Flyinace1
Junior Member
Got the right grease, but thanks. When I don't know something I'm not scared to ask the guy at the counter
Sent from my HTC One V using Tapatalk
Sent from my HTC One V using Tapatalk
Just got back from my ride and it would seem as tho cleaning the switch has worked. I'm not gonna say with certainty that it's fixed yet cause of the problems inconsistent behavior but I have hope
Sent from my HTC One V using Tapatalk
Glad my instructions/pictures helped you clean the switch.
Hopefully it'll help a lot of others.
:thumbup:
You have to turn off the power anyway at the key (if you forget, you have the joy of push starting!) or just put down the kick stand in gear and it'll turn off the engine..
The "burn" spots on the contacts of the switch I suspect are from some sort of welding action. I have done a great many tests where I have seen this with high inrush currents
Wether or not the above is true, I would think simply NOT using the switch EXCEPT IN CASE OF EMERGENCY would PREVENT the issue.
All the cases I re-call reading about, all the operators used the red kill switch regularly.
Could it be built more stout, sure.
But for what its designed for, IMO, emergencies, its fine.
You have to turn off the power anyway at the key (if you forget, you have the joy of push starting!) or just put down the kick stand in gear and it'll turn off the engine..
The "burn" spots on the contacts of the switch I suspect are from some sort of welding action. I have done a great many tests where I have seen this with high inrush currents due to large motor starters and or high power LEDs.
What I have seen, is during startup of these types of systems, for one to two milliseconds, tremendous inrush currents can be observed. Because the inrush spike occurs only for a very brief period of time - it approaches obscenely high temperatures and can actually cause the contacts of your switch to WELD to the armature that is actually doing the switching.
My question is, have you done any LED modifications? The switch is rated from Yamaha to meet the spec of the bike. Companies are notorious for doing valued analysis of parts and tend to pick the best price to quality compromise for component design. I would suspect because we have heard so many issues with the killswitch, that this would be one component they saved a few cents a piece on by choosing lower rated contacts.
If your adding large amounts of high power LEDs, be weary of the consequences that go hand in hand with their operation: its the nature of the beast.
(just thinking out loud)
I remember reading some posts where beginning riders are taught to use the Red, Emergency Kill switch first and foremost.
Why, I don't know (must be a reason).
This is what I was taught so I always used my kill switch. I didn't even realize it was supposed to be an emergency cut off switch, I thought it was simply a kill switch but I have since stopped using it
Did they give a specific reason for normally using that switch? Just curious..