Bi-Xenon projector with angel eye installed

[ElectroNick]

Hello,
Its been a month i have my FZ6 S2 and since its working properlly i looked forward for some visual upgrades.
So Morimoto H1 Bi-Xenon Projectors is one of them, yesterday received them and this weekend ill start retrofiting them. I am willing to go with the "painting the reflectors/shrouds" way and i would like to have a couple of opinions about that.
My idea is to paint the shrouds in carbon look with Hydrographics method, but i cant really tell from photos if shrouds are visible enough in order to make it worth the carbon look paintig rather than just matt black.
Secondlly, if its indeed worth it i would like to know how many degrees the headlight housing reaches. I searched to learn how heat resistant is hydrographics paint and it comes to 250-300 degrees.
Thank you in advance for your time, im willing to hear your opinions,

Nick

Edit: I just received a mail from a hydrographics specialist telling me that "the painting is so resistant as the clear coat is resistant. Till 120°C.You should use a very well clear coat as Glasurit products "

And a mail from my seller of the projectors Kit tellign me that " The headlights generally require 265F for 7 minutes to open them up, so your hydrographics should be perfectly fine. The plastics inside generally won't get above about 180F even being baked like this."

So by being sure that i wont have heating issues only matter is if shrouds are visible enough in order the hydrographics way to be worth.

 

[FB400]

The headlight housing will get a little warm to the touch from the outside but never what I would describe as being hot. No way it is heating up past 100 degrees unless the ambient temperature is close to 100 degrees.

Use whatever paint you want and yes the shrouds are very visible from the front and sides of the bike so you will want to paint the shrouds to match.

When I did this I was most concerned with the paint adhering properly to plastic so I went with Krylon fusion for plastics. There are simliar rattle can products out there made just for plastics. Although it tells you you do not have to sand the plastic I found out the paint peeled off very easily when dry. Use an 800 grit of finer to surface the reflector bowls and the shrouds before painting

This project actually can be enjoyable if you take your time and don't try to rush it. If you were planning on doing this all in a weekend, that is all you will do!! and IMO that wouldn't be much fun.

Good luck. Come back here if you have questions

 

[ElectroNick]

Thank you for your reply FB400,

Firstly, i agree that we have to give space and time to a modification like this.
Secondly, i guess you are refering to Plastic Primer as for the spray...
Your opinion generally for the shrouds painting is the very first mature opinion i get and i am glad u are positive

Cheers,

Nick

 

[ElectroNick]

Regards my friends ,

I just finished the specific conversion. The conversion actually needs space and time idd, but I will add patience because apart from the fact that most of the conversion is follow the steps whith a little research Combining manuals from the kit, forums with lighting and natural forums of this motorcycle , there are some points which are improvisation ( eg application of LED rings in shrouds and cable management on the bike ) .

The procedure is as follows :

A) Remove puss

1 ) Remove the A, B and C panels ( see manual Engine ) . 2 , 2 and 6 screws Alen respectively .
2 ) Remove the mirror . 4X No.10 nuts
3 ) Remove gelatin . 6X plastic screws .
4 ) Disconnect the two plugs left
5) Disconnect the connector of the display. If you do not succeed are three screws + 1 Alen ground in order to come out with the puss .
6 ) Pull the puss .
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B ) Remove the lens of the puss . 5 screws

1 ) Remove the circular tire lamps
2 ) Remove the protective clip of lamps ( 1 +1 bolts )
3 ) Remove the H4 (left) and H7 (right) lamps .
4 ) Remove the two lamp post top left and top right .
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C) Open Headlight Housings

1 ) Turn on the oven at 100 , does not need more if the go - lens by lens is the best
2) Place the lens in the oven for 7 minutes ( do not close the thermostat ) .
3) With gloves and a screwdriver you first open the clips and then with some angle lantern , will open very easily and only with hands .
4) Remove as much glue as you with the screwdriver as you will put fresh later .
5) Repeat from 1 to 4 for the other lens.
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D) Preparation of shrouds

1 ) Whet small ring that each shroud has on top of them, so the LED rings apply smoothly. Calculate the cable to pass through one of the bottom (style vents ) gaps . The up and down of the shrouds you will know by the holes for the screws of projectors at their rear .

2) If you intend to apply the LED rings above shrouds with wires and not high-temp glue then this is where you pierce the shrouds with 1mm drill . Three holes in a triangle shape all around the shroud will be enough . At this point to say that the recommended method is wire because of the combination of temperature and turbulence . I personally did not get to find anywhere tie wire less than 1mm. I only had the option of a bouzouki string. However, the string is " naughty " and difficult bondage and so i fled to the high-temp glue solution.
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E) Painting reflectors and shrouds

1 ) Thoroughly clean the reflectors and shrouds.
2 ) Spray 1 coat of primer for plastic
3 ) Spray 2 coats of Matt black with a one hour break between the two layers.
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F) Placement of the projectors at headlight housing

1 ) Screw the projectors in shrouds. 4 screws for each.
2 ) Unscrew the bulb holders of each projector and the big nut.
2) For the H4 light ( left ) take the big silicon washer, place it behind the projector and place it onto the reflector by passing throught the hole the solenoid and LED cables .
3 ) We come from the back of the headlight and put the H4 metal adapter and then screw well by pressing from the front (the shroud) one of the nuts loosened in step 2 .
4 ) Repeat for the other projector the steps above, just use the little silicon washer and the metal adapter for H7 .
see manual of the projector by the Companys' web site to know what is every part for)
http://imageshack.us/a/img703/8799/xmj4.jpg
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G) Close Headlight Housings

1 ) Place the black glue provided onto thegroove that makes the back of the headlight . Little stretching will help to micrin thickness to avoid overflow of the glue which would prevent us to close the clips .
2 ) As we did at the opening, put the headlight housings in the oven at 100 constantly for 7 minutes and hold the top closing clips for one to two minutes by the time u remoove it from the oven.
3 ) repeat, for the other lens .
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H) Screwing lanterns in puss and wiring

1) Place the OEM wiring behind the lights . It will center itself if you put the body of the display connector between the lenses .
2) With 5 screws put housings on puss .
3 ) Screw the 3 screws on the bulb holders
4 ) Remove carefully H1 bulbs and clean with alcohol wipes included in the kit. Place them in recesses.
5) Pass the protective metalware clips on the supports of the lamps .
6 ) Put back the position lights and connect .
7) Cut a bit of the terminals of LED rings and put them onto the position lamps plugs. It's kind unofficial way but if you are sure about the stability i beleive it is much more practical than the cut and jumper of the wires, note that there is not much room there. Unless you manage to find power supply from the battery or the main plug left.
8) At this point we get the wiring harness of the kit and connect according to the tags . We have 2 ballasts and central Motocontrol. Connect the Motocontrol with the H4 connector, with the ballasts and with the solenoids plugs for the high beam , which we make ourselves. The ballasts should be connected on the plugs of the H1 bulbs.

(At this point I was lacking knowledge, i had in mind that H4 adapter will give me both high and low beam :banghead: and so i isolated the H7 wires by tiring them up. So eventually everything works well except my low beam . This is because the wire harness of the Kit comes only with H4 adapter on the Motocontrol. My question is, whenever i reopen the bike where should i connect the H7 (low beam) OEM wiring?! I suggest i have to take the black with green stripes cable (low Beam-H7) and jumper it to 1 of the 3 wires of the H4 plug ( |_| White, blue or Brown)?! would that work?

9)!! If and only if you figure out what to do with the low beam wiring go on from here!! Apply the ballasts with double sided tape on the sides and the Motocontroll under a headlight housing,finally tuck the wires by tiring them up. I circled the ballasts with rubber and tire up for more protection .

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I) Replacing puss on the bike

1 ) Push and screw the puss by centering the two holes in the center frame.
2 ) Screw the dial and link connector and grounding.
3 ) Connect the grounding of ballasts. I suggest the nuts that hold the metal piece where the bottom screws of A and B panels go. There, the ground is close to the ballast and the wire isnt bothered by the handlebar steering .
4 ) Connect the positive of the Motocontroll to the battery (No.10 nut). Pass it between the posts,under handlebar and through a hole that there is close on the tank opening on the side.
5) A final tidying of cables at this point would be good.
6 ) Screw the mirrors
7) Replacing the C, A and B panels.
8) Screw windshield .
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Time spent: 6 hours and money spent 250 euro.

I hope this Post to help anyone who wants to deal with this conversion, however its my pleasure to share my experience , cause others have helped me in the first place : P

Finally, I hope to figure it out with my low beam connection . " Enlight me ": D

 

[HaChayalBoded]

Going through 16 pages and 650 posts I couldn't find the answer to this.

Anyone happen to know what the beam angle is on the various models?

I see the Morimotos are significantly wider than the eBay counterparts. I'm guessing 35 degrees as apposed to what seems to be 20 degrees.

While I'm here, has anyone had a chance to handle or test out a set of 35 watt kits side by side with the same kit in 55 watt trim? I'm assuming that the 55 watt kits might be a bit too hot for the factory reflectors to handle.

I'm assuming the wattage difference is just a different bulb correct?

And finally, since most of the talk about where the kits were purchased is years old, whats the consensus on where to pick one up today. There is one guy on eBay based out of Florida that has the correct H7\H4 setup specific to the FZ6 for $199.

But I have found single projector kits, complete, sans ballast for $39. link

I see some decent slim ballasts, German made, for $29 (single ballast) and $55 for two. Non German made ballasts can be had for under $10 each (shipped)

Anyone see a reason I should not go with two of the above kits and 2 slim ballasts purchased separately?

The Morrimoto kit is top notch and seems to be the best setup out there, but at less than a third the price I am thinking of going the cheap eBay kit route.

 

[Motogiro]

Regards my friends ,

Finally, I hope to figure it out with my low beam connection . " Enlight me ": D

There often seems to be questions regarding switching on the FZ6 headlamp system. From what I've seen on past projector kit installs, the ballasts are powered directly off the battery and the turn on signal is the low beam headlamp signal. That low beam signal is strictly used to activate the ballasts and is not used for any significant power.
Most headlamp systems that use the H4, dual filament incandescent lamp circuit controls incorporate a switching configuration that turn off the low beam filament when the high beam is turned on. For obvious reason this would not work well at all with projector type HID systems so companies provide a converter relay that makes the switching plug n play.
If you have a naked FZ6 that was designed with a single H4 headlamp the low beam will turn off when the high beam is activated.
If you have a faired version of the FZ6 the OEM set up does not turn off the low beam. In fact it doesn't use the low beam filament on the right side H4 at all. The bd43 wire or Motogiro relay kit does this so that you can convert to a naked single H4 setup or light the low beam filament on the right side headlamp with the proper switching for the H4 lamp. The advantage of using the OEM headlamp circuit as the turn on signal is that the FZ6 headlamp circuits are off until the engine is started. This gives the advantage of more starting current for the bike. After the engine has started the ECU allows the headlamp relay to operate and the headlamp circuit is then active.

If you have the faired FZ6 the original, black with green tracer, color coded wire is the low beam wire and perfect for using as your HID projector control wire because it does not turn off when the high beam is activated and only comes on after the engine has started. The high beam, black with yellow tracer, would be used for the shutter/solenoid activation.

If you have a European naked bike the low beam will be switched off during high beam operation. For this set up you might go direct to the headlamp relay (Yamaha calls it a dimmer relay) and pick the green wire for your steady headlamp signal because it will not be switched off. Hope this makes sense and will help in more efficient use of power on you HID projector setup.

 

[ElectroNick]

If you have the faired FZ6 the original, black with green tracer, color coded wire is the low beam wire and perfect for using as your HID projector control wire because it does not turn off when the high beam is activated and only comes on after the engine has started. The high beam, black with yellow tracer, would be used for the shutter/solenoid activation.

Thank you for your reply u are very informed and you 've been very clear.
My model exactly is Fazer FZ6R S2 '08, so yes i am among the originals/full face as you mentioned but on S2 it is left the H4, right the H7 and there is no that black/yellow stipes wire (for high-beam there is just a 3 wire setup White,Blue,Brown on the H4 plug). The plan should work as you described, always on Low Beam and High beam on when OEM Switch or the Signal switch on, but still my kits' Control has only input for H4 plug, i have isolated the Black/Green Stripes wire and its' ground which is idd the H7 power supply (low beam). Theoretically that H7 wire should be plugged onto the control of the kit, practiclly... how? since no input for H7?!. The solenoid activation by the way is powered directlly by the motocontrol.

 

[ElectroNick]

By the way i found that diagram and i am thinking of hooking the positive H7 (black/green) wire with the #2 position of the H4 plug switched low beam positive power. Would that do the job?

 

[Motogiro]

Thank you for your reply u are very informed and you 've been very clear.
My model exactly is Fazer FZ6R S2 '08, so yes i am among the originals/full face as you mentioned but on S2 it is left the H4, right the H7 and there is no that black/yellow stipes wire (for high-beam there is just a 3 wire setup White,Blue,Brown on the H4 plug). The plan should work as you described, always on Low Beam and High beam on when OEM Switch or the Signal switch on, but still my kits' Control has only input for H4 plug, i have isolated the Black/Green Stripes wire and its' ground which is idd the H7 power supply (low beam). Theoretically that H7 wire should be plugged onto the control of the kit, practiclly... how? since no input for H7?!. The solenoid activation by the way is powered directlly by the motocontrol.

Here in the US the FZ6r is the bike pictured below.

The bike you have pictured is the FZ6 S2.

I'm guessing your controller is using headlamp voltage? Your ballast should get's it's main current from the battery, correct?

The main thing is you have high and low beam function and the ballasts don't do a hot start when switching between hi and lo beams.

 

[FB400]

It would be recommended to run ballasts off of a relay and there are pre-made harnesses available out there to make this easy. The harness accepts + and - signal from the headlight socket. To wire in high beam you need only take the + from the high beam. Most harnesses have an H4 plug that goes into the H4 headlight. This won't work for Hi/Lo unless you have some dual headlight mod done. An easy way around this is to connect the low beam triggers to the H7 side and connect the Hi to the H4 wire that is for high beam

 

[ElectroNick]

Here in the US the FZ6r is the bike pictured below.

The bike you have pictured is the FZ6 S2.

I'm guessing your controller is using headlamp voltage? Your ballast should get's it's main current from the battery, correct?

The main thing is you have high and low beam function and the ballasts don't do a hot start when switching between hi and lo beams.

Yes my fail, the FZ6 S2 i got not the R, would be awsome to have this bike in Greece though.
My ballasts are powered directlly from the controller, just the controller is powered manually by the battery.
I dont think is something wrong with he ballasts since i havent even wired the low beam function wire somewhere.

 

[ElectroNick]

It would be recommended to run ballasts off of a relay and there are pre-made harnesses available out there to make this easy. The harness accepts + and - signal from the headlight socket. To wire in high beam you need only take the + from the high beam. Most harnesses have an H4 plug that goes into the H4 headlight. This won't work for Hi/Lo unless you have some dual headlight mod done. An easy way around this is to connect the low beam triggers to the H7 side and connect the Hi to the H4 wire that is for high beam

I cant beleive i spent that money for a kit that needs extra modification and isolation of its' own parts. Im staying with the idea of wiring the H7 low beam positive wire with the #2 position of the H4 plug and hope it works

 

[ElectroNick]

Its fixed. Thank you all for your time and replies. Despite the fact that company admitted they sent me wrong harness i managed to bring the low beam function(H7 positive) to the #2 position of the Motocontroll H4 plug (white wire). Simple as duck. :thumbup:

 

[biofractral]

Hi guys...

Good Day!

Could anyone tell me if I just install the HID bulds(with blasts of course) as a replacement of the standard halogen without the projectors??? Would it produce a good light or the light will scatter all over the place? All I want is to avoid the pain of opening the head lights by removing the clear lens to place inside the projectors

THANK YOU!

 

[killertofu9]

Finished aiming my fz6 retrofit. Just need to seal them up. TRS mini H1 6.0, 35w 6000k

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[killertofu9]

Finished aiming my fz6 retrofit. Just need to seal them up. TRS mini H1 6.0, 35w 6000kView attachment 65282View attachment 65283

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

 

[Lil Jim]

Hello! i am new here and i want to purchase this kit of projectors + angel eyes etc. i found some cheap kit at ebay that i think they will do the work! i have some questions if you can help me.
1)if i read correct, i should buy one full kit of 1pc of H4 projector and one for H7?right?or it can be one kit H4(or H7) with some adaptors that change the plug?will it fit?
2) i found this kit at ebay 2X 2 5" Motorcycle Bike HID Bi Xenon Projectors Lens Kit Halo Angel Devil Eye AC | eBay and i am wondering if the 2.5'' and 3'' will fit? better 3''?this kit i can see that there are no shrouds right? buy extra shrouds?

Thank you in advance!!!

 

[jor600s]

Hello Everybody, I'm really interested in this topic and would like to buy the angel eyes. Do you have any suggestion where is the best place to buy?

 

[trepetti]

I was researching these some time ago and thought 'theretrofitsource' was a really good source. They are expensive but sell only quality stuff.


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[FB400]

I went with TRS with the promise of better quality. the V5 mini H1 projectors high beams failed within a little over a year. total junk if you ask me. I had to convince a supervisor there to replace them under the 2 year warranty. I was expecting better. so the the V6 has been good.. until they fail too