Throttle Tamer: Not bad.

boars

Iced coffee fiend
Elite Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2011
Messages
224
Reaction score
3
Points
0
Location
Oo-su-to-rar-ee-ah
Visit site
Thanks for the post, cannot resist a sale price... gah! *another* xmas present for me, at this rate I'm going to get disowned very shortly ;)
 

chomorro

Junior Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2011
Messages
696
Reaction score
4
Points
0
Location
San Diego
Visit site
I received mine already, super fast shipping. I will install it tomorrow, hopefully i wont have to mess with the cable slack just in case i hate it i can just pop the old one back on.
 

DefyInertia

Former '04 FZ6 Rider
Joined
Aug 14, 2007
Messages
3,701
Reaction score
66
Points
0
Location
San Francisco, CA
Visit site
Don't set your idle at 1600 rpms! It's way out of the factory specs.
I'll bet your gear-changes got more clunky. Especially from neutral to 1st.
Set it again to 1250-1350 rpm to avoid any damage.

I think I'm going to ignore this advice....

Mine is set at 1600 and shifting is smoother, if different at all. The engine is never spinning at idle speed when I downshift regardless of what I have the idle set at.

I'm not a mechanic but I would think the only "major" downside would be the bike's tendency to run hotter in stop and go traffic.

Thoughts?
 

ChevyFazer

Redneck MacGyver
Joined
Jun 12, 2011
Messages
3,309
Reaction score
27
Points
0
Location
ATL
Visit site
I think I'm going to ignore this advice....

Mine is set at 1600 and shifting is smoother, if different at all. The engine is never spinning at idle speed when I downshift regardless of what I have the idle set at.

I'm not a mechanic but I would think the only "major" downside would be the bike's tendency to run hotter in stop and go traffic.

Thoughts?

Ya mine is set pretty close to 1600 as well, your idle speed won't affect shifting while riding unless you pull in the clutch and coast for a long time then it's going to be rough trying to shift reguardless
 

chomorro

Junior Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2011
Messages
696
Reaction score
4
Points
0
Location
San Diego
Visit site
:BLAA: Rode for an hour on side streets and freeway with the tamer. I have to say I like it a lot, and im mad i havent been using it since i bought the bike.

Starts are smoother, shifts are smoother, and it didnt seem to slow down at all on the freeway. I like it :thumbup:. Havent tried any twisties yet but it should be a much smoother response.

I had to move my brake reservoir and starter switch in just a few cm because the g2 tamer is slightly longer then my stock throttle tube. This caused my HVMP heavy bar ends to close on it when tightened, and stopped the tamer from moving freely. This is on an FZ1 bar. After adjustment everything went smooth. My first take off was tricky but after a few starts i got used to it and loved it.

I did not adjust anything, i just swapped the tubes and left it as is, including stock idle. My throttle play is the same as it was before.

So this is coming from someone who didnt mind the stock throttle on off behavior. Two thumbs up, great product :rockon:
 

FizzySix

Drunken Philosopher
Joined
May 13, 2008
Messages
449
Reaction score
47
Points
28
Location
Rochester NY
Visit site
I'm not a mechanic but I would think the only "major" downside would be the bike's tendency to run hotter in stop and go traffic.

Thoughts?

I set my idle higher on my second season or so with the bike (1500 maybe?), mostly just to make take-offs easier: rather than concentrating on fishing around the rpm range for the the level needed to avoid stalling and take off with authority, it was already close, and I can focus more on anticipating what the other vehicles will do.

No perceivable impact on temps, mileage, etc...she just sings at a slightly higher note while waiting at intersections.

A 15T sprocket also helped, as well as Killernoodle's clutch slave lever. The new throttle tube should move the experience even closer to what the way it's "supposed" to behave: a nice smooooth takeoff followed by by the screamin' acceleration we all love.

I've almost got it to the the way it should have been off the factory line. ;)
 

DefyInertia

Former '04 FZ6 Rider
Joined
Aug 14, 2007
Messages
3,701
Reaction score
66
Points
0
Location
San Francisco, CA
Visit site
I received mine tonight an installed it. The installation required power tools.

I have the stock handlebar and stock bar end weights and found that the tube was about 1.5 mm too long as the bar end weight was binding on the tube when torqued down. [not sure how they got this wrong] Given the choice of drilling a new hole in my handlebar to fit the little nub on the twist grip casing, grinding down the bar end weight, or grinding down the throttle tube, I went with grinding down the bar end weight slightly. Now everything works perfectly.

I didn't get a chance to ride the bike tonight, but will tomorrow.

I've done the following mods:

- Throttle tamer
- Killernoodle's second Gen clutch slave lever
- 15T up front
- just about zero throttle play
- ~1,600 RPM idle

I've done ZERO mods to the intake and exhaust systems...and no PCIII.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

2007 FZ6
Site Supporter
Joined
Feb 7, 2009
Messages
12,548
Reaction score
1,196
Points
113
Location
Cape Coral, Florida, USA
Visit site
I received mine tonight an installed it. The installation required power tools.

I have the stock handlebar and stock bar end weights and found that the tube was about 1.5 mm too long as the bar end weight was binding on the tube when torqued down. [not sure how they got this wrong] Given the choice of drilling a new hole in my handlebar to fit the little nub on the twist grip casing, grinding down the bar end weight, or grinding down the throttle tube, I went with grinding down the bar end weight slightly. Now everything works perfectly.

I didn't get a chance to ride the bike tonight, but will tomorrow.

I've done the following mods:

- Throttle tamer
- Killernoodle's second Gen clutch slave lever
- 15T up front
- just about zero throttle play
- ~1,600 RPM idle

I've done ZERO mods to the intake and exhaust systems...and no PCIII.

Its kinda BS that YOU have to grind down the end to make it the same as the stock throttle tube.. I agree, that's what I would have done as well..

I'd give them a call or drop a note about the lenth, its really a safety hazard if a newbe installs it and doesn't notice the throttle grabbing the bar end or releasing slowly...

As a side note, I keep my idle at 1,000 (doesn't clunk as bad going into first and I want the engine braking as well). When riding the twisties, I keep the RPM's at least 5K, no clutch mods, stock levers, Scorps, no PC.
I don't have any problems getting rolling nor any snatchyness as it sits... Maybe the 07 and up is better, FI wise, the higher RPM's when riding aggressivly as well...
 
Last edited:

opfpqgoon

Junior Member
Joined
Nov 21, 2011
Messages
22
Reaction score
2
Points
0
Location
Morgantown WV
Visit site
Okay so I have been reading a lot about this throttle tamer recently. All is does is change the geometry of the slope on which the throttle cable rests right? So could an adventurous (and admittedly frugal/cheap/insert your own adjective) soul just take the stock throttle tube and shave away some to match that of the G2??

If so this would be a nice $64 saved.
 

chomorro

Junior Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2011
Messages
696
Reaction score
4
Points
0
Location
San Diego
Visit site
I received mine tonight an installed it. The installation required power tools.

I have the stock handlebar and stock bar end weights and found that the tube was about 1.5 mm too long as the bar end weight was binding on the tube when torqued down. [not sure how they got this wrong] Given the choice of drilling a new hole in my handlebar to fit the little nub on the twist grip casing, grinding down the bar end weight, or grinding down the throttle tube, I went with grinding down the bar end weight slightly. Now everything works perfectly.

I didn't get a chance to ride the bike tonight, but will tomorrow.

I've done the following mods:

- Throttle tamer
- Killernoodle's second Gen clutch slave lever
- 15T up front
- just about zero throttle play
- ~1,600 RPM idle

I've done ZERO mods to the intake and exhaust systems...and no PCIII.

I had the same problem but no nub on my controls so sliding it down a few mm was easy peasy. But if i had just put it on and taken off i might have crashed from the throttle not returning properly. Maybe they should be notified.
 

chomorro

Junior Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2011
Messages
696
Reaction score
4
Points
0
Location
San Diego
Visit site
Okay so I have been reading a lot about this throttle tamer recently. All is does is change the geometry of the slope on which the throttle cable rests right? So could an adventurous (and admittedly frugal/cheap/insert your own adjective) soul just take the stock throttle tube and shave away some to match that of the G2??

If so this would be a nice $64 saved.

I dont think this would work because they also increase the lobe size right after the low lobe to compensate and not make open throttle acceleration any slower. So basically real light throttle is much smoother but getting on it is the same as stock.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

2007 FZ6
Site Supporter
Joined
Feb 7, 2009
Messages
12,548
Reaction score
1,196
Points
113
Location
Cape Coral, Florida, USA
Visit site
Okay so I have been reading a lot about this throttle tamer recently. All is does is change the geometry of the slope on which the throttle cable rests right? So could an adventurous (and admittedly frugal/cheap/insert your own adjective) soul just take the stock throttle tube and shave away some to match that of the G2??

If so this would be a nice $64 saved.


I believe the initial ramp (early throttle) is lessened (closer to the handlebar) and then extends outward increasing the throttle movement in the upper end of the movement.

Unless you can mold pastic, I don't see how you could make your own. I would be very cautious attempting this as any failure could have potentially bad results....

X-mas is coming up, maybe leave an ad and how to order laying about with a note of how you'd reelly like this???? :)
 

mikw73

Junior Member
Elite Member
Joined
May 29, 2011
Messages
508
Reaction score
4
Points
0
Location
Atlanta, GA, US
Visit site
I installed mine this weekend. It definitely does make scooting around town a bit more pleasant. And while it does not change the intensity of the jump at roll-on caused by the fuel cut, it does make timing it a lot easier, which it pretty important. If I could get a FCE for the FZ6, I would probably still get the throttle tamer, but I'd consider it a finishing touch. As is, the throttle tamer is a best effort. Next stop: ECU reflash... This stuff is really adding up. Wouldn't it be cheaper to buy carburetors?
 

mikw73

Junior Member
Elite Member
Joined
May 29, 2011
Messages
508
Reaction score
4
Points
0
Location
Atlanta, GA, US
Visit site
I believe the initial ramp (early throttle) is lessened (closer to the handlebar) and then extends outward increasing the throttle movement in the upper end of the movement.

Unless you can mold pastic, I don't see how you could make your own. I would be very cautious attempting this as any failure could have potentially bad results....

X-mas is coming up, maybe leave an ad and how to order laying about with a note of how you'd reelly like this???? :)

I just bought and installed one, and I don't think modding the stock tube is wise. I don't think it would be hard to shave or cut the stock tube to the shape of the throttle tamer, and it would save you the trouble of having to cut off the end of the throttle tamer's tube, which is too long and had to be cut or else the throttle sticks -- very dangerous if you don't catch it! But if stock tube were modded, and the cam section of the stock plastic tube were weakened by the mod and broke on a ride, the throttle could get stuck open. (Or closed.) Could make for a real mess, and no telling when it might happen. Putting a metal, possibly grooved strip for support of the cable to safely distribute load over the milled or shaved section of the plastic cam could minimize this risk, but then you're running up against cost vs. difficulty vs. safety. This is one for the pros. Not to mention the fact that the inventor and marketers deserve some credit. For the price, I'm quite happy with mine. I did hope it would help more with the fuel cut, but it does make repeated starts and stops in urban traffic situations easier to do smoothly.
 

mikw73

Junior Member
Elite Member
Joined
May 29, 2011
Messages
508
Reaction score
4
Points
0
Location
Atlanta, GA, US
Visit site
...It it does not change the intensity of the jump at roll-on caused by the fuel cut...

I should point out that the town I live in is about 1,000 feet (300 meters, or metres) above sea level. The bike runs richer as a result, making the fuel cut more noticeable.
 

fazil

Junior Member
Joined
Jan 7, 2009
Messages
922
Reaction score
14
Points
18
Location
Istanbul
Visit site
I've already installed rizoma grips long time ago and they had some natural throttle tamer, but i don't remember any changes after installation.

Is this throttle tamer thing function different then these rizoma grip apparatus?

yl7q.jpg
 

mikw73

Junior Member
Elite Member
Joined
May 29, 2011
Messages
508
Reaction score
4
Points
0
Location
Atlanta, GA, US
Visit site
Is this throttle tamer thing function different then these rizoma grip apparatus?

yl7q.jpg

The cam on the end of the throttle tamer looks pretty different. The first 90 degrees or so of twist on the throttle tamer look like it's intended to reduce the amount of cable that gets pulled. Those in your pic all look pretty round, so cable pull would be uniform across the range of twist. A smaller round cam would make the throttle easier to modulate at low speed, but might require annoyingly large extent of twist to get to WOT.
 
Top