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Rear shock pre-load hard to adjust

Erci

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I change the preload on my bike often (3 for solo and 6 for 2-up). However, it seems to have become real difficult to adjust. It's taking way too much force to go to harder setting (especially the last click from 5 to 6).
Do I need to pop the whole thing out and lube it or is there an easier way?
 
I change the preload on my bike often (3 for solo and 6 for 2-up). However, it seems to have become real difficult to adjust. It's taking way too much force to go to harder setting (especially the last click from 5 to 6).
Do I need to pop the whole thing out and lube it or is there an easier way?

Try shooting some teflon silicon or other lubricant on the adjusting nut threads if you can get it in there without disassembly. Otherwise you may have to remove it from the bike.
 
Tried the silicone spray yesterday.. didn't seem to help much. LOL @ count.. yeah.. it'd suck to try to get it into *8*
Neh.. I look through the slot to make sure I'm in the right place when I adjust it. Thanks for ideas though!
 
Try to lube the little "nub" that is spring loaded and holds the collar in place. That is what I would imagine makes it hard to turn........
 
I change the preload on my bike often (3 for solo and 6 for 2-up). However, it seems to have become real difficult to adjust. It's taking way too much force to go to harder setting (especially the last click from 5 to 6).
Do I need to pop the whole thing out and lube it or is there an easier way?
Two tips: are you using the extension for the tool? (the pipe with one end flattened) and have you removed the left side pod under the seat. That makes it easier for me.
 
Two tips: are you using the extension for the tool? (the pipe with one end flattened) and have you removed the left side pod under the seat. That makes it easier for me.

Yup, I use extension tool.
Left side pod under the seat?? You lost me :don'tknow:
 
OK.. I finally sorted this out. Silicone spray didn't help, but what did help was thick synthetic grease applied to the grooves and knob with long thin art paint brush :D
Changing preload is absolutely effortless now :D
 
Sorry. I meant the left-side plastic fairing cover thing that covers the relays etc. You probably did do that anyway! :D

Ah.. THAT thing :D No.. I never removed it to adjust preload. Really the problem was that it just needed to be greased up. It's very very easy to move in either direction now :)
 
hey guys, Im new to my 07 fz6 and I need to stiffen up the rear spring/shock since I weight 250lb. I dont see what you guys are talking about with the numbers. I dont even know if it comes with an adjustable shock. If it does and Im blind please post some pictures for a how to on adjusting the rear shock. Thanks
 
Yes the 07 definitely comes with an adjustable rear shock. Open up your tool-bag under the seat and you should find the tool to use to adjust it. Looking at the rear shock from the side you should see some numbers and a little nub indicating which number it's currently set to. I think stock they come set at 3.

Also I'm about 240lbs with gear and I run my rear at the "7" setting and it seems to work pretty well for me.
 
Something we used to do on other rides to unload the shock for adjustments like this:

You sit on the bike and compress the coil-over assembly. While compressed you insert two "U" shaped metal clamp over the springs spanning from one end to the other. This isn’t thin tin, it has some substance like ¼” thick steel at least ¾” wide. In each case the custom clamp is made to fit each spring.

This is not for everyone, but for people who adjust often it might be worthwhile;

You sit on the bike, collapse the spring, insert spring clamp (15 seconds). Get off the bike, adjust collar (it has NO load on it now), sit on bike, remove spring clamps. You could be done in as little as minute.

Hint we taped the ends up so they wouldn’t knock the coating off the spring.

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The ends must be curled like above to stay on the spring and not fly off. With some strap steel and torch these can be made in 15minutes. Of course the ends would actually be rounded like the spring for best fit.

Keep it in mind. Let me know if you have questions.
 
Something we used to do on other rides to unload the shock for adjustments like this:

You sit on the bike and compress the coil-over assembly. While compressed you insert two "U" shaped metal clamp over the springs spanning from one end to the other. This isn’t thin tin, it has some substance like ¼” thick steel at least ¾” wide. In each case the custom clamp is made to fit each spring.

Neat idea! I use the same approach on chains to hold the links close together without tension, as I work on the master link.

Gotta tell you though, ever since I greased my preload adjuster, turning it in either direction has been effortless.
 
Neat idea! I use the same approach on chains to hold the links close together without tension, as I work on the master link.

Gotta tell you though, ever since I greased my preload adjuster, turning it in either direction has been effortless.
Any pictures of the pre-load adjuster your talking about?
I want to lube mine, but do it in th right place.

Nelly
 
. . .
I want to lube mine, but do it in th right place.

Nelly

I think she said that before. . . . :don'tknow:

It’s a personal choice mate :thumbup:
The voyeur in me still wants some pictures of where to lube.

Nelly

:eek: :eek: :eek: :thumbup:

The contact points where the friction is greatest; aka the shaft where the adjust collar rotates contacts the springs flat end and shock body. . .

OK - I'm trying be good, but its hard! :rolleyes:
 
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