the OEM there.

BUT

There's no master link on the OEM chain. That means an extra 2 or 3 hours of labor to pull the swingarm.

...

OR I can get them to order 520 sprockets and a chain with masterlink, and installation plus parts all comes to about $450.

Someone tell me what to do my brain hurts. I don't want to race, I want to get another 28,500 miles out of this next chain.
Click to expand...

It's a 530 chain. tell your shop to find you a quality 530 chain with a rivet type master link and mount it all up in a resonable amount of time (I'd guess 30 to 90 minutes, including both sprockets).

I own a chain rivet tool, so it costs me about 1/3 what you're quoting. the rivet tool can be had for $75 to $125 and will last forever. Mounting a chain is not rocket science...you can do it. Lots of info on the net.

Don't waste your money paying some tool to molest your bike! :thumbup: Good luck :thumbup:
 
cap'n said:
Ugh. Just got a quote from a shop about replacing the chain and sprockets, and it's messier than I thought.

I bought (bikebandit.com) the front and rear OEM sprockets, along with the rear wheel bearings and retaining clips / nuts etc for both sprockets, but no chain because I thought "wow, $145 is a lot for an OEM chain." The shop says it lists as a 532, not a 530, and that there's only one aftermarket option at like $200-something, so I'm better off with the OEM there.

BUT

There's no master link on the OEM chain. That means an extra 2 or 3 hours of labor to pull the swingarm.

...

OR I can get them to order 520 sprockets and a chain with masterlink, and installation plus parts all comes to about $450.

Someone tell me what to do my brain hurts. I don't want to race, I want to get another 28,500 miles out of this next chain.
Click to expand...

I seriously doubt the OEM chain is delivered in continuous form.... there's almost certainly a master link in the kit.
 
chain rivet tool, eh? Hmm. I wonder if I could do this on the clock at work in the parking garage? Take a half day, go downstairs and knock it out...
 
Alright time to get serious about this. That chain needs replacin'.

Does anyone feel generous enough to point me at the right kind of chain tool, and maybe even the right chain (530 and master link with 118 links, right?) I will do this myself but it's the first chain work I've done (that wasn't a bicycle) so any pointers in the right direction would help a ton.
 
$171 for a DID chain... from what I can gather it comes with lube, which is nice (I actually have no lithium grease right now), but it seems steep. And then tools seem to be $15, or $51, or $90.

Has anyone actually done a chain swap themselves that could weigh in?
 
CDE said:
This year alone I've had my best-bud's chain snap as well as a cousin of mine too...My buddy got off lucky - no other damage to the bike post chain snap. My cousin on the other hand is now needing a new engine in his Ninja 900. I think his was stock, but still...getting a weaker-than-stock chain which will in turn allow things to go faster seems like a no-no. If it makes more power, I'd like it to be stronger :)

Beyond easy stuff like exhast, air-filter etc which can be plug and play, maybe a rejet to get things running well...stuff like chains and engine work to make her go-faster I just don't have the knowledge or the patience to take those on. If I wanted to go faster, I'd get an R1!
Click to expand...
If I wanted to go faster..I'd get a bmw s1000r/rr .. both are faster than an r1! Lol
 
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