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Wont Run!

I have a spare fuel pump, and disassembled it to show the built in fuel filter, see attached images. It measures about 2"x 1-3/8" and has a lot of surface area. It's unlikely that this is plugged up, but if it is it is NOT removable. Picture (filter_3) shows the metal ring that secures it to the inlet p[ort of the pump.

My guess is air in the fuel rail. After my FZ sat for a few weeks without fuel in the rail it took about 5 minutes of partial throttle idling to eliminate the same symptoms that you are stating.

Keep us informed.
 
Ok man I am stumped. If all the hoses are in the right places, and its put back together right, and it has good fuel, its got clean air, and its got good spark it should run.

Sounds like a vacum leak or something stupid.
 
Thank you all for the help all of your efforts are really appreciated, fuel + spark = RUN! but im getting no run. Ive got fuel pumping strong when i turn the key on for a second or two all the way to the rail which when i remove the fitting from there i see fuel so i believe the rail is getting fuel, air in the rail, ive already removed the rail and injectors so there shouldnt be air there. I cleaned all the lines and connectors. It fires up it just runs like crap when it does, like its running on a couple of cylinders. Im so CONFUSED!
 
Do you have access to a spark tester?

You could of had a coil fail or become unplugged.

Has the fuel gone bad?

You said it has been apart for a month, how old is the gas?

What did you do to the tank? I know you painted it, anything else?

Does it have rust in it?

Did a mouse chew the wires on your bike?

Oddly enough I have seen that several times on different vehicles.

I dont expect you to report answers to these questions. Just trying to help trouble shoot, and maybe give a idea that will help solve your problem.

Steve
 
My bet: kinked fuel line.

Check it very carefully, but I`d put money on it, since it's very easy to kink when moving the tank around :)

Last time someone needed one they had to wait 2 weeks for delivery from Asia :D

Good luck.
 
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All right man.

Are you absolutely certian all the plug wires are on right? It sounds down a couple cyls doesnt it?

If you can run a video closeup of the engine area, the plug wires, just go over the whole bike so we can compare a few bikes to it and see whats up.

I bet your ready to pull out your hair.

Damn dents if it was gonna cause this just would of them in there. LOL
 
I hadn't thought of a fuel filter so I just went to the fiche at Ron Ayers... after looking at the tank and the two intake views, I don't see one listed anywhere? Does any other owner have knowledge of a fuel filter? (Good point ITSME)

Try the new plugs (pretty much needed anyway) and the reset though before worrying about the injectors.
The filter is an integral part of the fuel pump.

Nelly
 
Run the diagnostics check and see if you get an error code.
This will be a good place to start.

sorry about the duplicate filter post. I read it from the Haynes manual and posted before i finished reading all of your responses.

Is your battery fully charged?
Nelly

[edit] after hearing the video it sounds like it is missing on a couple of cylinders. You would have unburnt fuel in the plugs though.
It also sounds like there is an air leak. The air box has a small hose on the upper right hand side. It doesn't cause this rough running though. Defo run a diagnostic check.
 
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To Run diagnostics:

2004 - 2006 models

1. Engine off and engine kill switch off and disconnect the fuel pump wiring connector.
2. press and hold SELECT and RESET buttons simultaneously.
3. Turn on ignition and keep SELECT and RESET depressed for at least 8 seconds. All displays on the meter will disappear apart from the trip counter and the clock.
4. select diagnostics by pressing select button until DIAG appears on the LCD.
5. CO adjustment will appear on the LCD ensure that you are in DIAG mode and press and hold SELECT and RESET for two seconds.

The SELECT button scrolls through the codes in ascending order and the RESET button through descending order.
In some instances it is necessary to turn the engine run switch on to confirm data. The manual does not say which ones?


6. After each check the engine must be switched of and the process repeated for subsequent checks.
The manual does not also say that once you enter into DIAG mode that the error code will be displayed? I assume that the manual takes the view that you are going into DIAG after actually seeing an error code displayed.
To cancel DIAG mode turn the ignition off.
I hope this helps.

Nelly
 
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I don't have my bike all in pieces, I've never paid too much attention to my intake, my manual doesn't show it clearly, and google fails me on a photo search, but isn't that 2X4 placed right in your intake?

That would make a huge difference by choking out the very life it needs to run.
 
Thank you all for the help all of your efforts are really appreciated, fuel + spark = RUN! but im getting no run. Ive got fuel pumping strong when i turn the key on for a second or two all the way to the rail which when i remove the fitting from there i see fuel so i believe the rail is getting fuel, air in the rail, ive already removed the rail and injectors so there shouldnt be air there. I cleaned all the lines and connectors. It fires up it just runs like crap when it does, like its running on a couple of cylinders. Im so CONFUSED!

is it possible the lines are crossed, when i say lines i mean the spark plug.
 
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believe me, i've crossed plug wires before, and thats not it. the thing would be backfiring like mad.

I don't even see any evidence that the OP even took them off during his tank repair. Unless some magical fairies flew in one night and switched them around on him.
 
I don't have my bike all in pieces, I've never paid too much attention to my intake, my manual doesn't show it clearly, and google fails me on a photo search, but isn't that 2X4 placed right in your intake?

That would make a huge difference by choking out the very life it needs to run.

good point, but i think there is still enough air getting around it should be good.. my personal bet is that once he puts his seat on it should work great :thumbup:

buy one of these too
back-to-the-future-flux-capacitor-replica-1.jpg
 
I don't have my bike all in pieces, I've never paid too much attention to my intake, my manual doesn't show it clearly, and google fails me on a photo search, but isn't that 2X4 placed right in your intake?

That would make a huge difference by choking out the very life it needs to run.
Hi,
can you clarify what you mean by the 2X4? I have not got that in my manual.

Thanks

Nelly
 
Bro, that is too weird when it first fires up it sounds ok, but right after it begins to run like as$, its def down a cylinder or two. Im not sure i can shed anymore light than anyone else, im thinking coil, but again not sure...sorry i couldnt help more!
 
Hi,
can you clarify what you mean by the 2X4? I have not got that in my manual.

Nelly,
"2x4" (spoken "2 by 4") is a common American term for a piece of lumber, nominally 2 inches by 4 inches (actually 1.5 inches by 3.5 inches these days) by varying lengths. It appears that the tank is being held up by a short length of a 2x4, with one end placed directly in the air box intake.
 
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