Raffe
Junior Member
I wonder if anybody has extended their cap bolts on the forks with enough space for installing clipons without having to lower their bike?
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Extended cap bolt for clipons
- Thread starter Raffe
- Start date
WOW - i'd be a little hesitant on that for fear of the cap twisting loose from the repeated loads imposed.
It just doesn't seem like a good idea - if it comes loose - you crash and burn, well that is assuming you intend them for grips and not some accessory?
It just doesn't seem like a good idea - if it comes loose - you crash and burn, well that is assuming you intend them for grips and not some accessory?
CBRF3RIDER
Junior Member
I was thinking the same thing. Seems like the clip-ons would act as a lever arm and make the bolts loose, similar to a strap style oil filter wrench on an oil filter.
Raffe
Junior Member
Lets say that you need to lower 1.75 inches for the clipons.
By having a cap extended 2 inches you only need to lower the forks 0.25 inches.
That means that a part of the cap extender is holded by the clamp.
And if I remember it right the CBR1100XX clipons have a little thing sticking out that fits right into the gap of the clamp and that way holds the entire clipon molded on the bike.
Does that make any sense?
Sorry for my poor english...
By having a cap extended 2 inches you only need to lower the forks 0.25 inches.
That means that a part of the cap extender is holded by the clamp.
And if I remember it right the CBR1100XX clipons have a little thing sticking out that fits right into the gap of the clamp and that way holds the entire clipon molded on the bike.
Does that make any sense?
Sorry for my poor english...
Thinking out loud. . .
If your set on going this route I'd opt for having the top triple gripping the two parts together at the seam. As an added measure - cross drill the triple to the extender cap with a set screw. Downside; this will raise the nose unless you re-shim the spring which would cost you some amount of fork travel.
The other option is this:
At the bottom of your clipon, drill it for pin to run parallel to the fork tube. Drill the top of the triple to receive the pin. When the slipon is fitted to the cap, the pin will connect it to the triple and will not allow rotation. Actually this is better and easier than the first idea. The only issue being its not easily moved (Bar angle) if you find your not happy with the position chosen...
Anyway - even with RED Loctite - I'm not sure I would trust it.
If your set on going this route I'd opt for having the top triple gripping the two parts together at the seam. As an added measure - cross drill the triple to the extender cap with a set screw. Downside; this will raise the nose unless you re-shim the spring which would cost you some amount of fork travel.
The other option is this:
At the bottom of your clipon, drill it for pin to run parallel to the fork tube. Drill the top of the triple to receive the pin. When the slipon is fitted to the cap, the pin will connect it to the triple and will not allow rotation. Actually this is better and easier than the first idea. The only issue being its not easily moved (Bar angle) if you find your not happy with the position chosen...
Anyway - even with RED Loctite - I'm not sure I would trust it.
Raffe
Junior Member
Crap.. I realised that by having a 2 inch extender I raise the bike which I DON'T want.
But let's say the extender would be 1,25.
This way I would only need to lower the bike 0,5 inches, AND it gets secured in the triple at the seams...
Second option does not sound right as I do not want to drill any extra holes or have more bolts.
visions
THAT guy
just put the clip ones below the tree, get riser clip ons.. i did this works fine, and my steering geometry is unchanged
ctbandit
Fazer, don't even know er
What kind are u using?
visions
THAT guy
Woodcraft 2.5" rise & 10mm forward spacer :thumbup:
Raffe
Junior Member
Oh well... I think I will go for the FZ1 bar instead.
Anyone looking for CBR1100XX 2003 clipons, they are for sale now...
Anyone looking for CBR1100XX 2003 clipons, they are for sale now...
Do you have the caps?
Drilling the hole is NBD.
Line it up and ram it home. Drop a pin in. Done. Caps are expensive tho I bet. Under tree clamps would be better if the rise it correct to fit you and clear the tank.
Ps - with the pin there is likely no need to push the forks down. Can you snap a picture of the clipons?
Drilling the hole is NBD.
Line it up and ram it home. Drop a pin in. Done. Caps are expensive tho I bet. Under tree clamps would be better if the rise it correct to fit you and clear the tank.
Ps - with the pin there is likely no need to push the forks down. Can you snap a picture of the clipons?
CONFIRMED!!!!!! WITHOUT DRILLING AND PINNING THIS IS A BAD IDEA!!!
Cap torque is 11 to 17ft/lbs pending on the model. I have some R6 forks that need the oil changed. After seeing the torque was so LOW I free-hand grab the fork shaft and with the other hand and 1-1/8" wrench broke both the caps loose on these forks. Hint the wrench is maybe a foot long but my grip held long enough to get the caps free on forks that are NOT installed on a bike or in a vise!
I'm just sayin. . .
Cap torque is 11 to 17ft/lbs pending on the model. I have some R6 forks that need the oil changed. After seeing the torque was so LOW I free-hand grab the fork shaft and with the other hand and 1-1/8" wrench broke both the caps loose on these forks. Hint the wrench is maybe a foot long but my grip held long enough to get the caps free on forks that are NOT installed on a bike or in a vise!
I'm just sayin. . .
Raffe
Junior Member
I do not have the caps and was thinking about order them from a local CNC worker.
I attach a shot of the clipons.
They are for sale now as I will go on with FZ1 straight bars instead.
CBR1100XX clipons for sale
Last edited:
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