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NGK iridium spark plugs

Wonder what my Iridium Plugs looks like? I have over 53,000 miles on them. I changed out the stock plugs back at 20k. They were fine by the way.
 
How did you find this plug fits? Is there any other brands of (iridium or standard) plug that can be considered?[/QUOTE

I found it fits by several methods,

(1) Searching here on the forum ,

(2) Going to official NGK site, bring up your bike, it'll show the standard
plug AND the high performance exact replacement Iridium plug
(with the part #) that also fits.


Going thru Amazon they were less than $30 delivered to my door. The local auto parts store could order them but I had to prepay, pay tax, wait 3-4 days and spend another $10.00 (about $40.00 total OTD)..

For the NGK brand, its one or the other unless you want to change heat ranges for some reason. As for other brands, I'm sure there are, do a search.
I personally like NGK plugs for my bikes and wouldn't consider another brand.


BTW, my original plugs with 10k miles looked fine and could have gone another 10k. I really didn't feel any change in performance.
I just bought a wire type ("L" shaped) feeler gauge as that's the only way to check/or gap the stock plugs. It can also be used on the iridiums..


Something brought up earlier re anti seize on the threads from NGK, its a no no in most cases:

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/TB-0630111antisieze.pdf
 
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Thanks TownsendsFJR1300. When I was looking on NGK Spark Plugs USA all they gave was the standard plug. I take it there is no difference in the engines between S1 and S2?

This is the application chart site: NGK Spark plug, NGK Spark Plug wire, NGK Platinum Spark plug for High Performance and Racing.

I just checked and it doesn't show either an S1 or S2. Check your manual and see whats recommended. I strongly suspect its the same as my FZ6.

Note, for my 07, NGK doesn't go that high a year, so I compared an earlier model, it was the same plug exactly, so I found the Iridium equivilant (also posted on this forum elsewhere)
 
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Wonder what my Iridium Plugs looks like? I have over 53,000 miles on them. I changed out the stock plugs back at 20k. They were fine by the way.


In many stock applications in the auto world, iridium life is =>100,000 miles. If it doesn't use oil and runs stock fuel map, I'd inspect and re-install if they look good. No reason to chuck them.

However - performance plugs do have different wear rates. For example Denso suggests 30,000 miles on performance based plugs. Follow the plug manufactures suggestion according to part # installed.


As for the gap, the combustion chamber design, A/F, intake/exhaust scavenging and ignition system output all work together to determine a plugs gap. This was determined by the engine manufacture!


My 2 cents:
With all the coil pack failures observed around here, having a gap greater than the Yammi specified puts you at risk of having arc-over (engine mis-fire) occur somewhere other than the plugs electrode to ground.

As such a compromised coil, coil wire, plug cap, or plug can allow arc-over to occur at the defective component vs the plugs gap leading to engine mis-fire, stumble, hesitation, etc.
 
are you sayin that I drop stuff here at autozone? :rolleyes:
cuz i may just develop butterfingers next time I go get spark plugs for people lol

You don't work for those delivery guys tossing TV's over the fence or literally pitching an order to a house from his truck do you??? ;)

Stuff happens!

Actually I got mine thru Amazon. Three had a gap of the specified .031", one was .030". All were in the original boxes, with the round cardboard safety around the threads/electrode....

As noted above, an NGK tech told me to check them carefully (with a wire style gauge) as does the above posted video...
 
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In many stock applications in the auto world, iridium life is =>100,000 miles. If it doesn't use oil and runs stock fuel map, I'd inspect and re-install if they look good. No reason to chuck them.

However - performance plugs do have different wear rates. For example Denso suggests 30,000 miles on performance based plugs. Follow the plug manufactures suggestion according to part # installed.


As for the gap, the combustion chamber design, A/F, intake/exhaust scavenging and ignition system output all work together to determine a plugs gap. This was determined by the engine manufacture!


My 2 cents:
With all the coil pack failures observed around here, having a gap greater than the Yammi specified puts you at risk of having arc-over (engine mis-fire) occur somewhere other than the plugs electrode to ground.

As such a compromised coil, coil wire, plug cap, or plug can allow arc-over to occur at the defective component vs the plugs gap leading to engine mis-fire, stumble, hesitation, etc.

Just a note, although my original plugs were very clean, the gaps were quite wide, .030-.032" way beyond spec's, and the bike ran great. As far as I'm concerned, (and I've read of the coil failures) for a gap that wide on stock plugs, I can't complain about Yamaha coils or their ignition system, at least in my 07... :D
 
I just got 4 new ngk iridium plugs (ebay, $30 free shipping!) and on the box was a sticker that said "WARNING: ATTEMPTING TO REGAP THESE PLUGS WILL DAMAGE THE ELECTRODE"
 
I just got 4 new ngk iridium plugs (ebay, $30 free shipping!) and on the box was a sticker that said "WARNING: ATTEMPTING TO REGAP THESE PLUGS WILL DAMAGE THE ELECTRODE"

Please play the video in post #19, this is from the NGK WEBSITE...

They are supposed to be gapped correctly however, like in my case, one was .001 smaller than the rest. As the NGK tech told me(I posted the NGK site # above) check the gap carefully (DO NOT USE FORCE AND ALSO USE A WIRE STYLE GAUGE).

When I checked mine, I started with a much smaller wire gauge and worked up to .030" and .031. You can open the gap if you bend the ground out WITHOUT TOUCHING THE ELECTRODE, it all in the video.

If you stick a flat regular feeler gauge in there, yes, you'll likley destroy the plug and if you move it up and down to open the gap (like a standard lawn mower plug) you will destroy the plug.

BTW, my boxes the iridiums (NGK) just show installation, 1/2 turn beyond snug, nothing about do not gapping..

I torqued mine down to the minimum for 10mm threads per their website,(NO ANTI-SEIZE) a bit below Yamaha's recommended 13ft lbs.. I also left the gaps at .030" and .031" as I didn't have the correct tool at the time (I do now) to open the electrode at the base... I wasn't overly concerned about .001" as they'll open some with wear and time anyway..
 
.001" is not going to be a noticeable difference even at the redline.... like maybe you could see something if you were on a dyno with a computer hooked up to every cylinder monitoring EVERYTHING
 
Been using IR's for years in my bikes. Gap, smap... I never even checked them other than the eyeball look, but good to know not to mess with them with the wrong tool. The bike's runs fine.
 
Just installed them in my bike. Did not think it would be so much different against the original plugs. The bike is going alot better since I changed them and I can just say that I am really impressed. But then the come from Sweden :rockon:
 
Whoops.

Oh well, guess I'll remember for next time.

I always use antiseize on my plugs, used it for the last set of iridiums and used it for the set i put in a couple weeks ago.

Pretty simple solution: DON'T OVERTIGHTEN THEM! All they need to be is hand tight, then 1/8th of a turn with a wrench.
 
I saw this post today and I wanted to replace my plugs soon. I was very impressed with a video demo I saw on the Iridium versus standard plug and bought 2 plugs for the SV. They go in tomorrow. :BLAA:
 
I saw this post today and I wanted to replace my plugs soon. I was very impressed with a video demo I saw on the Iridium versus standard plug and bought 2 plugs for the SV. They go in tomorrow. :BLAA:

You wont regret it :Flash:
Just as SovietRobot, dont overtight them. I used a torque wrench just to make sure.
 
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