Thanks for the post, cannot resist a sale price... gah! *another* xmas present for me, at this rate I'm going to get disowned very shortly
Don't set your idle at 1600 rpms! It's way out of the factory specs.
I'll bet your gear-changes got more clunky. Especially from neutral to 1st.
Set it again to 1250-1350 rpm to avoid any damage.
I think I'm going to ignore this advice....
Mine is set at 1600 and shifting is smoother, if different at all. The engine is never spinning at idle speed when I downshift regardless of what I have the idle set at.
I'm not a mechanic but I would think the only "major" downside would be the bike's tendency to run hotter in stop and go traffic.
Thoughts?
I'm not a mechanic but I would think the only "major" downside would be the bike's tendency to run hotter in stop and go traffic.
Thoughts?
I received mine tonight an installed it. The installation required power tools.
I have the stock handlebar and stock bar end weights and found that the tube was about 1.5 mm too long as the bar end weight was binding on the tube when torqued down. [not sure how they got this wrong] Given the choice of drilling a new hole in my handlebar to fit the little nub on the twist grip casing, grinding down the bar end weight, or grinding down the throttle tube, I went with grinding down the bar end weight slightly. Now everything works perfectly.
I didn't get a chance to ride the bike tonight, but will tomorrow.
I've done the following mods:
- Throttle tamer
- Killernoodle's second Gen clutch slave lever
- 15T up front
- just about zero throttle play
- ~1,600 RPM idle
I've done ZERO mods to the intake and exhaust systems...and no PCIII.
I received mine tonight an installed it. The installation required power tools.
I have the stock handlebar and stock bar end weights and found that the tube was about 1.5 mm too long as the bar end weight was binding on the tube when torqued down. [not sure how they got this wrong] Given the choice of drilling a new hole in my handlebar to fit the little nub on the twist grip casing, grinding down the bar end weight, or grinding down the throttle tube, I went with grinding down the bar end weight slightly. Now everything works perfectly.
I didn't get a chance to ride the bike tonight, but will tomorrow.
I've done the following mods:
- Throttle tamer
- Killernoodle's second Gen clutch slave lever
- 15T up front
- just about zero throttle play
- ~1,600 RPM idle
I've done ZERO mods to the intake and exhaust systems...and no PCIII.
Okay so I have been reading a lot about this throttle tamer recently. All is does is change the geometry of the slope on which the throttle cable rests right? So could an adventurous (and admittedly frugal/cheap/insert your own adjective) soul just take the stock throttle tube and shave away some to match that of the G2??
If so this would be a nice $64 saved.
Okay so I have been reading a lot about this throttle tamer recently. All is does is change the geometry of the slope on which the throttle cable rests right? So could an adventurous (and admittedly frugal/cheap/insert your own adjective) soul just take the stock throttle tube and shave away some to match that of the G2??
If so this would be a nice $64 saved.
I believe the initial ramp (early throttle) is lessened (closer to the handlebar) and then extends outward increasing the throttle movement in the upper end of the movement.
Unless you can mold pastic, I don't see how you could make your own. I would be very cautious attempting this as any failure could have potentially bad results....
X-mas is coming up, maybe leave an ad and how to order laying about with a note of how you'd reelly like this????
...It it does not change the intensity of the jump at roll-on caused by the fuel cut...
Is this throttle tamer thing function different then these rizoma grip apparatus?