I got a problem

[zmeiaspas]

Hey everyone!

I decided to change my oil and after fighting for a couple of minutes with the friggin drain plug (yes previous owner apparently is a moron) here is what I found:

View attachment 20427

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and the worst part is the housing doesn't look any better

Needless to say I am pretty pissed. I think I'll go to the nearest service/shop/dealership and I'll buy a new drain plug to see if the bolt will manage to make a new thread and tighten up. If this doesn't work what would you guys say: make a new thread or change the entire oil pan?

I am pretty new to working on any type of vehicle so I thought changing the oil will be my first project ... and it turned into this mess. Quite frankly I'd rather leave it in the service and have it done quick as I really would prefer to ride rather than wrench but now with no oil in it I can't even get it to the service.

Anyone dealt with this issue before? God I feel like killing the moron who did that ... :rant:

And also I have another question: I went to autozone and got an oil filter wrench size "F" ... I tried it on the Mobil1 oil filter and it seemed to fit well, I came back home and used it to get the old filter out and it worked but now whenever I try to put the new filter on it won't stay on the Mobil1 filter and it will just come out (and yes I use a torque wrench set to 12lb). So my other question is if oil filter wrench sizes 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, etc are different from A, B, C, D, E, F, etc? I'm guessing yes, but I want to make sure they really are different size types. If you're using mobil1 filters, where did you buy your oil filter wrench from?

Cheers everyone and thanks in advance for the help!

 

[sxty8goats]

chances are that the threads in the pan are done. If you put a new bolt up there, it will most likely come out looking just like that one. First thing to do is to clean the threads. Get a proper tap and run it up the existing thread. It will cut out the metal that is stuck between the existing threads. It may even leave enough thread to allow you to use a new bolt of the same size.

If there is not enough thread there, you will have to go up one size. I'm not sure what size the drain plug is but it will be defined by 2 or 3 numbers. The first two are the diamiter (slightly smaller really) And the pitch. The third number will be the legnth.

So if it is a 12 - 1.75 x 30 That would be a 12 mm bolt with 1.75 threads per mm and 30 mm long after the head.

I don't have my charts with me but you may get lucky and find that the next size up is only a mm larger and has the same pitch. That makes running a larger tap up the existing hole/threads easy. so if it is a 12 - 1.0 and you find a 13 - 1.0 the repair is easy as running a 13mm x 1.0 tap up the existing hole, Pooring oil through to clean out the chips an installing a larger plug. If it does not have the same pitch and / or is larger than a mm in diamater, you will have to drill out the hole before re-tapping it.

IF you tap / drill with the pan on the bike, be very careful not to drill too deep and damage something inside the bike. I normally build a stop to prevent drilling too deep. And do no forget to flush oil through to clean out any chips pushed into the pan. I tend to use a thin oil and pour the quart through a couple times straining through a screen to remove chunks before I re use it.

It is best to pull the pan and do all that on a bench, then you know it is clean going back on and there are no bits floating around.

 

[wrightme43]

There are available selftapping, oversize oil drain plugs. This is a very very common problem in many cars.

Downside, we have a solid aluminum oilpan. They can crack from the stress. Removal and bench work as stated above is always best but sometimes is just not feasable. Its up to you.

 

[jtarkany]

chances are that the threads in the pan are done. If you put a new bolt up there, it will most likely come out looking just like that one. First thing to do is to clean the threads. Get a proper tap and run it up the existing thread. It will cut out the metal that is stuck between the existing threads. It may even leave enough thread to allow you to use a new bolt of the same size.

If there is not enough thread there, you will have to go up one size. I'm not sure what size the drain plug is but it will be defined by 2 or 3 numbers. The first two are the diamiter (slightly smaller really) And the pitch. The third number will be the legnth.

So if it is a 12 - 1.75 x 30 That would be a 12 mm bolt with 1.75 threads per mm and 30 mm long after the head.

I don't have my charts with me but you may get lucky and find that the next size up is only a mm larger and has the same pitch. That makes running a larger tap up the existing hole/threads easy. so if it is a 12 - 1.0 and you find a 13 - 1.0 the repair is easy as running a 13mm x 1.0 tap up the existing hole, Pooring oil through to clean out the chips an installing a larger plug. If it does not have the same pitch and / or is larger than a mm in diamater, you will have to drill out the hole before re-tapping it.

IF you tap / drill with the pan on the bike, be very careful not to drill too deep and damage something inside the bike. I normally build a stop to prevent drilling too deep. And do no forget to flush oil through to clean out any chips pushed into the pan. I tend to use a thin oil and pour the quart through a couple times straining through a screen to remove chunks before I re use it.

It is best to pull the pan and do all that on a bench, then you know it is clean going back on and there are no bits floating around.

Good advice, you can get a basic tap & die set from Harbor Freight for under $20 :thumbup:

 

[sxty8goats]

There are available selftapping, oversize oil drain plugs. This is a very very common problem in many cars.

Downside, we have a solid aluminum oilpan. They can crack from the stress. Removal and bench work as stated above is always best but sometimes is just not feasable. Its up to you.

If it were a steel pan I would have recommended a self taping, oversize plug and a magnet. But I don't like to stress aluminum like that.

 

[zigzagg321]

If it were a steel pan I would have recommended a self taping, oversize plug and a magnet. But I don't like to stress aluminum like that.

I agree.

I'd be replacing the pan.

 

[zmeiaspas]

wow

sxty8goats you make it sound all so easy Ok I'll give it a shot! I don't wanna break her just as much as I wanna ride her and learn how to work on her so screw it, I'm doing it myself!

Thanks a lot for the useful post! It's really helpful!

 

[sxty8goats]

Good advice, you can get a basic tap & die set from Harbor Freight for under $20 :thumbup:

If for some reason the thread isn't a common size, mscdirect.com is a great source. Chances are the harbor freight kit will be fine. find out the thread sizes before you buy a tap or set of taps.

 

[jmerch44]

Self tapping plugs suck ass! Change the pan.

 

[sxty8goats]

wow

sxty8goats you make it sounds all so easy Ok I'll give it a shot! I don't wanna break her just as much as I wanna ride her and learn how to work on her so screw it, I'm doing it myself!

Thanks a lot for the useful post! It's really helpful!

It is easy. The biggest problem is clearing chips out of the pan and keeping the tap perpendicular to the hole.

If you can drop the pan and do it on a bench, you are better off.

Making a drill stop is easy. Get a chunk of metal that is just a bit shorter than the drill bit and drill a slightly larger hole through it. Make it long enough so it can be held safely or better yet clamped if you don't have a lot of experience. Depending on how buggered the original threads are, you may get away with cleaning the threads and using the same size bolt. Not very likely though.

Clean the chips out of the pan. I know I've said that a couple times but it is important.

 

[Fred]

You can retap the threads, but get a GOOD tap, not a Harbor Freight POS.

A Heli-coil kit is another way to go, but again you need to know how to use a tap.

And as others said, don't use the self tapping plugs.

The tapping will generate metal chips, so here's what you do. After you've retapped, flush the chips out. To do this, lightly install your new drain plug. Not far, just a turn or so in.

Now, pour in a quart of either a thin oil or kerosene (haven't tried kerosene, but I think it would work fine). Then pull the drain plug and let the current flush the chips out. Repeat if needed.

 

[sxty8goats]

You can retap the threads, but get a GOOD tap, not a Harbor Freight POS.

A Heli-coil kit is another way to go, but again you need to know how to use a tap.

And as others said, don't use the self tapping plugs.

The tapping will generate metal chips, so here's what you do. After you've retapped, flush the chips out. To do this, lightly install your new drain plug. Not far, just a turn or so in.

Now, pour in a quart of either a thin oil or kerosene (haven't tried kerosene, but I think it would work fine). Then pull the drain plug and let the current flush the chips out. Repeat if needed.

I wouldn't use kerosene in a closed oil pan. There will be pools of it in your pan when you are done. It will thin the oil when you refill and is combustible. It is great for cleaning parts but not 'in' the engine. Pretty much like putting diesel in your crank. I'd also worry about seals. But mainly because I'm not at all familiar with the inside of these engines yet. A 5-30 used as you said with a plug and pull will work fine.

The pan is actually designed to gather chips and keep them out of the engine. The pickup will be screened. But it is best to get them out to avoid possible problems. Enough could block the screen enough to starve the bike.

 

[Motogiro]

If it were a steel pan I would have recommended a self taping, oversize plug and a magnet. But I don't like to stress aluminum like that.

Agree. You should use the minor diameter drill for the new thread and then tap the new over sized thread and like wrightme said, better to take the pan off and work on it to keep debri from entering. Also keep in mind that that tapped hole has to be on the money because you have to make a seal with that washer.
Can be done...

Sorry you have to go through this.

Cliff

 

[sxty8goats]

And for what it is worth, I didn't mention lubricating the tap because it will be soaked with oil if you tap the pan on the bike. If you pull the pan, make sure to lubricate the tap. Used motor oil will be fine for aluminum. I've used rubbing alcohol for aluminum in 'clean' situations and hand tapping. WD40 works great for aluminium tap fluid. Steel will need something thicker. Tap magic or 3 in 1 oil work good.

 

[sxty8goats]

Agree. You should use the minor diameter drill for the new thread and then tap the new over sized thread and like wrightme said, better to take the pan off and work on it to keep debri from entering. Also keep in mind that that tapped hole has to be on the money because you have to make a seal with that washer.
Can be done...

Sorry you have to go through this.

Cliff

Good point. The crush washer will take up a few degrees of misalignment but not alot. I would plan on swapping the crush washer every oil change if you don't do so already.

 

[wrightme43]

If it were a steel pan I would have recommended a self taping, oversize plug and a magnet. But I don't like to stress aluminum like that.

LOL of course, thats why its best not to it that way, but I have seen it done many times and so far as I know no failures. BUT BUT BUT thats in cars. On a bike its a different story if your oil pours out on the ground while your riding. Cars just stop, bikes tend to carry a bit more excitment. :thumbup:

 

[sxty8goats]

LOL of course, thats why its best not to it that way, but I have seen it done many times and so far as I know no failures. BUT BUT BUT thats in cars. On a bike its a different story if your oil pours out on the ground while your riding. Cars just stop, bikes tend to carry a bit more excitment. :thumbup:

Don't I know it. I've touched a bit of oil on the road. Like ice in the summer. Managed to keep it up that time.

 

[Wolfman]

Lots of fantastic advice here.....i must say, a good quality tap & dye kit is just about an essential set of tools for any vehicle these days, with all the crap bolts, etc, that we have put upon us by manufacturers using cheap metals, etc, to make lightweight bolts, etc....

good luck with it....


:thumbup:

 

[taki]

should we be putting some anti sieze on the threads to keep the threads from sticking? i changed my oil recently (regular maintenance schedule) and had a heck of a time loosening the bolt (i properly torqued it last time i changed the oil).

i didnt change out the crush washer, although i dont see how that would help the situation.

 

[04fizzer]

should we be putting some anti sieze on the threads to keep the threads from sticking? i changed my oil recently (regular maintenance schedule) and had a heck of a time loosening the bolt (i properly torqued it last time i changed the oil).

i didnt change out the crush washer, although i dont see how that would help the situation.

Oil works pretty well as an anti-seize. Nothing further is needed.