Replacement Ignition switch re-key?

[TownsendsFJR1300]

My ignition key is hanging up often so the switch needs replacement.

Has anyone taken a switch apart to try and re-key (to match your old key)?

US model, no ABS, etc..

 

[Gary in NJ]

I had the same issue a few years ago. From what I remember the OEM unit is sealed/tamper proof - certainly the bolts that attach it to the bike are tamper proof in that they need to be drilled out. I purchased an assembly off Amazon and it has worked flawlessly. But if I had to buy that way again, I would focus on harness length (I had to lengthen the harness) and get a unit with a matching fuel cap - keeping the bike a one-key bike.

 

[bryancraftyhands]

How about your seat lock?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I ordered an OEM switch from Partzilla.

I checked and they (Yamaha) do not make a "kit" with matching fuel tank cap and seat lock.

I'll leave the replacement switch alone. I may dig into the cap and seat unit. I can re-key my helmet locks W/O incident.

Worse case scenario, I've always had a quick disconnect (the little silver spring clips) for my Yamaha key to attach to the rest of my keys (so all the keys don't scratch up the triple). I'll just put the original key on my key ring and the new one on the "clip". (Not so bad)

I gather the wiring leads are under the battery holder or does that holder not need to be removed?

Right now it's a crap shoot with much jiggling to start the bike so it'll be parked as I don't need to be stranded..

Has anyone pulled apart the gas cap to try and re-key?

Thanks ahead of time..


I may replace the clutch cable as I have a spare and this one has about 10K on it while I'm in there..

 

[Gary in NJ]

Here is an Amazon kit that includes the ignition, fuel cap and seat lock. $33

DEVMO Fuel Gas Cap Ignition Switch Seat Lock W/Key Set OE: 15643 Compatible with Yamaha YZF R1 R6 FZ6 FZ1 https://a.co/d/4bpsEPW

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Tks. I already ordered the Genuine Yamaha switch and don't care to use China knock off parts especially for this .

Are the two connectors under the battery, or closer to the inner of the frame?


Also, found this: Not too difficult to re-key the gas cap..

How to ReKey a Yamaha Fuel Cap - XJRider.com

 

[Gary in NJ]

If I remember correctly, I had to remove the battery box to gain access to the connector. The tamper proof bolts are the hassle - I drilled the heads off and was able to remove the remaining threads/shank with pliers or vice grips.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Tks. I've removed that switch from an 07 FJR for a triple tree swap MANY years ago..

It wasn't a big deal. I have a GPS, risers and extra electrical lines to manipulate out of the way.

 

[bryancraftyhands]

I think my connector was right behind the headlight, but I have a naked model and the switch was replaced before I bought it.
I had to dig in because my key kept sticking and not turning. I first thought it was my key. A smith I spoke with cut me a new one from vin code. I was still having the problem, so he mentioned if I can bring it in, he can maybe re do the tumblers.
I dug in and saw that I had replacement bolts, and when I removed the assembly, I saw that there was part of the cylinder that was damaged either through wear or theft attempt, that was allowing the key to go in at an angle while I tried to turn it. The angle of course didn't allow the pins to line up correctly.
After seeing that, I just left it as is. I consider it an anti theft in itself. Got to know how to use the key if you get it from me.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Yep, it's about 90% not turning, even with jiggling..

Sooo, I'm not getting stranded, the parts ordered, hopefully it'll be here Saturday
or Monday.

The GPS (a 590) is known to have bad connection issues with the mount. Currently, it has a good connection so I don't want to release it.

Between the risers and the GPS mount just a little more involved moving stuff out of the way.

I did find some links for re-keying the gas tank and seat locks..

 

[bryancraftyhands]

Again, mine being a naked, there may be some difference here, but I don't think I had to lift the tree at all. I removed my headlight assembly and everything was right there.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Yep, I have a bunch of stuff to move.

Now, they won't have the switch till 7-31-23 from Yamaha...

I did do some research and the fuel tank and seat lock assemblies CAN be rekeyed(similar to the helmet lock)
which I've done before....

That's no hurry but I'm not riding it as it's really worn out(the switch)...

.

 

[bryancraftyhands]

Here's a good pic of what's behind the headlight on mine.
I believe that wire on the left of the ignition switch is connected to the instrument gauge and the bike by the connectors you seek, but they are hanging down out of site in this pic. The connector you do see is to the LED tail light and turn signal relay.
Once you have your headlight out of the way, you can see one of my bolts holding the ignition switch is silver there in the front, the other looks black for some reason. Don't ask me, I got it used and don't know what all they were doing. I think I found most of the surprises though. remove those two bolts and unplug and that's it. If you want to look at your cylinder better, I think there was something else holding the exterior case of the switch together too. I don't remember, but I had my whole tumbler assembly out and that's how I saw the interaction between my key and switch.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I looked a lil closer (W/O dis-assembly) and the two wiring looms from the switch go
into the left side of the frame (same area as the clutch cable). Mines fully faired.

So, the plan is raise the tank first, get under the battery holder and un-plug.
Remove GPS and mount, (set aside).
Then the triple, etc...

I did order new security bolts but may put allen head bolts back in.
IF, the assembly can come out (W/O the lock binding up), it'd be much easier
for R&R in another 34,000 miles..

.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Just to follow up on this repair.

The ignition switch harness travels thru the left side of the frame.
The air box and battery tray must be removed. Removing the clutch cable (just where it passes thru the frame) is helpful.

The actual two switch connectors plug in in the left side of the frame rail, where it (the frame) kinda bows out.
It's not inside that main harness plug (with the rubber boot)...

Back with two wheels!!!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Well another update, or FYI...

It is possible to re-key your original fuel tank cap, seat release lock and helmet lock to match your new ignition switch.

This link gives you the general idea, (pic's are slightly different than my S2) how to do the cap:
https://www.xjrider.com/viewtopic.php?t=6504

Seat lock is much easier, and simple to remove. Helmet lock about the same..

One key for everything now!

.

 

[bryancraftyhands]

Helmet lock? FZ6 has / had this?

 

[gnyce]

@TownsendsFJR1300 was making/selling them for a bit - I have one, still use it. He provided instructions to re-key to your ignition key. Dunno about any others, but that would be my guess

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Helmet lock? FZ6 has / had this?

The S2 bikes have them located on the left side of the bike.

The S1', no lock provided.

I make a bracket that fits the right side of the sub-frame (no drilling) and allows the
mounting of a Yamaha helmet lock assembly. As noted earlier, the lock can be re-keyed to fit your
ignition key.

A link to a detailed "how to" re-key the Helmet lock:

https://www.fjrowners.com/threads/yamaha-helmet-lock-assembly-re-key-procedure.154500/

I do still make / sell them, in black or silver . Hand made of aluminum with SS hardware (clamps around the frame.) The Yamaha part # is : 4R8-21308-01-00 Bracket with hardware is $25 plus $7.00 shipping (inside the US)