Ignition Switch Lubrication Help!

[slikfz6]

The little plastic keyhole protector is not closing fully. I tried cleaning it with a qtip and wd-40, it worked, but for a day or so. This past rain storm made it worse, now the key has a hard time going in and out. What is the correct method of lubrication?? I've seen the dry lubricating graphite "dust" that is used , don't know if this is ok to use though. Lastly I tried to remove the switch but it seems that it's mounted permanently??

Thanks!

 

[wrightme43]

Yeah thats a touchy subject, some people say dry lube graphite, some say a spray in lube, main thing is dont use both, then it turns to sticky, gummy mess.

The igntion is some kind of one way screw that is supposed to be tamper proof to some extent.

 

[slikfz6]

Is the actual key cylinder just mechanical, or does it have some sort of electrical contacts in there?

How am I supposed to drain the water that got in there if I can't remove the switch, I don't have the strength to turn the bike upside down

 

[FZ1inNH]

Is the actual key cylinder just mechanical, or does it have some sort of electrical contacts in there?

How am I supposed to drain the water that got in there if I can't remove the switch, I don't have the strength to turn the bike upside down

WD40 will take care of the water. Remember, W for water and D for displacement, 40th formula.

I use a lock de-icer which is also a lubricant. It's a graphite spray that is ether based so the ether removes the water/ice while the graphite lubes it. I forget the name but it is in any automotive store.

 

[slikfz6]

Thanks for the comments. I'll continue with the wd40 temporarely, I'll look around for the de-icer tomorrow.

 

[GConn]

Is the actual key cylinder just mechanical, or does it have some sort of electrical contacts in there?

The bikes in the EU have an immobiliser system as well. How it works and if the spray can affect its operation, I don't know. Just make sure yours doesn't have an immobiliser before you spray it.

 

[snowmannn]

I've got a 2007 S2 with immobilizer. One day after riding in a heavy rain I had that problem - the switch kind of scraped when pushed. I sprayed WD40 inside and around the switch and wiped off the excess. Immediately after spraying I pushed it ~10 times in order to get it lubricated thoroughly. Since then I've got no problems.

 

[Unseen]

I just put a some spray on oil like WD-40 on a cloth and wipe the key with that. The key will then slide smoothly into the switch, works for me.

 

[b.konstadinos]

WD-40 worked for me. Immobilizer too here. I sprayed in the switch about 3 months ago and no problem at all since now. :thumbup:

 

[sideslider]

+1 for graphite.. which I seem to need to do every few months... ( i ride in bad weather a lot).

 

[Sawblade]

+1 for WD40. I always put a tiny squirt in the ignition switch whenever I clean my chain. The key comes out oily for a while, but it keeps the lock working silky smooth.

 

[notjohndavid]

With several years as a locksmith I guess I feel like I should put my 0.02 cents in here. Graphite is a dry lubricant for dry conditions (i.e. household door locks). Spray lubricants like WD40 and PB Blaster (which I prefer over WD40) are better suited for wet conditions. Like someone already mentioned do not mix the two as they will turn into a thick gummy substance. Automotive locks (motorcycles included) have a grease in the cylinders from the factory (wet lubricant). Aside from the dry/wet argument (once you use a dry lube stay with a dry, and once you use a wet stay with a wet), motorcycle/automotive locks use wafers or discs while household locks (for the most part) use pins. Graphite works well in dry conditions on pin tumbler locks, but wet lubricants are superior for wafer tumbers such as motorcycles.

After spraying the lubricant into the cylinder it is important to insert and remove the key a number of times to work the lubricant into all the wards of the lock. After working the key in and out a couple times, remove it, wipe it clean, reinsert and repeat the process atleast 4-5 times.

There are some silicon based lock lubricants that should offer better water protection. To the OP. It sounds like you may have broken the spring that closes the flap on the ignition. If it works it's probably fine to leave it alone. You just dont want parts to fall down in the cylinder and damage a wafer. The big thing to remember is that it should never take force to do anything with a lock (be it insert/remove a key or turn it).

 

[Donnie869]

+10 on the PB Blaster:rockon:

 

[slikfz6]

I sprayed some WD40 and it worked, I'm stiil having issues with the little plastic door. Only one side closes while the other stays open, like slant. I tried using qtips to clean any residue but it just doesn't want to properly close. I'll keep trying, it feels like grit is in there, or sand.

Thanks guys!

 

[urbanj]

With several years as a locksmith I guess I feel like I should put my 0.02 cents in here. Graphite is a dry lubricant for dry conditions (i.e. household door locks). Spray lubricants like WD40 and PB Blaster (which I prefer over WD40) are better suited for wet conditions. Like someone already mentioned do not mix the two as they will turn into a thick gummy substance. Automotive locks (motorcycles included) have a grease in the cylinders from the factory (wet lubricant). Aside from the dry/wet argument (once you use a dry lube stay with a dry, and once you use a wet stay with a wet), motorcycle/automotive locks use wafers or discs while household locks (for the most part) use pins. Graphite works well in dry conditions on pin tumbler locks, but wet lubricants are superior for wafer tumbers such as motorcycles.

After spraying the lubricant into the cylinder it is important to insert and remove the key a number of times to work the lubricant into all the wards of the lock. After working the key in and out a couple times, remove it, wipe it clean, reinsert and repeat the process atleast 4-5 times.

There are some silicon based lock lubricants that should offer better water protection. To the OP. It sounds like you may have broken the spring that closes the flap on the ignition. If it works it's probably fine to leave it alone. You just dont want parts to fall down in the cylinder and damage a wafer. The big thing to remember is that it should never take force to do anything with a lock (be it insert/remove a key or turn it).

+1

I'm not a locksmith but being a mechanic the automotive applications I've rekeyed has come with grease from the factory. I use white lithium if I'm rekeying it or penetrating white lithium if i am relubing.

That's what I do anyways.

 

[slikfz6]

To the OP. It sounds like you may have broken the spring that closes the flap on the ignition. If it works it's probably fine to leave it alone. You just dont want parts to fall down in the cylinder and damage a wafer. The big thing to remember is that it should never take force to do anything with a lock (be it insert/remove a key or turn it).

Thanks for advice, I'll just leave it alone. I'll try buying some PB Blaster.