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Increasing Stator Output - Rewinding Stator.

Oh shoot. I was hoping we got to the punchline by now.

I didn't want to read all of this thread (I know lazy - sorry) just want to know if we can make the stator give us more power.

Dennis
 
This gets pretty complicated, and from a few figures I have calculated based on the given figures it looks pretty easy to burn some bits of kit out.

One reading that has to be very accurately known is the resistance of the winding as a very small variance will give a large variation in the calculation.

Also the winding resistance will rise as the temperature rises, so when starting the bike on a cold day, the alternator will produce the greatest amount of power.

To work out the wattage produced you need to use this formula.

Voltage across the open output of the alternator (rms value) a
Minus the battery voltage b

a-b=c

The result c is then divided by resistance which gives current d.

The current is then multiplied by regulator output voltage (14.2) to give watts.

Next we can calculate the power being dissipated by the regulator (assuming it is the shunt type).

This is ~ c*d

The main issue is going to be getting an accurate resistance reading, the guy that wound the alternator will know the resistance/metre and the length of winding so will have a fairly accurate calculation of this value.
 
Sorry guys, I was supposed to take baseline readings this last weekend, but ran out of time. My two week vacation starts tomorrow, so I'll be able to get to it then.

I hadn't realized that the tank had to be lifted to reach the stator connector, so I'd been planning on it being a ten minute job.

I promise I'll get the numbers.

Fred
 
Ok so I got the numbers from Fred.

Turns out I lost power based on the numbers he supplied. I have contacted Gary a few minutes ago and he has asked me to ship the stator back to him and they will try some different wire. He said he wont stop till we see some increase out of this stator. Talk about customer service...

I will keep yall posted. Guess this is just part of being the guinea pig. lol

-bryan
 
I need to repeat this test when a bit warmer but basically here is what I found while warming my bike up today (roads still frozen so no chance of a ride). I decided it was a good time to get my volt meter out and see at what revs the bike would be charging.

Put simply the theory goes that if the battery voltage when the bike is running is higher than the battery voltage with the bike stood (ignition on) then the battery is not being discharged.

This is a 2008 FZ6-N

At tick over (1100rpm) the bike is just about holding it's own, I would guesstimate that the battery is not being charged at this rpm, or if it is it is only a slight charge current. Put the brake light on and it looks touch and go as to whether the battery is being slowly discharged or the bike is holding it's own.

If I put my heated grips on at this point (approx same as having the dual headlight mod) then it looks as if the battery is being discharged.

Now here is the surprise (to me anyway after all I have read on here), run the bike at 1500rpm and the battery is definitely being charged as the voltage is up to 14.2v, it holds 14.2v with the brake light on or off.

Turn on the heated grips at 1500rpm and the battery is still being charged, however the voltage is nearer 13.8v, rev to 2000rpm and the voltage again maxes out at 14.2v

So by the looks of it at tick over the bike is just about holding it's own when loaded with standard kit.

At 1500rpm the battery is being charged when loaded with standard kit.

At 2000rpm the battery is being charged when loaded with standard kit plus an extra 4amp load (eg dual headlight mod or heated grips).

I will get my professional meter and logging software on the system next time and confirm the above.
 
That's quite similar to what I 'saw' when I did the same experiment last spring.... sure does seem like a bad idea to lower the idle speed from 1300, doesn't it?

These readings assume the battery is almost completely charged, as well....... if it's seriously depleted, this would not be the same sorts of numbers for however long it took to recharge the battery.
 
Im expecting my stator back sometime this week, hopefully tomorrrow.

I am installing the Acuman DGV tomorrow after I pick it up from the post office. It will be interesting to see how the voltage changes when changing from high to low beam along with the other electronics on the bike.

-bryan
 
I am subscribing as this interests me too.

I had dual headlight mod and a cell phone charger running almost nonstop last summer on my 10 state trip with no issues. I was also running LED signals and tail light though so that surely helped some.

I am now running 35w dual HID projectors along with all the LED's so I am actually using less power than stock right now. :rockon:

I don't ride enough in the cold to make heated grips worth the effort. It was four degrees fahrenheit this morning when I got out of bed at 8am. My bike will find its way out of the garage in Feb or so.
 
Well it should be here tomorrow or Thursday. Talked to Gary yesterday afternoon and he said he would have it out of the shop today. (Tuesday) Said he was going to make it hot, so we will see what that means. lol

-bryan
 
OK so the stator came back.

Same numbers....

I have the DGV installed and the meter is showing numbers between 14.4 and 13.6 while I had it running.

However one thing I noticed now is how hot the ignition cover is getting.

I ran Dad's FJR for a while and then checked the temp with a temperature gun and got around 140 degrees off the side of the cover in the center.

My bikes cover was around 120ish after sitting for a few minutes, however the cover was much hotter to the touch still than Dads was.... not sure why.

Any one on here have a temp gun and mind getting a reading just to see?

-bryan
 
OK so the stator came back.

Same numbers....

I have the DGV installed and the meter is showing numbers between 14.4 and 13.6 while I had it running.

However one thing I noticed now is how hot the ignition cover is getting.

I ran Dad's FJR for a while and then checked the temp with a temperature gun and got around 140 degrees off the side of the cover in the center.

My bikes cover was around 120ish after sitting for a few minutes, however the cover was much hotter to the touch still than Dads was.... not sure why.

Any one on here have a temp gun and mind getting a reading just to see?

-bryan
You really should check the temperature of the voltage regulator. All of that increased capacity is being discharged as heat, and it won't be long until the nylon wire connector melts or the regulator simply burns out.
 
You really should check the temperature of the voltage regulator. All of that increased capacity is being discharged as heat, and it won't be long until the nylon wire connector melts or the regulator simply burns out.

Exactly. It sounds like the voltage regulator is doing it's job. However extra unused capacity will definitely be discharged by the regulator as heat. You can't increase the stators capacity without also increasing/upgrading or at least evaluating all of the other downstream components like the voltage regulator and the wiring between it and the battery for their ability to handle the extra current.
 
You really should check the temperature of the voltage regulator. All of that increased capacity is being discharged as heat, and it won't be long until the nylon wire connector melts or the regulator simply burns out.

If the voltage regulator is the aluminum (?)finned device that is bolted to the underside of the frame just below the seat behind the motor...then the temp is fine. It did not get hot when I was running it. I was keeping an eye on that.

Not sure where the regulator is on our bikes, or what that box does but I thought it had something do with the charging system. And the fact that it has fins on it makes me think that it must get warm!

-bryan
 
If the voltage regulator is the aluminum (?)finned device that is bolted to the underside of the frame just below the seat behind the motor...then the temp is fine. It did not get hot when I was running it. I was keeping an eye on that.

Not sure where the regulator is on our bikes, or what that box does but I thought it had something do with the charging system. And the fact that it has fins on it makes me think that it must get warm!

-bryan

The Regulator/Rectifier is in the same housing. Sounds like you've found it. It's an integrated unit with a heat sink (fins). Go take the bike for a ride where you have a RPM's up and then check the temp of the Regulator/Rectifier. As Cali rider said it will dissipate the additional energy as heat.That starts to happen when the internal resistance of the battery increases during it's full charge state. Then as the output of the stator is no longer needed it is shunted and the extra unused power is turned into heat and dissipated in the air through the heat sink. So in essence if the battery is not at full charge it will use the rectified stator output and the regulator will not shunt the output (little or no heat). Also if you have the bike sitting at idle where there is low stator output, again the regulator doesn't need to shunt (little or no heat).
Take it for a ride....Bet it works just fine and hopefully you'll be getting a little better stator output at a lower rpm, as planned with the new winding.
 
Once the rest of my parts come in and we come out of this freaking freeze I will take it on a ride to see what it does. Currently waiting on a countershaft sproket to come in so I can finish installing my new chain and then the bike will be ready. Since school starts Monday and the parts wont be in till tuesday at the soonest :( Im stuck till next weekend.

Oh well though.

Thanks for the help guys. I will be calling Gary back next week and talking some more.

-bryan
 
Any update?

Hey Bryan,

I was just curious (as I'm sure others are) if there was any update with the latest replacement stator? I figure that you're busy with school, but spring break should be around the corner. :)
 
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