regearing? how?

[lonesoldier84]

i would like to regear my machine for days i wont be at the track or really needing to rip around.

i find when its geared as it is, the bike really wants me to go quicker than perhaps i should. if i were to regear it so it would behave in a more docile manner and pull a little bit stronger at lower revs at the sacrifice of higher rev power.

how would i do this though? do i need to buy new sprockets or some kind of plate? you are correct to assume i only have a vague idea of how i would go about this.

soooooo....what do i need to buy and how do i do this? not expecting an indepth step by step explanation (Tho thatd be great ) but a nudge int he right direction would be helpful.

thanks all!!

 

[abacall]

I have been looking into this as well. Sounds like a sprocket change is in order.
However, keep in mind that the tall gearing on the FZ6 keeps it pretty docile.
You have 2 options here, either you go with lower gearing or higher gearing. Lower gearing will give raise the RPMs of the engine and give you more power throughout. It will (theoretically) lower top speed, but will get you more snap.
Higher gearing will drop engine speed at any given speed and will result in less power delivered and more relaxed ride.
Aside from putting the engine higher in the power band, the lower gearing allows for more efficient transfer of power.
Reducing the size of the front sprocket and raising the size of the rear will lower gearing and raise power.
Raising the size of the front and reducing the rear reduces power delivered.
If you want a good visual, ride a bike mountain bike.

Popular gearing for the FZ6 is -1 tooth on the front sprocket, or +2 on the rear. Some do both.
I (think I) am going with -1 in the front and -1 on the rear. This is to give me more snap but without adding too much buzz from increased engine speed.

Oh yeah, keep in mind that you should do all sprockets and chain at the same time. A good setup is about $250 total. Don't go cheap on the chain!

 

[Wavex]

As a rule of thumb, -1 in the front = +2 in the rear... so you can pick which one you want to change, knowing that it is cheaper and easier to change the front sprocket (not sure if you'd need a new chain if you did +2 rear). You obviously don't want to drop too many tooth on the front though since you need to take the bend radius of the chain into consideration... long story short I would NOT recommend anything lower than -1 in the front (if you need more you'll have to look at increasing the # of tooth to the rear).

If you want more to FEEL more torque at lower RPMs, just start with -1 in the front... that way you don't have to change anything but the front sprocket (keep the stock rear sprocket and chain). If that is too much, you can do what Abacall suggested, which is to change the rear sprocket to -1, but I personally don't think doing that will make much of a difference at all.

Oh yeah, keep in mind that you should do all sprockets and chain at the same time. A good setup is about $250 total. Don't go cheap on the chain!

If your chain is in good shape and you only want to drop a tooth on the front, you don't need to change anything but the front sprocket ($20).

 

[nimzotech]

Rear Sprocket (-1): Vortex

I'm about to purchase the Vortex 530 Chain Cat 5 rear sprocket.

What is the best way to remove one tooth? I'm thinking dremel or saw? Also, do I cut the tooth at the very base?

 

[nimzotech]

Never mind the above, if our stock rear sprocket has 46 teeth one may simply order the 45 T sprocket ;-).

 

[Wavex]

lol yeah dremeling a tooth off your 46t won't make it a 45t sprocket!!!(sorry bro but LOL @ that question... think about it for a second!!!).

Oh and I'd recommend you stay away from Aluminum sprockets (which is what you show in the pic above if I am not mistaken)... they will wear much faster than a steel sprocket for no reason (on streets).

 

[DefyInertia]

Re: Rear Sprocket (-1): Vortex

lone...I don't understand. Maybe pull a spark plug or two!

What is the best way to remove one tooth? I'm thinking dremel or saw? Also, do I cut the tooth at the very base?

:BLAA: :thumbup:

 

[Wolfman]

Hey Lone, i run a 520 set up on my black bike, and until i changed the chain & sprockets yesterday. Until Yesterday, i was running -2 front, +1 rear (14/47)...this is considerably shorter than stock gearing of 16/46. This resulted in a bike, that pulled like crazy from about 5500rpm, rather than 7500-8000rpm, but rendered 6th gear useless as an overdrive, but made the bike pull hard all the way to redline in every gear, including top gear...top speed is also considerably reduced...by about 25km/h.

Yesterday i changed the chain & sprockets, in fact i put the 520 set up that was on Pinky when i bought her...14/46, which is -2 on the front, stock at the rear...

The difference is now i still have decent pull from lower down than OEM gearing, but with 6th gear back as an overdrive of sorts...

If you wanna make the thing more docile around the city, then lengthen your gearing, either -1 on the rear sprocket, or +1 on the front...

This will give you more docile acceleration, but a higher top speed, but it will take you longer to get to top speed.

Hope this helps...

:thumbup:

 

[nimzotech]

My bad Duh!
I took the meaning of -1 little too literally LOL.:surrender:

 

[lonesoldier84]

Re: Rear Sprocket (-1): Vortex

thanks for info ill try to figure it all out over the next few weeks.

i just want to change the characteristics of the bike so it is more docile around town and not always screaming at me to rev the piss out of it which inevitably gets some adrenaline flowing which ALWAYS turns a nice cruise through the countryside into an out and out rip.

 

[Wolfman]

Re: Rear Sprocket (-1): Vortex

thanks for info ill try to figure it all out over the next few weeks.

i just want to change the characteristics of the bike so it is more docile around town and not always screaming at me to rev the piss out of it which inevitably gets some adrenaline flowing which ALWAYS turns a nice cruise through the countryside into an out and out rip.

Dont you hate that, get all geared up for a gentle blat, then you get on the bike, and it eggs you on to go a bit harder than you intended...evil fizzer!!!

It's horrible!

 

[lonesoldier84]

Hey Lone, i run a 520 set up on my black bike, and until i changed the chain & sprockets yesterday. Until Yesterday, i was running -2 front, +1 rear (14/47)...this is considerably shorter than stock gearing of 16/46. This resulted in a bike, that pulled like crazy from about 5500rpm, rather than 7500-8000rpm, but rendered 6th gear useless as an overdrive, but made the bike pull hard all the way to redline in every gear, including top gear...top speed is also considerably reduced...by about 25km/h.

Yesterday i changed the chain & sprockets, in fact i put the 520 set up that was on Pinky when i bought her...14/46, which is -2 on the front, stock at the rear...

The difference is now i still have decent pull from lower down than OEM gearing, but with 6th gear back as an overdrive of sorts...

If you wanna make the thing more docile around the city, then lengthen your gearing, either -1 on the rear sprocket, or +1 on the front...

This will give you more docile acceleration, but a higher top speed, but it will take you longer to get to top speed.

Hope this helps...

:thumbup:

ah yes. very good. shortening the gearing and bringing in more power down low would actually make the bike more maniacal.

im actually not sure if this is will make the bike docile like i want it to, though. it will mean less acceleration but the engine will still want to be higher up in the rev range.

the main problem is the revs i think. sometimes i just want to cruise around putting about barely on the throttle.....well it just never lasts because of the way the engine is set up. its as though at lower revs its whining "oh come on rev me i hate you pleeeeeease rev meeeeee" then you rev it up a little bit and its like "oh yeah more more more more" then you hit the sweet spot in the power band and for a brief moment the engine is like "yeaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhh" then you shift up and its back to "oh come on rev me i hate you pleeeeeease rev meeeeee"............

i think what i will end up doing is to stop trying to turn the bike into a docile tourer (because i dont see it being that effective) and accepting her for what she is.

so conclusion i think ive come to: i think i will shorten the gearing and make her more maniacal. i dont often get up over 200kph anyway so i wont be bothered by the loss of top gear usefulness.

but the info here definitely is very helpful and gets me started. thanks all.

 

[lonesoldier84]

Re: Rear Sprocket (-1): Vortex

Dont you hate that, get all geared up for a gentle blat, then you get on the bike, and it eggs you on to go a bit harder than you intended...evil fizzer!!!

It's horrible!

it really sucks for me because i have several playlists on my mp3 player and i cant change em while riding. some days i gear up and put on my "easy rider" playlist full of songs by the eagles and the like very gentle stuff.....then before i know it im ripping around and just not feeling the music anymore.

 

[Wavex]

Re: Rear Sprocket (-1): Vortex

Hey lone, keep in mind that gearing changes won't EVER fix the rider If you can't control yourself with the stock gearing, I doubt you'll be able to no matter what sprocket you buy (I have the same problem btw...).

 

[Wolfman]

Re: Rear Sprocket (-1): Vortex

it really sucks for me because i have several playlists on my mp3 player and i cant change em while riding. some days i gear up and put on my "easy rider" playlist full of songs by the eagles and the like very gentle stuff.....then before i know it im ripping around and just not feeling the music anymore.

Time to strap the old Pioneer multi CD deck to the back seat Lone!

 

[lonesoldier84]

Re: Rear Sprocket (-1): Vortex

@ everyone though:

so a gearing change means i will probably be buying a new chain, and 2 new sprockets (one front one rear)? If I'm changing them will I also need to mess around with the setting for idling revs? Will I need to fiddle with anything or just change those 3 components and it's sorted?

I am on the fence about whether to gear up or down actually, but will decide as it gets closer (saving up some money to do a bunch of mods on bike all at once).

other mods will be all new plastics and new paintjob, new seat, and a ton of preventative maintenance as well.

 

[Wolfman]

Re: Rear Sprocket (-1): Vortex

Hey lone, keep in mind that gearing changes won't EVER fix the rider If you can't control yourself with the stock gearing, I doubt you'll be able to no matter what sprocket you buy (I have the same problem btw...).

Lol! how true....the old lead wrist syndrome...

:rockon::rockon::rockon:

 

[lonesoldier84]

Re: Rear Sprocket (-1): Vortex

Hey lone, keep in mind that gearing changes won't EVER fix the rider If you can't control yourself with the stock gearing, I doubt you'll be able to no matter what sprocket you buy (I have the same problem btw...).

lol...yeah thats why im thinking i might as well give in and gear her down for more power down low....After a day or two ill probably get bored of not having the grunt.

Time to strap the old Pioneer multi CD deck to the back seat Lone!

LOL

 

[Wolfman]

Re: Rear Sprocket (-1): Vortex

@ everyone though:

so a gearing change means i will probably be buying a new chain, and 2 new sprockets (one front one rear)? If I'm changing them will I also need to mess around with the setting for idling revs? Will I need to fiddle with anything or just change those 3 components and it's sorted?

QUOTE]

Nup, nothing else needs to be touched, just change the chain & sprockets, and enjoy your new gearing, whichever way you go, up, or down, you probably wont notice the difference anymore after a few rides, will just seem "normal" after a while...

 

[Wavex]

Re: Rear Sprocket (-1): Vortex

Stop the madness and start with -1 front sprocket... see how it goes with that and if you think you need more than invest in a +2 rear + chain.

With what I know of you from this board, I reaaaally don't think you want to go the opposite direction (less power down low for more fuel economy).