My ignition key keeps sticking!

[jfz6]

For the past few months my ignition key has been sticking and is hard to put it in and tough to get it out. I have to move it about to turn it as well. I have tried putting WD-40 on my key and putting it in and pulling it out and cleaning it each time.

I am a commuter and my bike is my only means of transportation so I rarely cover it as there really is no point as I ride it in the rain (which we have had a lot of lately in Alabama).

Does anyone else have this problem?

Has anyone found a solution?

 

[notjohndavid]

For the past few months my ignition key has been sticking and is hard to put it in and tough to get it out. I have to move it about to turn it as well. I have tried putting WD-40 on my key and putting it in and pulling it out and cleaning it each time.

I am a commuter and my bike is my only means of transportation so I rarely cover it as there really is no point as I ride it in the rain (which we have had a lot of lately in Alabama).

Does anyone else have this problem?

Has anyone found a solution?

Never had this problem with my FZ6 but you could have a bent wafer or any number of other things going on with your ignition. Hard to diagnose without looking at it and even harder to work on without the proper tools. Call around to some local locksmiths and find one that either has a storefront or one that you can meet up and not have to pay a service call (Typically $50+ that a locksmith is going to charge to come to you). You're in a pretty good position since you're noticing an issue because it gets to the point where you can't move the bike.

If there's something foreign in the lock that shouldn't be there they can probably get it out with special tools. If it's a bent wafer they'll have to pull the ignition off and probably just pull that bent wafer out. Without something like an otoscope it's hard to see into the lock and tell what's going on.

But if you're key isn't bent or twisted (is it the OE key or a copy? did that same key work before with no problems?) and you've put something like WD40 or PB Blaster in the lock and that's not helped, I'd call a locksmith.

Good luck and let us know what you find out!

 

[Fz6Sa]

For the past few months my ignition key has been sticking and is hard to put it in and tough to get it out. I have to move it about to turn it as well. I have tried putting WD-40 on my key and putting it in and pulling it out and cleaning it each time.

I am a commuter and my bike is my only means of transportation so I rarely cover it as there really is no point as I ride it in the rain (which we have had a lot of lately in Alabama).

Does anyone else have this problem?

Has anyone found a solution?

I had this issue just this summer. I put some lock oil in the lock, and felt no improvement. After a couple of months the issue vanished again, so I newer really got round to checking into a solution.

 

[Smittyboy]

I had this problem at the mid to end of last riding season. Now that the bike has been sleeping in a heated basement for a while the same key goes smooth as glass.

 

[Kilbane83]

I dunno I use dry powder graphite to lube my lock. WD-40 is really sticky and dirt and the like can get in there and stick making problems. Sometimes I have problems pulling my key out, but that's usually because of the steering lock not being fully engaged.

 

[jfz6]

I dunno I use dry powder graphite to lube my lock.

The only reason I used WD-40 is because it works great for cleaning my chain
before lubing which I do often because of riding it so much as well as I love the whole clutch-less shifting!

Where cane I get graphite powder?

 

[Kilbane83]

Graphite Should be available in any automotive store.

 

[thirty_too]

join the club.... lol... but seriously when i have that problem i take some wd-40 and jsut spray the key and it has worked ever since... just a thought

 

[notjohndavid]

Don't put graphite in your ignition. Our igintions came from the factory with a petrolium/white lithium type lube in them. As such you should stay with a similar lube (wet lube such as WD-40 or PB Blaster). Graphite is a dry lube meant as such, and not to be mixed with a wet lube. If you add graphite it'll mix with the already wet lube and turn into a gummy substance.

(Graphite is a great lube for things like household locks that don't come with a wet lube already in them)

 

[Smittyboy]

My little theory of why they stick is just moisture getting in there and gumming up the works. That would be why wd40 works well. I whole heartedly agree about not put'ing graphite powder in there. Sounds like a bad day waiting to happen. Try to dry 'er out as much as possible would be my best bet for ya.

 

[Chaosratt]

My bike is kept outside uncovered as well, and every few months the ignition starts to stick too. What always works for me is the next time I take the Dupont Teflon spray to the chain I give the ignition a quick squirt, put the key in/out a few times, turn it from LOCK to ON a few times, and give it another quick squirt. Makes it smooth as from the factory for a few months (I'm in FL, so it rains a lot, things don't stay dry or clean long...)

 

[jfz6]

My bike is kept outside uncovered as well, and every few months the ignition starts to stick too. What always works for me is the next time I take the Dupont Teflon spray to the chain I give the ignition a quick squirt, put the key in/out a few times, turn it from LOCK to ON a few times, and give it another quick squirt. Makes it smooth as from the factory for a few months (I'm in FL, so it rains a lot, things don't stay dry or clean long...)

Now that is a good idea!

 

[jsw4178]

I dunno I use dry powder graphite to lube my lock. WD-40 is really sticky and dirt and the like can get in there and stick making problems. Sometimes I have problems pulling my key out, but that's usually because of the steering lock not being fully engaged.

Plus 1 on the graphite.

 

[notjohndavid]

I know everyone will make their own decisions on this. I'll state this in a little different way. I'm a Electronics Technician now... before getting the job I have now I was a locksmith for a number of years. I would not put graphite in my ignition. It does have a place for "pin tumbler" locks such as household knobs and levers. It does not have a place in "wafer tumbler" locks such as motorcycle ignitions, seat locks, automotive ignitions and trunk/door locks or furniture/filing cabinet locks. Basically if it isn't a household door lock, don't put graphite in it.

Back to the key sticking problem. I noticed today that the slotted disc (basically a trim piece) on top of the ignition cylinder on my bike spins freely. If the slot isn't lined up with the ignition cylinder you won't be able to get the key in (maybe 2mm or so will go in and stop). When inserting your key make sure that the orientation of the slot matches the indicated area the cylinder was left in on the outside of the cylinder (i.e. Off or Lock). It's possible for the disc to move somewhat after you inserted the key which could make it difficult to remove the key but it's doubtful. If you're having a difficult time inserting the key, removing the key and turning the cylinder then you've probably got a damaged wafer, damaged ward in the ignition cylinder, or some form of debris in the cylinder. also note that you have to push down and turn the cylinder in order to get it from off to lock and vice versa. there should be no downward pressure on the cylinder when turning from off to on or on to off.

 

[bluenova]

The problem comes and goes for me, it's worst when cold and damp. I find that it's not that the lock is sticking but that the key has to be perfectly aligned in the lock by moving the key up and down slightly while trying to turn it so it slips in. When it's warm and dry I don't have the issue.

 

[PcH]

Sorry for awakening this dead thread, but I've been having the same issue with the key sticking.

It's gotten so bad that I'm sitting at my bike for 5 minutes just trying to get the key from the OFF to ON position. I brought my bike to Yamaha this morning for some other recalls and told them about the ignition. They said they'd try white lithium lube. I'll report back if it works.

 

[Norbert]

Sorry for awakening this dead thread, but I've been having the same issue with the key sticking.

It's gotten so bad that I'm sitting at my bike for 5 minutes just trying to get the key from the OFF to ON position. I brought my bike to Yamaha this morning for some other recalls and told them about the ignition. They said they'd try white lithium lube. I'll report back if it works.

White lithium would kinda suck for this.
It dries up and gets kinda pasty.
That's what I've noticed with the white lithium I use on some pivot points on my bike. I normally just wipe off and re-apply, but if it's in a lock, that would suck.

Try using something like this:
Dri-Slide
https://www.russack.com/view_doc.php?view_doc=8
Goes on wet, penetrates, dries out and keeps lubing. Does not attract dirt.
Use it on your cables too. :thumbup:

I got this from the dealer for $15

 

[sxty8goats]

Don't put graphite in your ignition. Our igintions came from the factory with a petrolium/white lithium type lube in them. As such you should stay with a similar lube (wet lube such as WD-40 or PB Blaster). Graphite is a dry lube meant as such, and not to be mixed with a wet lube. If you add graphite it'll mix with the already wet lube and turn into a gummy substance.

(Graphite is a great lube for things like household locks that don't come with a wet lube already in them)

WD40 is a very light lubricant, it will evaporate very quickly. Originally developed to remove water from areas that shouldn't be wet and leave a thin film behind to prevent corrosion. The WD stands for Water Displacement. It isn't a good lubricant. It will lubricate for a short time but it will quickly dissipate. it is good for flushing out debris and loosing up stuck parts but that should always be followed up with a longer lasting lubricant. Spraying it in a lock will wash out the grease in the lock and leave it dry a few days later. Washing out the lock with WD should be followed up the next day with a couple drops of a heaver oil, like 3 in 1 oil. Actually if you can pull the ignition out and properly grease it with a light white lithium grease.

 

[wolfe1down]

I would not use a graphite lube for your ignition. Graphite is an excellent lube when used in the proper conditions. I'm in the Canadian Forces, and we use it when deploying up north, as it does not freeze/jam our rifles. It does however tend to clump up and eventually bind, leading to more maintenance being required on the rifles. For the same reasons, I would not put this is your ignition. Your key will force all/most of the graphite to the bottom of the ignition potentially causing your key not to seat all the way.

Just my $0.02

 

[Ridgeback]

+ 1 on the sticky ignition.Mine is the same in the winter and after sloshing a ton of WD40 in it,it works a treat :thumbup:

Another one of my pet hates,is the sticking seat lock. I've just stripped mine down and cleaned all the crap out,that no lubricant would touch.Trouble with that lock,is that all the **** off the road gets thrown straight at it and physically taking it apart is the only way of doing it.

BTW why does WD40 get so much stick on Forums? I've used it for years and not found anything better.....