Tires yet again

[Gelvatron]

Well my rear tire has no tread left on my pr3 the front is cupping badly with Higher tread in the center so I'm assuming slight over inflation and bad shocks

I believe I got 13k miles on the rear wheel
And 11.5k on the front
Time to replace them..... I contacted Michelin to ask what they suggest for psi try seed refer to manufacturer ok so 33-front 36 rear
I was running the high end of the specs 36 front 40 rear as I'm a bit heavier but I'm going to bring it down to the low end with this set of tires
My real questions are
1. Static or dynamic balance which is required for motorcycles as I'd prefer dynamic but is it actually done?
2. Valve stems I have now pitches the 90 degree billet ones as it would be nice to never replace again and be able to fill up and check psi easier
3 for balancing should I get the balancing beads I have heard they are much better

Any one suggestions or tips would be nice as I want these tires to wear better than my old ones

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

One tire I had dynamically balanced at a shop but I couldn't watch what they did(my regular shop was closed for vacation).

The local shop (Super Bikes and Ski) I get my tires from (they sponsor several race bikes) and sell a gizzillion tires, mostly sport, some cruiser. They ONLY do static balance (including their race bikes), which I've watched them do on ALL my new tires. I've never had an issue with the tires wearing unevenly from out of balance tires.

BTW, my old front Bridgestone from my FJR was cupping very badly towards the end of its life. I was informed, the more ridges you have (ie PR III has more ridges than a PRII), the more cupping you'll get way down the road.

Can't comment on the Dyna beads.

IMHO, I'd stick with the static balance (if done correctly).

 

[Erci]

I've dynamically balanced my last set of tires. My mechanic taught me how to use his machine. It's exactly the same as balancing car tires. Very quick (compared to static) and produced perfect results.

 

[iSteve]

BTW, my old front Bridgestone from my FJR was cupping very badly towards the end of its life. I was informed, the more ridges you have (ie PR III has more ridges than a PRII), the more cupping you'll get way down the road.

I'm not sure if this is true or not. My stock Bridgestone was terribly cupped at 5k miles. I replaced it with a Bt-023, with what appeared to be about the same number of groves but different shape and at 12k there was still almost no scalloping.

Not sure it's the shape of groves or tire compound but I'd be willing to bet the RR3 will last just as long as a PR2 with about equal amount of scalloping.

 

[FIZZER6]

13K out of a rear sport touring tire is pretty impressive and going to be hard to beat!

I have 4,500 on my current Pilot Power 2CT's and looking like 7-8K miles is possible on these. Seems like the front tires always cup some due to the tread groove design. You would think tire designers would address this.

 

[Gelvatron]

Well I appreciate the info, I was just curious as bikes are new to me but what I've learned for tires and wheels on highway vehicles is always dynamically balance

I'm happy with the miles but my rear is wearing more exactly opposite than the weights so i know it wasn't balance right ;( the front it's like the Rocky Mountains but still has so much tread.

Tires seen to be another beast inside them selves ;(

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I'm not sure if this is true or not. My stock Bridgestone was terribly cupped at 5k miles. I replaced it with a Bt-023, with what appeared to be about the same number of groves but different shape and at 12k there was still almost no scalloping.

Not sure it's the shape of groves or tire compound but I'd be willing to bet the RR3 will last just as long as a PR2 with about equal amount of scalloping.

I can say, from my experiance, the bad cupping I had at the end of that front Bridgestone on my FJR, ALL the cupping was at where the tread started (or ended, I don't remember its been years). You could literally back up the back, holding it from the right side, leaning over, and FEEL the tire vibrate, which felt like a knobby tire.

 

[iSteve]

Yep, my original was the same, where it felt like a knobby. At the time I bought the 023 partly because Bridgestone was saying that the new design greatly reduced scalloping. And 12k miles I can say it did. Yes the front did have some cupping but nowhere near as bad as the original. Also got to say the 023 easily could have gone another 1500 miles so maybe then it would have shown the bad cupping, I'll never know.

 

[Cloggy]

Well my rear tire has no tread left on my pr3 the front is cupping badly with Higher tread in the center so I'm assuming slight over inflation and bad shocks

I believe I got 13k miles on the rear wheel
And 11.5k on the front
Time to replace them..... I contacted Michelin to ask what they suggest for psi try seed refer to manufacturer ok so 33-front 36 rear
I was running the high end of the specs 36 front 40 rear as I'm a bit heavier but I'm going to bring it down to the low end with this set of tires
................
Any one suggestions or tips would be nice as I want these tires to wear better than my old ones

.....................
BTW, my old front Bridgestone from my FJR was cupping very badly towards the end of its life. I was informed, the more ridges you have (ie PR III has more ridges than a PRII), the more cupping you'll get way down the road.
...............

Gelvatron I also have a bit of a cupping issue on my PR3 front tyre (have always run correct pressures), I definately didn't have it on the PR2's (my previous tyres) so as Scott says it would figure it would be due to the extra tread lines (ridges). Although I'm not down to the wear marks yet I'm looking to replace the front tyre soon, it's a bummer as I was very impressed with the life of the PR2's but it looks like I have to prematurely change my PR3 front tyre, I think it might end up being a PR2 again (same rubber but less tread pattern).

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I currently have 10,000 miles on my front PRII. It might be half worn, absolutly no cupping. I expect to see close to 20,000 miles on it before it needs replacing.

The rear is a much newer, PRIII due to a key inbedding itself in my old PRII(and they didn't have a PR II in stock-it was a Friday).

IMHO, I believe the Michelins last quite a bit longer than the Bridgestones (stock front tire new with the bike purchased new) however the cupping on my Front Bridgestone was at about 6,000 miles AND was on a much heavier bike (FJR).

I did have a very slow leak on the rear PRIII (turned out to be the valve innerds), however checking that tire (PRIII) VS a PR II was a major PIA as there's SOOO MANY MORE GROOVES to peek inbetween when looking for a small protrusion. Next tire will likely be a PRII on the rear..

 

[Cloggy]

I currently have 10,000 miles on my front PRII. It might be half worn, absolutly no cupping. I expect to see close to 20,000 miles on it before it needs replacing.
...........
I did have a very slow leak on the rear PRIII (turned out to be the valve innerds), however checking that tire (PRIII) VS a PR II was a major PIA as there's SOOO MANY MORE GROOVES to peek inbetween when looking for a small protrusion. Next tire will likely be a PRII on the rear..

I had about 15000 miles on my front PR2 (my previous front tyre), I was well impressed.

Scott the extra grooves can be a PITA I often have to pick out smaller pieces of gravel that get lodged between the grooves .

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I had about 15000 miles on my front PR2 (my previous front tyre), I was well impressed.

Scott the extra grooves can be a PITA I often have to pick out smaller pieces of gravel that get lodged between the grooves .

Normally I wouldn't care, but chasing down a VERY SLOW LEAK, made it considerably harder. The valve wasn't leaking all the time, just occassionally as it was the first thing I checked after I didn't see and major protrusions...

Cheap fix that time!! :thumbup:

 

[Gelvatron]

Motorcycle Tire Wear

i have come to the conclusion i have all right and the tire is just wearing due to excessive use, and will probably switch to m8 once this set of pr3's is gone

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Motorcycle Tire Wear

i have come to the conclusion i have all right and the tire is just wearing due to excessive use, and will probably switch to m8 once this set of pr3's is gone

From your link:

Cupping, which is more accurately described as scalloping (see pictures, but we will use the more common term "cupping" here), is a natural wear pattern on motorcycle tires and it will always follow the tread pattern. It is not a sign that you have bad suspension parts. It merely shows that your tire is indeed gripping the road when you make turns (thank you for that Mr. Tire!). This cupping develops within the side wear bands of a leaned motorcycle. The extreme forces that come in to play when the bike is leaned in a turn are what produce the effect and when the wear becomes sufficient, one will experience vibration and noise when one banks into a turn. Upon examination of the pictures at left of our sample rear Avon, our dusted front VTX Dunlop D256, and the picture of our chalked Dunlop D206 one can see how the cupping follows the tread pattern