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DUAL lowbeam Vs. Highbeams on?

Kingwu said:
I might have to do that then.

How about HID's? What bulbs do you use?
Click to expand...

You want bi-xenon HID projectors if you go with HID's. Otherwise you won't have a high beam. "Bi-xenon" projectors have a high beam. You can get the entire kit with everything you need for $270 from the retrofit source dot com.
 
TownsendsFJR1300 said:
Keep your idle set to spec's, 1250 or so and you'll have slight charging (above 12.8, closer to 13 volts).

If the idle is set at 1,000 (which I prefer, but have since bumped up-for longer battery life)), your discharging the battery at idle..
Click to expand...

Lol, I still don't understand what that means. How do you set specs?
 
What Townsend's means is that if you set the idle below the spec of 1250 rpm then you run the risk of having too low an output from the charging system and therefore may be discharging the battery at idle. The charging system's output in volts could be less than 12 at a low idle.

I hope that clears things up

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
 
trepetti said:
What Townsend's means is that if you set the idle below the spec of 1250 rpm then you run the risk of having too low an output from the charging system and therefore may be discharging the battery at idle. The charging system's output in volts could be less than 12 at a low idle.

I hope that clears things up

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Idek how to set idle specs, I just got my bike last week lol. How do you know what it's set to? Look at the RPM meter when it's idling?
 
I thought about the hid's for a while because I liked the look, but the bottom line is you need to make yourself seen and you need increased visibility at night. The dual headlight mod will accomplish both and you will have some extra cash for that exhaust system. IMHO

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk
 
Yeah, 1250 RPM would be a 1/4 of the way from that first mark to the 2 on the tachometer.

1250-1350 RPM is Yamaha's specification for idle speed once it settles down shortly after starting.

To amplify what others have said, the FZ6 doesn't have much generator power to spare, so as you add electrical goodies you have to be conscious of things that might drain the battery -- reducing idle speed, long periods of idling in traffic with accessories turned on, etc. At cruising speed, the engine will be spinning fast enough to generate enough electrical power to both charge the battery and run the accessories.
 
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oaks said:
Yeah, 1250 RPM would be a 1/4 of the way from that first mark to the 2 on the tachometer.

1250-1350 RPM is Yamaha's specification for idle speed once it settles down shortly after starting.

To amplify what other have said, the FZ6 doesn't much generator power to spare, so as you add electrical goodies you have to be conscious of things that might drain the battery -- reducing idle speed, long periods of idling in traffic with accessories turned on, etc.
Click to expand...

Ok, so what happens if I add the dual headlight mod and it goes to like 1400 RPM. Also, Why is yours at 0? Is it not started up?
 
Kingwu said:
Ok, so what happens if I add the dual headlight mod and it goes to like 1400 RPM. Also, Why is yours at 0? Is it not started up?
Click to expand...

Adding the dual headlight mod won't change your idle speed. You have to turn a screw to make that happen. Some people change it as a personal preference. TownsendsFJR1300 mentioned that just in case yours was adjusted too low by the previous owner, I assume.

The pic is just one I snagged off the Internet somewhere showing the analog tachometer for reference. 2004-2006 FZ6es have a digital tach. I've never touched the idle speed adjustment and it registers just above the first mark at idle.
 
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oaks said:
Adding the dual headlight mod won't change your idle speed. You have to turn a screw to make that happen. Some people change it as a personal preference. TownsendsFJR1300 mentioned that just in case yours was adjusted too low by the previous owner, I assume.

The pic is just one I snagged of the Internet somewhere showing the analog tachometer for reference. 2004-2006 FZ6es have a digital tach. I've never touched the idle speed adjustment and it registers just above the first mark at idle.
Click to expand...

Ok I understand now. I'ma go home and check it out, it should be normal. I just feel my bike is different after a minor low side fall :( but it's probably just me being paranoid, I got it inspected the other day :rockon:
 
Plus 1 on the above posts.

I've had the dual headlight mod literally for years, so both headlights lights are always on when running.

How to adjust the idle is in your owners manual
( Free download: Boneman's FZ6 Site - Mods )

As stated earlier, with both lights illuminated and the idle set at approx 1250, I checked my voltage. It was about 13.1volts, 13.2 volts, CHARGING. 2,500 RPM's, about 13.7 volts (plenty). If you have heated grips, I would probably turn them off if idleing a long time, (they tend to draw a fair amount of power).

**I probably shouldn't have mentioned idleing at 1,000, its just confused you and IS BELOW FACTORY SPEC's. I prefered it for engine braking and the bike idled SMOOTHER (no vibs in the mirrors). HOWEVER, my batter started showing signs of failure (dimming of dash while chranging over) so the lower idle (battery is 3 years old, ridden 365) has probably taken it toll.

_______________________________________________________________________________________________
Just as a side note for anyone interested, a battery life extender tip..

After speaking wth Randy and Cliff (I already have a new battery waiting to be filled/charged), I did a procedure that has stopped and apparently extended the life of my current, sulfated battery:

With a voltage gauge hooked to the bikes system (thru an BMW outlet), I started the bike, got the headlights on, then killed the engine with the red kill switch LEAVING ALL THE LIGHTS ON.
The purpose is run the battery down on purpose. It took about 20+ minutes (with the brake light on too) to hit 11.5 volts and then STOP. Randy later found it was safe to go to 10.5 volts and do it twice. I chickened out and just did it once at 11.5 volts. When it acts up again, I'll try 10.5 volts, twice and see what happens.

The battery is now at approx 50% charge. I put a C-Tech de-sulfator battery charger set on HIGH (automotive setting-3.3 amps). It pulses the charge back into the battery. Kept an eye on the battery temp with a lazer temp gun and a fan blowing up into the bike (battery was still installed). The hard charge on a low batter, apparently helps retard the desulfation process..

Since then, my initial STATIC voltage was 12.4 volts, with dimming of the dash while cranking.

Now, static voltage is 13.4 volts, NO dimming of the dash light since while cranking (under load). Its been about a month and obviously worked. How long, don't know yet.
 
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TownsendsFJR1300 said:
Plus 1 on the above posts.

I've had the dual headlight mod literally for years, so both headlights lights are always on when running.

How to adjust the idle is in your owners manual
( Free download: Boneman's FZ6 Site - Mods )

As stated earlier, with both lights illuminated and the idle set at approx 1250, I checked my voltage. It was about 13.1volts, 13.2 volts, CHARGING. 2,500 RPM's, about 13.7 volts (plenty). If you have heated grips, I would probably turn them off if idleing a long time, (they tend to draw a fair amount of power).

**I probably shouldn't have mentioned idleing at 1,000, its just confused you and IS BELOW FACTORY SPEC's. I prefered it for engine braking and the bike idled SMOOTHER (no vibs in the mirrors). HOWEVER, my batter started showing signs of failure (dimming of dash while chranging over) so the lower idle (battery is 3 years old, ridden 365) has probably taken it toll.

_______________________________________________________________________________________________
Just as a side note for anyone interested, a battery life extender tip..

After speaking wth Randy and Cliff (I already have a new battery waiting to be filled/charged), I did a procedure that has stopped and apparently extended the life of my current, sulfated battery:

With a voltage gauge hooked to the bikes system (thru an BMW outlet), I started the bike, got the headlights on, then killed the engine with the red kill switch LEAVING ALL THE LIGHTS ON.
The purpose is run the battery down on purpose. It took about 20+ minutes (with the brake light on too) to hit 11.5 volts and then STOP. Randy later found it was safe to go to 10.5 volts and do it twice. I chickened out and just did it once at 11.5 volts. When it acts up again, I'll try 10.5 volts, twice and see what happens.

The battery is now at approx 50% charge. I put a C-Tech de-sulfator battery charger set on HIGH (automotive setting-3.3 amps). It pulses the charge back into the battery. Kept an eye on the battery temp with a lazer temp gun and a fan blowing up into the bike (battery was still installed). The hard charge on a low batter, apparently helps retard the desulfation process..

Since then, my initial STATIC voltage was 12.4 volts, with dimming of the dash while cranking.

Now, static voltage is 13.4 volts, NO dimming of the dash light since while cranking (under load). Its been about a month and obviously worked. How long, don't know yet.
Click to expand...

I see in your signature you said you have the PIAA headlights. Now do they run both high/low beam? Do they need ballasts?
 
Kingwu said:
I see in your signature you said you have the PIAA headlights. Now do they run both high/low beam? Do they need ballasts?
Click to expand...

Nope, they plug into the stock harness (same design as the stock H7 and H4), just puts out more lumens(light) for the same amount of watts as the stock bulbs.

High and low beams are exactly the same. Left side always low, with the BD43 mod, right side is NOW, ALSO on low. Flip on high beam, RIGHT SIDE turns on the HB element, turns off the low beam element (RS only).

Plenty of light for my riding, literally, plug and play..
 
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TownsendsFJR1300 said:
Nope, they plug into the stock harness (same design as the stock H3 and H4), just puts out more lumens(light) for the same amount of watts as the stock bulbs.

High and low beams are exactly the same. Left side always low, with the BD43 mod, right side is NOW, ALSO on low. Flip on high beam, RIGHT SIDE turns on the HB element, turns off the low beam element (RS only).

Plenty of light for my riding, literally, plug and play..
Click to expand...

(RS only) - What is that?

I plan on doing the BD43 mod, and getting HID's. Did yours come with a H4 and a H7 bulb? I rather buy the ones you got instead of all that ballast bullcrap.
 
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