Q? Remove the Top triple/Can I unplug the Ignition Switch?

[FinalImpact]

I want to paint the top triple clamp. Can I remove the top triple and leave the ignition switch in the triple (unplug it easily) or do I have to extract the anti-theft bolts leaving the switch on the bike?

Thanks!

EDIT: 2013-03
See post #21 for complete story:
Fork Stanchion Holding Triple for drilling process:

 

[FinalImpact]

I want to paint the top triple clamp. Can I remove the top triple and leave the ignition switch in the triple (unplug it easily) or do I have to extract the anti-theft bolts leaving the switch on the bike?

Thanks!

- Bump -

Refining the question. Can the wires and connector attached to the switch be removed from the bike without major disassembly under the tank? The drawing in the service manual doesn't provide enough details as to where the harness terminates.

Thanks

 

[skooter65]

I want to paint the top triple clamp. Can I remove the top triple and leave the ignition switch in the triple (unplug it easily) or do I have to extract the anti-theft bolts leaving the switch on the bike?

Thanks!

- Bump -

Refining the question. Can the wires and connector attached to the switch be removed from the bike without major disassembly under the tank? The drawing in the service manual doesn't provide enough details as to where the harness terminates.

Thanks

If you are only painting (not powdercoating or baking) you should be able to leave the ignition switch in place.

As for the harness disconnection: I would put aside an hour or two just to get to the plug; I think the placement was a cruel joke by Yamaha. The plug is located in the left frame rail (as sitting on the bike) and is tucked in under the main wire routing of the bike. The leads are short and access is very limited. I removed the tank, airbox, battery box, and moved some additional wires to get to mine. Perhaps someone could chime in if there is an easier route.

 

[FinalImpact]

If you are only painting (not powdercoating or baking) you should be able to leave the ignition switch in place.

As for the harness disconnection: I would put aside an hour or two just to get to the plug; I think the placement was a cruel joke by Yamaha. The plug is located in the left frame rail (as sitting on the bike) and is tucked in under the main wire routing of the bike. The leads are short and access is very limited. I removed the tank, airbox, battery box, and moved some additional wires to get to mine. Perhaps someone could chime in if there is an easier route.

Thanks Skooter!
Ouch! I was afraid of that when I couldn't see the connector which makes sense when you think in terms of "theft".

It'll likely get done when the springs get installed then. Not worth the time and effort to me at this moment. For that matter may as well put some head bearings in while its down to nothing. . .

She's still less than 9,000 miles but the work is the same.

 

[CBRF3RIDER]

Wouldnt it be easier to just remove the ignition from the triple? You just need to cut off the security bolt heads with a dremel and it should slide right off. Way easier then going through the trouble of unpluging it.

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-...wo-bolts-holding-ignition-top-fork-clamp.html

 

[FinalImpact]

Wouldnt it be easier to just remove the ignition from the triple? You just need to cut off the security bolt heads with a dremel and it should slide right off. Way easier then going through the trouble of unpluging it.

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-...wo-bolts-holding-ignition-top-fork-clamp.html

Cause I was looking for things I could do quickly. . . And that aint it. Lift the tank and unplug harness, NBD. Flipping the tripple, drilling or slotting the security bolts and then replacing the bolts isn't in the "grab a hand full tools done in a hour" kinda project I was looking for. Esp after scuffing and painting.

Thanks for the link tho. It confirms its PITA. lol

 

[CBRF3RIDER]

Haha yea I just suggested it because im going to powdercoat my triple over the winter and im going to have to pull the ignition. I guess in my head it seems like an easier task then its probably going to be. Ive been trying to convince myself that its not going to be difficult....

 

[FinalImpact]

Using me a Guinna pig??? :spank: :spank: :spank:

I thought I'd just pull it and then do the springs later - but its enough to do the springs, oil, bearings and hey, the triples on the floor - lets paint it!

Enjoy and post up some pictures. . .

 

[CBRF3RIDER]

Using me a Guinna pig??? :spank: :spank: :spank:

I thought I'd just pull it and then do the springs later - but its enough to do the springs, oil, bearings and hey, the triples on the floor - lets paint it!

Enjoy and post up some pictures. . .

Maybe :innocent:

Let me know how the painting goes! My original plan was to paint the triple myself and just have the rearsets powdercoated, but the shop I went to said they would do the triple, clamp and bar for no extra charge. Im hoping to get it done in November, but it might be a little later.

 

[Kenward]

I'm glad you guys are posting this, haha, I'm gonna be removing the triple and ignition to install my new triple and clip-ons as soon as I finish grinding and having them powdercoated. I think I'd rather just cut the old bolts out myself. :/

 

[CBRF3RIDER]

Just removed my triple a couple minutes ago. It was extremely easy. Once you get the triple off the forks you have really easy access to the bolts. There is just enough slack on the ignition cable to give adequate clearance when you lift the triple. Im not going to grind off the bolt heads right now because its late and I don't want to wake everyone up lol. Seriously should be a 5 minute job with a dremel though.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[FinalImpact]

As months/years pass - finally going to do this.. .. ..
http://www.600riders.com/forum/how-tos/31241-how-remove-top-triple-painting-fz6n-pic-heavy.html

Thanks stink989

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

We replaced the upper stock triple for an aftermanrlet one on my friends 07 FJR (same set up). Obviously, the ignition switch had to go into the new upper triple.

The company supplied a guide to start a drill bit bit you could do it without.

Just drill the head of the security bolts off (thier regular grade botls and drill fairly easily with a sharp bit), and slide off the ignition switch. With the triple now off, take a vise grip to the remaining studs (usually lock tighted in) and remove.

After painting, etc, replace with SS bolts (I'd use allan heads, a little safer) with some locktite, done.

PS, put a large blanket over the gas tank/front fender, etc, maybe a shop vac while drilling the two bolts, keeps metal sharps form doing evil things..

Also, obviously have the bike on the center stand. Use a sizzor jack under the header and [I]just get the ft wheel lightly touching the ground[/I]. The triple will slide on and off easily (keeping any load off it)..

This is MUCH FASTER than un-plugging and if you have to pull off the triple again for maintainance, even faster yet...

 

[fazil]

What if you use this guy?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

What if you use this guy?

That'll work but sparks are going to fly and you may nick the switch. I'd be nervous about shooting a hot spark of steel into some plastic and melting into it... If you cover all around might be ok, just don't catch fire with those sparks as there WILL BE A BUNCH..

The drill is a bit more controlled and shards, NO sparks....

 

[FinalImpact]

What if you use this guy?

And saw it off at the stanchion tubes!!! Hell Ya!!! :BLAA: << Just giving you crap. It's all good!

I brought this thread up as I found a link to one with pictures. My plan is to flip and drill. Vice grip the section of stud that remains. If the harness allows I'll flip and stick the inverted triple onto the stanchion tube and clamp it there. If I need to slide them down to make the cables reach, I may do that. It only needs clamped on one side. Really no need for blockling under the bike. The lower will hold it just fine.

I'm pumped to a see an actual Metallic Black Powder coat for me this makes it worthwhile as I feared the keys would tear up the paint. I ordered this:

Here is a powder coat option. A sample is headed this way in the mail.

Check this out:

YAMA BLACK
Item: PMB-5718

Description:
A black with a metallic finish
Prismatic Powders: PMB-5718 YAMA BLACK

Tags:
Yamaha Black metallic powder coat

>> Hint: http://www.600riders.com/forum/how-tos/31241-how-remove-top-triple-painting-fz6n-pic-heavy.html

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-...-can-i-unplug-ignition-switch.html#post526109

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

And saw it off at the stanchion tubes!!! Hell Ya!!! :BLAA: << Just giving you crap. It's all good!

I brought this thread up as I found a link to one with pictures. My plan is to flip and drill. Vice grip the section of stud that remains. If the harness allows I'll flip and stick the inverted triple onto the stanchion tube and clamp it there. If I need to slide them down to make the cables reach, I may do that. It only needs clamped on one side. Really no need for blockling under the bike. The lower will hold it just fine.

I'm pumped to a see an actual Metallic Black Powder coat for me this makes it worthwhile as I feared the keys would tear up the paint. I ordered this:

Here is a powder coat option. A sample is headed this way in the mail.

You can lay the triple on the blanket near the tank and have a buddy hold it while drilling.

I would strongly recommend some slight support just keeping the front wheel on the ground lightly, it'll keep everything lined up..

 

[FinalImpact]

You can lay the triple on the blanket near the tank and have a buddy hold it while drilling.

I would strongly recommend some slight support just keeping the front wheel on the ground lightly, it'll keep everything lined up..

If my plan works, the bike holds it for me and I'll take a picture. If the cables to short. My son holds it.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

If my plan works, the bike holds it for me and I'll take a picture. If the cables to short. My son holds it.

I speak from experiance with a much heavier FJR.

Also, as an FYI, if the bars wil be off for awhile (ie, re-greasing the steering head bearings), I have a hook that goes thru the garage ceiling into a 4x4 accross several rafters (for pulling car engine/transmissions).

I'll hook two motorcycle tie downs to the handle bars (with soft ties) and the hook. Gently pull the strap adjuster and lift the bar off the bike to what height you need. It can now stay there indefinitly if need be.. One person job also..

 

[FinalImpact]

I found that keys really are required to remove the triple. To bad those are 30 miles away. lol