So I Wrecked (Again)

[BitesWhenBitten]

This time I was able to see everything that happened. I went to shift into third and it got stuck between gears. I pulled in the clutch and let out again, and it popped into gear, the sudden power (despite not revving it) caused the bike to wobble and I lowsided on the clutch side.

A guy stopped to help me (front brake caliper got stuck, couldn't release the brake, I ended up bleeding some of the brake fluid out to release), and he suggested it may be the CNC aftermarket levers to blame.

What say you guys? Is it something more serious, or can I throw the stock levers on and ride?

Thank you!

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[Motogiro]

Sorry to hear this and glad you're okay. If you didn't have a front brake problem before this it may be the CNC lever and/or the master cylinder perch was damaged in the incident.

Did you ever get your suspension problem resolved? Your bike went into a wobble before your last incident.
It's normal to go through different events as you gain experience as a rider. If there is a safety issue with your bike being unstable where you may not have experienced instability (wobble) during letting out of the clutch, the bike should be repaired.

 

[BitesWhenBitten]

Sorry to hear this and glad you're okay. If you didn't have a front brake problem before this it may be the CNC lever and/or the master cylinder perch was damaged in the incident.

Did you ever get your suspension problem resolved? Your bike went into a wobble before your last incident.
It's normal to go through different events as you gain experience as a rider. If there is a safety issue with your bike being unstable where you may not have experienced instability (wobble) during letting out of the clutch, the bike should be repaired.

My mechanic is in the hospital still. I will probably take it to a different shop.
After I had replaced the oil pump cover, put on sliders, and replaced the kill switch, I took it for a ride for about an hour with no issues, so I had thought I had fixed the issue.
It's still on my list to delower it, obviously.

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[darius]

+1 glad you're ok.

• Do not ride that bike until you have it fully checked out: Levers, clutch cable, shifter linkage, front brake calipers, de-lower the bike.
• Don't take it on the highway until you're certain the bike is sorted- one good ride is not enough as you've learned.

1. Do you death grip the bars when the bike has a problem? That can cause or make a wobble worse. If you did everything right from a rider response perspective, you should arguably have been able to safely pull over in both situations. Easier said than done I know.

2. Are you too tall for the bikes current setup? If you have significant weight on the bars and even footpegs in my experience (long legs) instead of through the seat, the bike is going to be less stable.

 

[BitesWhenBitten]

I do not death grip, and I'm actually still short.

If anyone knows of an affordable shop in Louisville, I would appreciate it. Because it's that or wait for the original mechanic to be out of hospital and we'll enough to look at it.

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[darius]

I do not death grip, and I'm actually still short.

If anyone knows of an affordable shop in Louisville, I would appreciate it. Because it's that or wait for the original mechanic to be out of hospital and we'll enough to look at it.

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OK, but I wouldn't assume that the lowered condition of the bike is the only cause of instability. You, what you do and how you do it is the biggest variable.

The FZ6 is inherently a very stable bike with a long wheelbase and very few people have ever added a steering damper. It takes a lot wrong to destabilize it.

Make sure your tires are not old and ensure your tire pressure is correct for your weight.

 

[BitesWhenBitten]

I have two new tires on it and I have it set to the minimum pressure to match my weight.

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[darius]

I have two new tires on it and I have it set to the minimum pressure to match my weight.

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That's good. At minimum pressure, if you feel any squirm from the rear, add some air. Some tires have more sidewall flex than others.

Be sure to find out the answer the stability question. We all want you to be safe.. and stop dropping our bike Blah

 

[Seanzi]

This time I was able to see everything that happened. I went to shift into third and it got stuck between gears. I pulled in the clutch and let out again, and it popped into gear, the sudden power (despite not revving it) caused the bike to wobble and I lowsided on the clutch side.

Wobble is cause by your tires rotating at different speeds causing oscillations that occur because the different diameter of your tire sections (outside of tire is shorter than the center). When what you describe happens to me while going straight, I get a rear tire hop/shutter, but I have gotten wobbs from similar situations too.

A guy stopped to help me (front brake caliper got stuck, couldn't release the brake, I ended up bleeding some of the brake fluid out to release), and he suggested it may be the CNC aftermarket levers to blame.

Actually you’re probably just introducing air into your brake system unless you’re really squeezing that brake lever while momentarily cracking open the caliper valve. Also pictures are worth a thousand words for me. I doubt it’s the levers unless you obviously see that it’s bound, bent, or depressing on the master cylinder when not touching it.

What say you guys? Is it something more serious, or can I throw the stock levers on

Definitely try if you don’t have any other ideas. Levers are screwedup anyways, right? Send some photos of the areas you have in question. I’ve torn down and rebuilt an FZ so I’m pretty familiar with the parts. As someone else mentioned, don’t leave a parking lot until you’re sure you’ve sorted the issues. Seriously. This is coming from someone had their FZ totaled last month and lucky to be alive. (Hence all the for sale accessories


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[BitesWhenBitten]

When I get home I'll throw some photos up.

It's much appreciated.

I also have a gear head looking at the bike tonight, and I found a shop that can undo the lowering possibly tomorrow at a fair price.

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[Seanzi]

When I get home I'll throw some photos up.

It's much appreciated.

I also have a gear head looking at the bike tonight, and I found a shop that can undo the lowering possibly tomorrow at a fair price.

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Wait, your bike is just lowered using the rear coilover adjustment or did they change a link and respring your shocks?


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[BitesWhenBitten]

I believe they changed out the link.
Definitely lowered the forks (by raising above the holder-whatever)

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[TownsendsFJR1300]

This time I was able to see everything that happened. I went to shift into third and it got stuck between gears. I pulled in the clutch and let out again, and it popped into gear, the sudden power (despite not revving it) caused the bike to wobble and I lowsided on the clutch side.

A guy stopped to help me (front brake caliper got stuck, couldn't release the brake, I ended up bleeding some of the brake fluid out to release), and he suggested it may be the CNC aftermarket levers to blame.

I suspect you downshifted causing the havoc HOWEVER, the 07 and up bikes have 4 piston calipers(each side).

Cheap levers have had issues NOT fully releasing the fluid in the master cylinder, eventually building up pressure on their own and APPLYING the front brake.

The brake being locked up alone I suspect may be your issue all along. The front wheel locking up on it's own will put "down" most riders, most of the weight is now on the front tire, back is loose and easier to swing about..

*Back to the calipers.. Over time, all the small rubber seals inside harden up and don't like to release the brake pistons. This WILL cause excessive drag
on the front rotors (however I've never heard of one COMPLETLY locking up).

Put the bike on the center-stand and a small jack under the header just to get the front tire off the floor.

Now, spin the tire as hard as you can by hand. You should see that tire rotate at LEAST ONE full turn.. (Obviously the brakes need to be bleed BACK to normal to test this). If it doesn't spin/turn at least that much they need re-building...

If you could safely ride it, I would go for a ride to say 50 MPH, then stop quickly with JUST the REAR BRAKE. Then carefully touch the front rotors. They should be no warmer than COOL to the touch. If their HOT, their dragging WAY TO MUCH and need attention.

Just as a side, after I rebuilt up mine (not cleaned-which I also did once) I went from approx. ONE full rotation to now (at least three years later) to about 3.5 rotations.

My old 04 FJR, low miles, same exact calipers as the S2 did the same thing over time. Got lucky after an interstate trip. Got home go to roll the bike in the garage, could barely move it and the rotors were FRIGGIN HOT.. Same re-build as the S2, was fine after that..

 

[BitesWhenBitten]

My boyfriend knows a guy who knows a guy (I know, sounds reputable) who does good bike work affordablely. Dropped the bike to him, the first thing he said was the aftermarket levers didn't have a bore deep enough for the brake pin (or whatever) and that my brakes were applying themselves, just like you said.
I'm leaving it with him to look over the ENTIRE bike and undo the lowering.

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[TownsendsFJR1300]

Well, that (POS brake lever) was your main issue for all your crashes...

Make sure he checks the front brake calipers for drag. Normal wear and tear (and old age), they will drag (and need normal servicing)

 

[zixaq]

It's good to find a problem, but don't let it blind you to other potential issues. Stick the OEM levers back on for now if you have them or get some reputable aftermarket ones. I have a set of cheap chinese knockoffs and a set of CRG levers right now, and I can tell you the difference in build quality is obvious.

With the levers sorted check the brakes for drag as mentioned above and make sure they're bled properly. Make sure your bike's geometry is set up properly. Ideally check sag, but a good first approximation is that when you lean into a turn: if the bike tries to stand back up or dip in further on its own it needs to be adjusted. With correct setup, once leaned in the bike shouldn't require much, if any, pressure on the bars to stay at the same lean. It sounds like you're a fairly small person, so you're probably not having huge suspension issues like some of us do.

There was also a mention of where you put your weight. You never want ANY weight being applied through the bars. You DO want your weight through the pegs. Keep your feet pressed into the pegs, legs locked to the tank and core muscles taught for best control of the bike. Whoever said putting weight on the pegs could cause instability is wrong.

 

[Ital]

WOW, had no idea that levers could cause an issue like this. This scares me because one of the first mode I did was to put on cheap levers... I do not think I am having a problem but how do I know for sure?

These are the one I bought...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019824W4A/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

sorry for hijacking thread...

 

[BitesWhenBitten]

I think this will be a great reference thread for new riders (or even veterans looking to modify) so they don't make the mistake I made here.
My takeaway is this: if you want to do a mod, have a mechanic you trust sign off on it or install it for you.

I specifically bought aftermarket levers for the make model and year, and yet they don't fit right.

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[BitesWhenBitten]

Another post above says to ride around and then touch your rotors after using only the back brake.

Any time I install new levers I will be doing this.


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[zixaq]

Another post above says to ride around and then touch your rotors after using only the back brake.

Any time I install new levers I will be doing this.


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It's a good test to do once in a while regardless of mods. Brake calipers get gummed up with dust and debris over time and can start to rub. It's hard on your pads and rotors and can lead to insane amounts of heat being generated.