07 fz6 cluster not working

[joshk5145]

Finally got back home and pulled the cluster off and cracked it open. Does it look repairable? I see a little corrosion on the connector pins but ill find something to clean those with. Hopefully you can see the place on the board that appears to need some attention at c34. Can I just drop a little dab of solder on there or do you think that is the problem?

 

[joshk5145]

If the pics don't show enough detail or if there is anything else you would like to see just let me know. Thanks again for all of your help! [MENTION=15974]FinalImpact[/MENTION]

 

[FinalImpact]

Looks like yer headed in the right direction. Please use all precautions regarding static. Touch items that are grounded to earth ground to discharge static, stove, water heater, computer case... handle it by the edges only, dont touch Styrofoam, or man made materials...

Cleanup. Isopropyl alcohol should cut some of that. A horse hair brush is best. Tooth brush is NOT favorable as it synthetic. If alc doesnt desolve it, soap and water will do, just need to warm it to get the moisture out.
So, once clean its a matter of looking (w magnification) to see any of the following.
Traces that are erroded through, lead that is no longer connected, things that should be connected that are not.
Great pictures. Clean it up and look for things that dont look right. You know how to solder?

 

[FinalImpact]

Any corrosion that is not stopped, will continue and takes its life later (corrosion keeps going), opening up traces. Clean it and ohm out from point to point to make sure it has a valid connection.
That whole line of pins connecting to the display needs cleaned and the holes through board (vias they are called) need to connect to the other side. For example, from the main connector, pick a pin and with your ohm meter touch the pin and follow it to its destination. It should basically read like shorting the leads of your meter together (well until it interacts with a component. What can you see on the other side? Or is it all coverer?
My concern is where it passes through one side of the board to the other, that its not a solid connection.

Anything thats left oxidized, can continue to oxidize until the joint fails. So, a fine tip soldering gun and some solder flux you can reflow the bad joints. Then clean the solder flux off with alcohol or electrical contact cleaner.

If you're out, grab an eye loop of 5X or maybe even 10X magnification will help see if the traces are eaten through. Off hand if this side is this bad, I really have to wonder what it looks like on the other side with the small surface mount components on it. Any chance salt from the roads is used in your area? Also a pic of the other side would be great.

 

[joshk5145]

I posted those pics on my iphone and I'm just looking at them on the computer. I'll have to say it doesn't look nearly as bad in person as it does in those pics. Mostly just dirty, I'm guessing it spent a good length on time without the boot over the connector. Yes, I can solder although my skills probably aren't much to brag about (mostly soldering harnesses and fixing key fobs) . Luckily we don't really get salt on the roads here in Georgia. I got rained out at work so I'll take the cluster to my buddy's shop today and see if we can make some magic happen. Once again thanks so much for all of your help and advice. O, and I'll take some pics of the front side as well. I shined a light under all of the surface mounted components and from what I can tell if looks significantly better than the back side

 

[FinalImpact]

I posted those pics on my iphone and I'm just looking at them on the computer. I'll have to say it doesn't look nearly as bad in person as it does in those pics. Mostly just dirty, I'm guessing it spent a good length on time without the boot over the connector. Yes, I can solder although my skills probably aren't much to brag about (mostly soldering harnesses and fixing key fobs) . Luckily we don't really get salt on the roads here in Georgia. I got rained out at work so I'll take the cluster to my buddy's shop today and see if we can make some magic happen. Once again thanks so much for all of your help and advice. O, and I'll take some pics of the front side as well. I shined a light under all of the surface mounted components and from what I can tell if looks significantly better than the back side

That's Good to hear!
On this end it looks like organic material is growing on it. Add the rusty bits from the iron parts and it doesn't seem favorable. You really have to wonder why they didn't coat it with something protective seeings its indirectly exposed to the elements. Conformal coating comes to mind.

Anyway - you might follow data pin from the connector and see where it branches off too (Y/L - Yellow w/Light Blue trace), but you also said it had no backlight so follow the ground and the power from the connector and look for open traces that might prevent the unit from getting the needed power to operate.

Let me know how the clean-up goes. also, you might consider something like this if you get it working. Its sealer for indiviual traces: Caig Laboratories CircuitSealer Conformal Coating Pen, 100%, acrylic-based | K-CS100P (KCS100P) | Caig Laboratories

 

[joshk5145]

What would you recommend as far as the best way to repair the trace? I've been searching and I've seen everything from running a small wire from point to point all the way to actually cutting out the trace and replacing it with a new piece.

 

[FinalImpact]

What would you recommend as far as the best way to repair the trace? I've been searching and I've seen everything from running a small wire from point to point all the way to actually cutting out the trace and replacing it with a new piece.

You found a damaged trace?
They call it mod wire. Roughly 32 gauge and insulated.
I'd opt not for scratching the coating off the middle of a trace but going from an exposed pad or via to another exposed pad or via. Use either super glue or non conductive tape to secure the wire if it spans more 20 mm.

EDIT:
---
Where trace repair is critical is likely high frequency applications. This application doesn't lend itself to lots of data at high speeds/frequencies so cross talk is not likely to be an issue. So a simple mod wire point to point jumper should be fine. Keep the run as short as possible, no long runs flopping in the breeze. Often times on the vias, bend the wire at 90° Cut it just long enough stay in the hole but not poke or contact anything on the other side, drop it in the hole and add solder. Go to the next point and call it done.
** Just trace the conductor out several times so you know you have the right place as you could damage components if power or ground is fed to the wrong pins of components. **
---

If it just happens to be a through hole component, wrap the wire around the post and reflow the solder.

Feel free to post up a picture and perhaps this will help others down the road.

Also - these parts may not be leaded solder (PbSn = lead/tin). It may be RoHos or LEAD FREE solder. Usually you can get away with adding lead to lead free for simple touch and go repairs but securing components can cause some splattering of solder.

Good luck.

 

[FinalImpact]

I found this, it shows a few options.

 

[joshk5145]

Quick update. I've got most of it cleaned decently, so far only 1 trace that I have found broken (using multimeter). Looks like I'll try to run a mod wire through the vias. All of the LCD traces are good. I still have to check some of the traces from \the main connector.

 

[FinalImpact]

So it looks like it cleaned up well and in this photo there is a pad or test point bottom of pic which to right goes to a via and the barrel around the via is gone?

Just above the Phillips screw?
You might be able to solder a wire in and test it, but if you can find the trace on the otherside, it may need to be cleaned and connected over there too.
Good job!

 

[FinalImpact]

Just now looked at this on the PC - at a glance the trace which looks suspect, is power or a ground as its 3X the width of the others and it also appears to go right to our connector.

You appear to have the bases loaded and a good clean hit could land you a home run and get everything working again! Fingers are Crossed! :rockon::rockon:

 

[joshk5145]

I was wondering about the barrel, it looks like it is missing on both ends of the trace. I'll try to do a little more looking on the topside and hopefully find a way to see it. I left my small soldering iron in my friends car when we soldered his harness back together. Unfortunately he is on his way out of state for the military, so I might have to wait a day or 2 to get it back. I'm pretty stoked though and it would be pretty awesome if this repair is successful!

 

[joshk5145]

The point in the picture you quoted has me concerned now. I did a little test and scrapped a little off of the trace to expose the copper and ohm'd out the bottom barrel to that place and still have a connection. Unfortunately when I try it with the top barrel I don't get a connection when I try to ohm it out. Also the opposite side of that barrel is directly under the lcd screen. I'm a little lost now. Looks like I may have to desolder the whole screen if I can't get this to work. If it comes to that hopefully I don't open up a whole new can of worms. lol

 

[FinalImpact]

I hate to say it, but yest it could.

So help me out here, you can reach both sides of the suspect area??

I'm about to change my song based on what we have to work with. I'm not sure if you grabbed some insulated "mod wire" of 32 gauge or not, if you didn't I see that suspect trace goes clear to the other side of the PCBA (Printed Circuit Board Assembly). Point being, No need to run wire that far so look at this and tell me what you think.

Is the trace A connected to Pad B?

If it were mine, I would use a round tip exacto blade and scrap off the non-green substance at B and try and see if it will Tin up with solder.

It looks like B is NOT connected to via C which means the place it goes too D on the other side has no gnd/power whatever it is. Can you reach D?

So, if you have some small gauge stranded wire, strip the sheath off and cut off a single strand of copper. Tin Pad B, shove copper wire through the via, add flux and solder wire into C and HOPE it connects to D.

That is one option. The other is to desolder that header and remove the display if you can't reach D and the trace it connects too..

Scrape the discolored stuff off the suspect trace. See how it looks. You WILL NEED TO TIN IT as the exposed copper is very susceptible to corrosion.

Let me know if this didn't make sense. I'll try and explain. Oh and what are those black blobs concealing?

 

[joshk5145]

I hate to say it, but yest it could.

So help me out here, you can reach both sides of the suspect area??

I'm about to change my song based on what we have to work with. I'm not sure if you grabbed some insulated "mod wire" of 32 gauge or not, if you didn't I see that suspect trace goes clear to the other side of the PCBA (Printed Circuit Board Assembly). Point being, No need to run wire that far so look at this and tell me what you think.

Is the trace A connected to Pad B?

If it were mine, I would use a round tip exacto blade and scrap off the non-green substance at B and try and see if it will Tin up with solder.

It looks like B is NOT connected to via C which means the place it goes too D on the other side has no gnd/power whatever it is. Can you reach D?

So, if you have some small gauge stranded wire, strip the sheath off and cut off a single strand of copper. Tin Pad B, shove copper wire through the via, add flux and solder wire into C and HOPE it connects to D.

That is one option. The other is to desolder that header and remove the display if you can't reach D and the trace it connects too..

Scrape the discolored stuff off the suspect trace. See how it looks. You WILL NEED TO TIN IT as the exposed copper is very susceptible to corrosion.

Let me know if this didn't make sense. I'll try and explain. Oh and what are those black blobs concealing?

Black blobs are the backsides of the reset and select buttons. A is not connected to B. D is underneath LCD screen. I think I will have to get to D to fix the problem.

 

[FinalImpact]

If it has to come off - youtube this "solder sucker" $15 to 20 and grab some solder wick of various sizes too. DS017 - EDSYN DS017 - Tools, Desoldering | Newark element14 US

You could likely have that off there in 15 min. I have some vacuum powered ones too. In short, with a solder tip, heat pin, retreat quickly once molten, drop solder sucker over through hole pin, hit release button and if all goes well, the solder from the hole is extracted.

If it does 90% you can either try again or use solder wick and the hot tip to extract what ever remains. Just don't heat too long or board can be damaged and pads lift off. Than you have more troubles.

PM me if you want. Perhaps can help out....

 

[Motogiro]

Great work on this!

I think you're prolly okay working in this area of the board with no IC's being lifted but if you're being static cautious an isolated or grounded soldering iron might be a good idea.

 

[joshk5145]

Thanks [MENTION=2579]Motogiro[/MENTION] Couldn't have gotten this far without [MENTION=15974]FinalImpact[/MENTION] Both of you seem to have tons more knowledge than I'll probably ever have with electronics. And I build overhead power lines for a living. lol
Not much happening today looks like I need to buy some new toys (tools). I'll look at those solder suckers. I only have a desoldering bulb right now.
on a side note I got my fz1 naked kit in the mail today!

 

[nthdegreeburns]

Luckily we don't really get salt on the roads here in Georgia.

Well -- not salt, but a helluva lot of gravel this winter. Mebbe when you get the speedo fixed and the naked kits one we'll pass each other on the road. North Atlanta here. Good luck with the repair.

Regards,
nthdegreeburns