What the2wheels don't tell you LED stalks

FinalImpact said:
How'd this plate light work out; any better? Do you still need lit match to see it?


PS - those guys no longer Return my messages. . . Although I would be jumping to conclusions to say "paying more" for product will get you better service if something goes wrong, that is not always the case. However a basic response about HOW you product is supposed to work would be kinda nice! Plus a 30 day warranty isn't much for a signal that's supposed to last for years. . . I'm just saying most of us don't intend to swap signals every month. I give them 3 thumbs down. . .
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It is brighter but the one sent did not have the post design like the picture showed.:rolleyes:
 
Ruggybuggy said:
Had a chance to look at the problem at work. Fixed it! Just use a diode on the red stop wire. Worked perfect.
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That's what I was showing in the diode isolation schematic I posted a while ago. Looks like the brake light goes to ground potential (through the bulb) when it's not 12 V positive and that's where the current path may be created....

Randy said he tried this and now I'm thinking he had some bad diodes?

Good job! :D
 
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Motogiro said:
That's what I was showing in the diode isolation schematic I posted a while ago. Looks like the brake light goes to ground potential when it's not 12 V positive and that's where the current path may be created....

Randy said he tried this and now I'm thinking he had some bad diodes?

Good job! :D
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Sadness as I tried three different ones, 2 of which were unknown PNs but had the body of a 1n400X series. The other was 1N4007 which tested good but didn't solve the problem.

Maybe I should quit filtering through my junk pile. . . :rolleyes: Cliff, any reason a 007 shouldn't have worked?
 
Ruggybuggy said:
Had a chance to look at the problem at work. Fixed it! Just use a diode on the red stop wire. Worked perfect.
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This is good news as you can see I'm fed up with the whole take the bike apart to test it thing. . .

GooD job! AND if you don't mind me asking, what flavor did you use?
 
:rolleyes:
FinalImpact said:
Sadness as I tried three different ones, 2 of which were unknown PNs but had the body of a 1n400X series. The other was 1N4007 which tested good but didn't solve the problem.

Maybe I should quit filtering through my junk pile. . . :rolleyes: Cliff, any reason a 007 shouldn't have worked?
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I think the big difference would be Peak inverse voltage (PIV) and/or forward voltage rating. The 4004 is 400 volt and the 4007 is 1000 volt. Both are rated 1 amp forward.

So maybe you can put a diode, anode to the brake light source voltage, and see if yours will isolate and work now? The circuit is seeing the ground through the brake lamp filament when the lamp is in it's socket.

If it works send your buddies an email with the fix.:rolleyes:
 
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OK - I finally dug up functioning diode (a new one unlike the ones I tried) and walla - a simple 1N4001 diode in series with the BRAKE power to the stalks and it works!

Now to make something for the tail light. . .
 
I ordered the the2wheels front & rear LED stocks plus motodynamics integrated tail light. Plan is to remove the existing stocks and replace with the2wheels and replace tail light.

Since everything will be LED do you think I'll run into a similar issue?
 
rivettm said:
I ordered the the2wheels front & rear LED stocks plus motodynamics integrated tail light. Plan is to remove the existing stocks and replace with the2wheels and replace tail light.

Since everything will be LED do you think I'll run into a similar issue?
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Since it's LED it will probably be okay. If not it's a simple fix with a diode. :)
 
The issue on the back is specific to the brake lamp being in place, but it all depends on the motodynamics circuits design. If the circuit only sees LEDs than it should be OK. Its when sees a path to ground that the duplicates the problem I had. So you might just order some new diodes through another source like Digikey or something like that. 1N4004 grab about 4 and share with your friends!

PS the Amber tips on the stalks are not as visual as the OEM lamps. I'm contemplating another rewire and using the stalks brake lamps as turn indicators. But doesn't the motodynamics unit also do turn indicators? IDK
 
Yes it does. I purchased a y-harness so I can use the integrated lights in the motodynamics as well as the ones on the led stocks.

I'll be disappointed if the new LED lights aren't as bright as the stock ones. Hopefully combined with the integrated tail light it'll be better.

Thanks for the write up. I'm sure I'll be referencing it during the installation. I should have some diodes around from when I did a year of electronics but not sure if I can identify if they are 1n4004. I think I mixed them all together.

FinalImpact said:
The issue on the back is specific to the brake lamp being in place, but it all depends on the motodynamics circuits design. If the circuit only sees LEDs than it should be OK. Its when sees a path to ground that the duplicates the problem I had. So you might just order some new diodes through another source like Digikey or something like that. 1N4004 grab about 4 and share with your friends!

PS the Amber tips on the stalks are not as visual as the OEM lamps. I'm contemplating another rewire and using the stalks brake lamps as turn indicators. But doesn't the motodynamics unit also do turn indicators? IDK
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Thanks, good to know I'm not crazy. I was running into issues with these and the motodynamics integrated turn tail light. When the led stalks were wired in as running lights the tail light wouldnt always dim after releasing the brakes and the quick stop would randomly flash while holding the brakes after the initial brake pull. So I just have them wired up as turns and brakes, they are off otherwise and the tail light is the only running light, no issues with this setup. My other complaint is I have noticed the black metal housing has begun to fade to gray after only 6 months from sun exposure it would seem.

Sent from my Sony Tablet S using Tapatalk 2
 
Ruggybuggy said:
I didn't real find that. The light is small but plently bright. It's the same as the front ones running the DRL's but amber. Maybe I do a video and post it.
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Just saying IMO and that of others who follow me - money is better spent elsewhere. I'll run them for bit with my eye's open for replacement. . .
 
FinalImpact said:
Cliff, why not the 1n4001? It's not like we're gonna exceed the 50V rating? Although its what i used and it works, why use the higher rating??
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You are correct but I feel because of inductive spikes the system can see with switches, I like to err on the side of caution so there is a better chance of junction survival. That's the funny thing about semiconductors. They are not forgiving if your a nanosecond over it's rating. The 1n4001 is probably okay but since he's got a 1n4003/4005...:)
 
It's been a long time since I was in that electronics course. :) I don't remember covering diodes so maybe I withdrew before we got to them. It was fun but something I felt was more a hobby than a career for me.

Motogiro said:
You can use the 1n4003 or the 1n4005 :D
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