Need help with hid projector wiring!!!

Here is the wiring digram for the hid light with angel eyes I have. I cant figure out where I connect wire 3 and 4 too and also wire 5 and 6. Can anyone tell where I connect these too?http://eshop.ktautopart.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/thumbnail/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/m/o/motorcycle_hid_projector_wiring_connection-website.jpg.jpg

Well that's about the most confusing "wiring diagram" I've ever seen...

Best I can tell, 3 and 4 should be wired to the stock headlight signals... they say to the switch, but you could wire them at the headlight plug much easier. Nice of them not to mention which one is high and which is low.

Looks like #6 is a ground, and #5 is the positive for the halos. Where to hook that up depends on when you want them lit. You could use the low beam, high beam, front running light, or your own switch.

Try contacting them. Haven't bought them yet but they told me if I had ANY problems after I got the to give them a ring and they would do everything they could to help. I emailed them back and forth for like a week with random questions and always had great response time.

First of all:
Are you going to use 2 projectors (so with a faired version), or only one? (Naked version or converted to naked?)
Do you have a dual headlight solution installed? (eg. Motogiro's)
You will need to work on your OEM headlight wiring when you're retrofitting it to a faired version (bulb socket 1= low beam, bulb socket 2= high beam)

Grtz,


Degake

fb40dash5 said:

Best I can tell, 3 and 4 should be wired to the stock headlight signals... they say to the switch, but you could wire them at the headlight plug much easier. Nice of them not to mention which one is high and which is low.

Looks like #6 is a ground, and #5 is the positive for the halos. Where to hook that up depends on when you want them lit. You could use the low beam, high beam, front running light, or your own switch.

Click to expand...

This sounds right to me.

Ok,

I think I've got all your steps/worries covered now:

Reworked image:


High beam wire = black with yellow tracer wire(right headlight plug)
Low beam wire = black with green tracer wire (left headlight plug)
If you connected it this way and your headlight works incorrect (high beam when on low beam switch and vice versa), switch the wires.

This should get all connections sorted and give you a fully working HID unit.

Grtz,


Degake


p.s. Please report about the light output of those projector units

you connect 3 and 4 to your headlight switch and 5 and 6 hook them up to the battery

Degake got it spot on.

To test if you got it right before mounting you can use a household 9V battery to see if the wire you think is the Hi beam actually flips the solenoid in the projector housing. (Simply touch wire 2 to 9V battery - and wire 5 to 9V battery + and see if the solenoid flips (you'll also hear it click if you can't see it)).

have fun.

PS: Where is this from? I'd say it was pretty inconvenient for us to have 5 and 6 side by side like that since our high is on one side and low on the other. Fixable to be sure, but still....guess you could really just use a single H4 connector. Oh well.

sounds like you got the right guys around to help you out. i need to do this mod, it looks so cool and provides much better light. i don't ride in the dark enough to justify it though.

Never understood angel eyes on a bike since your headlights are on when the bike is running which washes out the angel eyes. I guess if you switched them for the "ricer" effect when parked? :thumbup:

FIZZER6 said:

Never understood angel eyes on a bike since your headlights are on when the bike is running which washes out the angel eyes. I guess if you switched them for the "ricer" effect when parked? :thumbup:

Click to expand...

You can use them as parking lights?

Grtz,


Degake

hk_fz6_05 said:

Degake got it spot on.

To test if you got it right before mounting you can use a household 9V battery to see if the wire you think is the Hi beam actually flips the solenoid in the projector housing. (Simply touch wire 2 to 9V battery - and wire 5 to 9V battery + and see if the solenoid flips (you'll also hear it click if you can't see it)).

Click to expand...

I have a slightly different setup in mind and have a few questions. I want to wire the HID Projector into the low beam light (or running lights), but be able to function as high beam as well.

1) Do wires 5 and 6 use additional power to light the system or just enough power to flip the solinoid back and forth.
2) Can I connect 5 and 6 with a toggle switch to the low beam light (or marker lights)? Such that either 5 or 6 will be connected getting power at any given time. Would that flip the solenoid? Or does power output needs to be changed?

Also, do you guys think a fuse (3 or 5amp for 35watt bulb) should be added to the sytem at the positive terminal to be on the safe side? What is the worst case scenario for not having a fuse?

Thanks guys.

subaron said:

I have a slightly different setup in mind and have a few questions. I want to wire the HID Projector into the low beam light (or running lights), but be able to function as high beam as well.

1) Do wires 5 and 6 use additional power to light the system or just enough power to flip the solinoid back and forth.
2) Can I connect 5 and 6 with a toggle switch to the low beam light (or marker lights)? Such that either 5 or 6 will be connected getting power at any given time. Would that flip the solenoid? Or does power output needs to be changed?

Also, do you guys think a fuse (3 or 5amp for 35watt bulb) should be added to the sytem at the positive terminal to be on the safe side? What is the worst case scenario for not having a fuse?

Thanks guys.

Click to expand...

1-) Wires 5 and 6 are just solenoid current. They are not used to power the system.

2-) You could use the running light circuit with an additional toggle to control the solenoid but.... Why would you use the running light circuit with a working high beam signal that is not being uses for anything else which also provides high beam indicator on the instrument cluster?

3-) Always fuse your circuits that have no fuse. This is a safety/fire hazard without a fuse.

If you look at any automotive wiring you will find fuses or fuseable link wires protect the system during a short.
If you add a circuit that is not behind a fuse , add a fuse. Much cheaper than the alternative.

Remember that although your HID unit uses about 35 watts it uses much more current each time it starts! Use a 7-10 amp fuse so that you have some head room with your wattage and you are well protected during a short.

I have a fz6n conversion. I am still using the H4 Halogen in the headlight for high and low beams. Not yet ready to put the headlight in the oven yet for a proper HID mount.

Therefore, HID Projector is being mounted as auxiliary lighting only to be used when I am out of the city on highways and service roads with no (or not much lighting). Plus, if the halogen blub burns our mid trip, I have a backup lighting system on the bike.

That is the reason why I am considering a 3 way toggle switch to either go to high or low beam from off state as required.

I am using the original low beam wire to power my heated grips, therefore, would prefer to use the marker lights to power on the solenoid. I will be converting the turn signals to LED to conserve the limited watts that our bikes have. I do go on long trips and gps puts some draw on my system as well. Milking every last bit of power available!!!

Motogiro said:

Remember that although your HID unit uses about 35 watts it uses much more current each time it starts! Use a 7-10 amp fuse so that you have some head room with your wattage and you are well protected during a short.

Click to expand...

I am more mechanically inclined than electronically. So please be patient with me.

1) I have those car type fuses with two prongs that kinda look like wall plugs but sideways. What is housing/harness they fit into called? I am trying to find something for a 10amp fuse on ebay, incase of fuse I can just replace the fuse easily rather than re-solder a new fuse.
2) Where in the diagram would I add the fuse? I was assuming it would be between the positive terminal battery head and the positive wire (number 1 on diagram) to the HID kit.

subaron said:

I am more mechanically inclined than electronically. So please be patient with me.

1) I have those car type fuses with two prongs that kinda look like wall plugs but sideways. What is housing/harness they fit into called? I am trying to find something for a 10amp fuse on ebay, incase of fuse I can just replace the fuse easily rather than re-solder a new fuse.
2) Where in the diagram would I add the fuse? I was assuming it would be between the positive terminal battery head and the positive wire (number 1 on diagram) to the HID kit.

Click to expand...

It looks like the #1 wire comes with an inline fuse so you should be good to go but anytime you're looking for an inline fuse assembly and fuses, you can prolly get it at any auto parts store.

One more question.

I am almost ready to mount the projector, just need to encase it in plexiglass (hope that works out to weather proof it).

Which way is up for the bi-xenon HID light? The motor that controls high/low beam on bottom or top?

I am thinking that the motor would be on top, so that when it pull the sheild down more light for top. But I am not sure if the convex glass acts to invert the light.

subaron said:

One more question.

I am almost ready to mount the projector, just need to encase it in plexiglass (hope that works out to weather proof it).

Which way is up for the bi-xenon HID light? The motor that controls high/low beam on bottom or top?

I am thinking that the motor would be on top, so that when it pull the sheild down more light for top. But I am not sure if the convex glass acts to invert the light.

Click to expand...

If the solenoid is pulling the cutoff shield downwards (so solenoid at the bottom of the projector), you have it right.
The projector lens is in fact inverting the light output upside down, just as you thought

Grtz,


Degake


Sent from my New iPad using Tapatalk HD

subaron said:

One more question.

I am almost ready to mount the projector, just need to encase it in plexiglass (hope that works out to weather proof it).

Which way is up for the bi-xenon HID light? The motor that controls high/low beam on bottom or top?

I am thinking that the motor would be on top, so that when it pull the sheild down more light for top. But I am not sure if the convex glass acts to invert the light.

Click to expand...

I'm thinking the shade is on top and lifts to raise the cutoff where the light will shine at a higher angle thus a longer light down the road.

Motogiro said:

I'm thinking the shade is on top and lifts to raise the cutoff where the light will shine at a higher angle thus a longer light down the road.

Click to expand...

Cliff, it is actually the opposite; flipping the cutoff shield down creates more light at the bottom of the projector, which is inverted by theprojector lens, so more light appears at the top of the light bundle, giving a higher (and longer) light throw.

To give an example of the correct mounting of the projector:


Grtz,


Degake


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