Yamaha fz6 2005 hunting

[Ste_valves]

I have just bought a 2005 fz6 fazer with only 3000 miles on the clock. By the look of the tax disc the bike had previously stood for about a year and a half in a garage. I first thought the hunting could of been bad fuel but after some injector cleaner i have the same problem. Checked the bikes air filter, spark plugs, battery, throttle position sensor(readings are 16 and 100) the obviouse things, anyone got any ideas or had the same problem? Im hoping that with the bike only covering 3000 miles that it wont be anything major like valve clearance.. (engine idling speed looks correct, just obviously jumping around a bit from the hunting..)

thank you

 

[dschult2]

What does it mean if a motorcycle is hunting? I've never heard that term.

 

[iSteve]

Sounds like you need a throttle body sync.

 

[7UPyours]

is this only at idle or while riding, maybe just adjusting idle might fix you issue, and TB sync wouldnt hurt either

 

[Ste_valves]

its riding aswell as idle but obviously less noticable...

 

[Cortez]

Sounds like you need a throttle body sync.

This....

..
.

 

[Cortez]

What does it mean if a motorcycle is hunting? I've never heard that term.

Surging while riding and/or uneven idle.
Try a stock Ducati.

 

[FinalImpact]

I have just bought a 2005 fz6 fazer with only 3000 miles on the clock. By the look of the tax disc the bike had previously stood for about a year and a half in a garage. I first thought the hunting could of been bad fuel but after some injector cleaner i have the same problem. Checked the bikes air filter, spark plugs, battery, throttle position sensor(readings are 16 and 100) the obviouse things, anyone got any ideas or had the same problem? Im hoping that with the bike only covering 3000 miles that it wont be anything major like valve clearance.. (engine idling speed looks correct, just obviously jumping around a bit from the hunting..)

thank you

You might want to go into some detail about when it does this ^^. It sounds like your main issue is at idle but the rest is vague.

Disconnect the battery and let it set for 5 min. Reconnect and tell us if it changes anything. And please add some details to clarify exactly what it does.
Like ~ when warm it idles at 1300 RPM but varies between 1000 and 1500 RPM.

 

[Ste_valves]

Thank you all for your replies. They are much appreciated!!

I've been busy lately so have not had the time to do much to it but I did try syncing the throttle bodies last week and id get them near perfect then it would jump as the bike hunts and that would knock them out of sync again. I'm hoping to get some more time over the next few days,(FinalImpact) ill make a full write up of problem and a better description.
Going off topic here a bit but I did however find a 30mm allen key bolt in the fuel tank last week. Heaven knows how someone has dropped it in there. Heard it slide as i lifted the tank up, after some investigation that's what i found. Bit strange.....

 

[Ste_valves]

I have uploaded a video to youtube of my bike hunting on idle, so you can see exactly what is happening. FinalImpact, hopefully this will be a bit better than me trying to explain it. As you can see it drops 300 revs twice in the space of 30 odd seconds.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5_nZw6T3DFw&feature=youtu.be

I have checked spark plugs, checked TPS sensor (resistance and i checked the values were right on the lcd display menu), i have cleaned the crank shaft sensor, i have had injector cleaner through the bike, i have had a go at syncing the throttle bodies(with a home made guage as on youtube video's) but it dosent seem to make it any better (i seemed to get them somewhere perfect, then it would hunt again throwing them out of sync, which is why i dont think syncing is the problem.)

Thank you in advance. Any help would be great

 

[FZSexy]

I have uploaded a video to youtube of my bike hunting on idle, so you can see exactly what is happening. FinalImpact, hopefully this will be a bit better than me trying to explain it. As you can see it drops 300 revs twice in the space of 30 odd seconds.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5_nZw6T3DFw&feature=youtu.be

I have checked spark plugs, checked TPS sensor (resistance and i checked the values were right on the lcd display menu), i have cleaned the crank shaft sensor, i have had injector cleaner through the bike, i have had a go at syncing the throttle bodies(with a home made guage as on youtube video's) but it dosent seem to make it any better (i seemed to get them somewhere perfect, then it would hunt again throwing them out of sync, which is why i dont think syncing is the problem.)

Thank you in advance. Any help would be great

that seems odd. and i guess the bike rides well? may have been asked and answered, i will check the thread

i would hate having that sort of digital tach. my tach is steady, no hunting. but if it moves this way or that way a bit at times digits on my display aren't there to obsess me as i ride along. not saying OP is obsessed of course. that is unfortunate and legit

what i am saying is i would obsess. a bit, at least. and i'd rather toss my tach in the bushes then let it ruin my ride. i need to hear that video as the engine is rising and falling, no? i can't use audio atm

anyway hope you get it fixed and i hope to learn something from your bike troubles. i am sure it will be back to normal, soon

do these things have stators? rectifier? check those. i don't really know why you would, but i notice its a popular choice among internet experts when things start acting weird

"maybe the battery?"

maybe

 

[Cortez]

It's not the battery.
At that point he should be able to remove the battery completely and not have
it affect the idle.

OP - you should enable comments on the video, maybe someone on YT runs into it and knows what's wrong.

 

[jog]

Hi,
just joined the forum and wanted
to add my thoughts to the discussion.
After watching the video it sounds as if
a cylinder or two is cutting out momentarily.
Which makes me think you may have a faulty coil.
These types of problems usually show up after the parts
have heated up.Does it do the same thing when its cold?

 

[outasight20]

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-...on-cure-bad-vibrations-spark-plug-caps-9.html

I am 90% sure this is the same problem I had and replacing a worn spark plug cap fixed the issue.

While the bike is idling, pull out one spark plug cap at a time. If you pull a cap off and the idle smooths out (even though you're only running 3 cylinders), you've identified your problem. For me it was the number 1 cap.

 

[Cortez]

If this is indeed a cylinder shutting off, it should be detectable by a rather big
change in vibrations on the bike while sitting on it.

If the revs drop with all cylinders still firing I would imagine the vibrations would
change noticeably, so, yeah, the 2 posts above are great.

 

[FIZZER6]

From my 20+ years of working on fuel injected car engines I can tell you with a high degree of certainty that this is most likely ignition system related. Fuel issues don't cause such a drastic stumble like this. I would suspect spark plugs wires, caps and/or plugs.

 

[FinalImpact]

Sounds to me like an actual misfire. Like at least one cylinder is dropping out.

Back to my original question - is your only complaint at idle? What about the rest of the range and while riding? Say at 6000 RPM in 3rd gear. Is it detectable then?

If it were mine; I'd do the following:
Grab squirt bottle and while its doing this misfire thing, mist water at each header about 6" down from the flange. If a plug or injector is not firing it will show up as reduced heat on one of the headers.

Look for the header that takes the longest period of time to evaporate all of the moisture from being sprayed. This is the cylinder(s) we need to look at.

What did you gap the plugs and DO KEEP IN MIND THAT ONCE IN A WHILE NEW PARTS FAIL!!! Even Spark plugs! Seen it many times! Do keep in mind that EXCESSIVE GAP can cause a misfire. It will force the arc to jump internally in the coil or somewhere other than the plugs gap. On waste spark it systems its VERY IMPORTANT TO MAINTAIN EQUAL GAPS on pairs of plugs.

As mentioned; look real close at the caps - something is likely wrong. Either the wire is not seated properly or the cap or coil is damaged.

From: http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-...tion-cure-bad-vibrations-spark-plug-caps.html





Read the first post and go take a look. Any contact that is not clean bare metal is subject to causing issues with misfire.