valve checks

Soupnutz

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Doing valve checks on a new to me bike with 32k miles. PO only had it for about 2k miles and when I asked about it, he didn't even know what valve clearance was. Wondering if the first owner did it/had it done and it was screwed away. These numbers most are at or over the upper limit. Its my understanding that as the valves and says wear it should tighten up. Correct me if I'm wrong. Anyway, heres the numbers.

Intake. Exhaust
C1. .19/.2. .35/.3
C2. .18/.19. .25/.34
C3. .19/.21. .22/.3
C4. .21/.19. .28/.28

Don't have any extras so going to play a game of musical shims and see what happens. Worst case I'll order some and finish it next weekend.
 

FinalImpact

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Those don't look too bad really but ultimately they do seem to go both ways. Some get loose, some get tight. All my exhausts had opened up while the intake was good. Was your engine making any taping sounds? The clearances out of spec may have been right on the edge of audible.

I made an Excel chart so I could calculate the best fit and obtain the "new - AS LEFT" values to quickly pick the gauge needed and verify clearance. Like so:
Valve%20Lash-As%20Left.mm_zps1yugbgpj.jpg


STD:
Valve%20Lash-As%20Left.in_zpsx4umd6t4.jpg
 

Soupnutz

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Yeah, i was hearing a slight tapping. That's a sweet excel doc by the way. I swapped a few shims around. Intake is all in spec, around the upper limit though. All but two of the exhaust are in spec now, have one at .33 and one at .22. Going to let it ride for a few thousand miles then redo it. Then I'll shoot for getting all intake around .17 and exhaust around .27. I don't mind the rework, i get bored every few months and do it anyway just to get a good deep cleaning.

Almost turned out bad, halfway through the checks after swapping shims i noticed the nut and washer had fallen off my feeler guages. Found the washer on the ground and after a few minutes of searching i found the nut in a spark plug hole sitting halfway ready to fall in a cylinder. The plugs weren't in. That brings me to another question. We going to change plugs also and bought the regular ngk c9e. Upon pulling the old ones out i noticed they were split electrode c9ek's, which is what the recommended ones are. Anybody use the regular plugs? Shouldn't make a difference, especially if you index them towards the intake valves.
 

FinalImpact

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No local shops to grab shims from?

Oh - glad you found that! There is a whole thread on recovering shims from the crankcase!

I find the K plugs change gap clearance to quickly compared to standard end fire plugs. Running CR10E or 9 in your case.
 

Soupnutz

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No shops that will be open before Tuesday and i want it ready to roll by then. The r6 and yzf600r (which is based off the r6 also), have .11-.2/.21-.3 specs. Why is the fz6 looser?

As for the plugs, i was worried about piston clearance because it looks like the single strap plug extends slightly further. Did some searching and think it might have been you that said it was good to go.

Quick off topic question for you. Wasn't it you that made the post about the timing advance and adding fuel cia the CO setting? Can you do both of those with the PC5, and can the pcV do everything the fuel controller does?
 

FinalImpact

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R vs FZ6; I'd guess it do to suggested maintenance interval followed by performance. Less clearance offers the benefit of quicker action at the valve (follows cam profile as opening and closing events track lobe ramp rates.).

Plugs depth is fine; notice the precious metal plugs are all conventional end fire plugs.

Does DJ make an ignition model for the FZ6? If they do, it should work. But yes, the fuel controller will solve the rewet issues.
 

Soupnutz

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I don't hear anymore tapping and I'm not concerned about the .22 and .33. It'll be fine for a while.

I was looking at the plugs that came out. Not sure how old they are, but I don't like the way they wear. Both sides of the electrode facing the ground straps were visibly worn affecting the gap. I'm sticking with the single strap.

As far as dynojet. I'd have to call them. Looking at their site they make an ignition module for certain bikes, but one doesn't show up for the FZ6. Reading the specs for the PC5 says it has built in ignition control for certain models, but doesn't specify the models. I'm trying to figure out the difference between the two (pc5 and FC), with the exception of the ignition controller, (If applicable to the FZ6) sounds like they do about the same thing with slightly more adjustability on the PC5. Bike wise, I've only dealt with carbs before. Car wise, on my mustang, I have a hand tuner and can adjust for everything with it whether its spark timing for a given rpm, fuel tables, speedo adjust for different gears/tire sizes. I can even disable certain systems, such as 02 sensors and PCV.
 
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bpchura

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FinalIpact,
That is a really slick excel file you have there. Im about to do my valve clearances here within the month. Mind sharing that file?? :Flash:
 

FinalImpact

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IIRC you can upload Word docs but not Excel. If i upload Excel file, I'll add an extension to .Doc. When you download and save it, Save As .xls and you should be good. It will be later tonight or in the AM.
F/I

PS - you can pick the clearance desired. I went for 0.27mm on the exhaust. Just try to make them all the same.
 

FinalImpact

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FinalIpact,
That is a really slick excel file you have there. Im about to do my valve clearances here within the month. Mind sharing that file?? :Flash:

Here ya go (I hope!)!
As stated, format IS Office 2003-2007.xls
SAVE AS *.xls as the forum won't accept ".xls" , only " *.doc"
View attachment FZ6 - Valve Lash Adjustment(POST).xls.doc

With this file there is no need to use the FSM valve shim chart. Just select the "desired" lash in the appropriate cell(s).
USE AT YOUR OWN RISK! I am NOT responsible for errors, changes, or misuse of this electronic file!
Yamaha Valve Check Worksheet(FinalImpact).jpg
Released: 2015-09-28


TAGS:
Yamaha Valve Lash Worksheet
 
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