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Tapping noise

besier said:
Did you recently put new fuel in the bike, there may have been excess water in the fuel from the last time you filled up, or just bad fuel. I first used regular gasoline in my bike, and found that it ran rough and made some ticking noises, but with premium fuel it runs great, a noticable difference. The manual mentions this issue also and suggests running higher octane.
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Yes mate I did refuel, I used regular 95 ron though. I will try using premum from now on. I will let you know how I get on. Cheers
 
cam chain tensioners on these bikes are self adjusting but not hydraulic. my bike makes the same noise. i am going to investigate further take it apart and re-install it. i know the Honda cbr F4i had noisy cam chain/tensioners and it wasn't a mechanical issue just an annoyance, a lot of guys replaced the stock adjusters with manual ones just to get rid of the noise. It may just be how these bikes are. If so i will live with it.

i will post my findings when i get a chance to take it apart.

craig:rockon:
 
craig_215 said:
cam chain tensioners on these bikes are self adjusting but not hydraulic. my bike makes the same noise. i am going to investigate further take it apart and re-install it. i know the Honda cbr F4i had noisy cam chain/tensioners and it wasn't a mechanical issue just an annoyance, a lot of guys replaced the stock adjusters with manual ones just to get rid of the noise. It may just be how these bikes are. If so i will live with it.

i will post my findings when i get a chance to take it apart.

craig:rockon:
Click to expand...

Huh???

Resurrection of a 3 yr. old thread, by a new member with zero posts, who doesn't (apparently) own an FZ6, with nothing new to add to the conversation? I have an odd feeling about this.

craig_215 said:
...It may just be how these bikes are...
Click to expand...

Really? Thanks for all of your insight.
And, welcome to the forum!
 
A few months ago I went thru the same thing. Worried about noise etc. I had about 10K miles on it and finally just bought a new tensioner. The old tensioner was not not smooth in operation (turn the screw till it is all the way contracted and then slowly release the tension - smooth motion or rough motion). The unit just bolts in and was easy to replace. If there are requests for pics I can take some and post tomorrow.

Before I replaced the tensioner I was getting a lot of noise on a high RPM deceleration in first, the new tensioner made the noise go away.
 
The FJR's are known to have the same problem. Yamaha came up with another updated (different part # as well) version, supposedly with a slightly stronger spring...

The above post as well as the new post are correct, its a racheted spring mechanism, oil pressure has nothing to do with it.. The rattling will generally happen at or around idle, and more so from the right side of the engine, where the cam chain is...

If ignored, it will allow the chain to jump the sprockets and greneade the engine... Several FJR's have experianced this..
 
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I've been hearing a weird ticking noise as well, however I'm not nearly as mechanically inclined as most members on this forum. Should I have this tensioner part replaced ASAP? All I know is that it sounds off... dont know exactly what it could be because of my limited knowledge.
 
Its 5 years old, I don't know the mileage.

I personally would bring it to a trusted dealer and have them listen to it.. As stated earlier, the rattle will be on the right side of the engine. I believe the new tensioner is about $80.00. The FJR one is up graded(stronger spring, different part #). I don't know if they upgraded the FZ6..

Its cheap enough insurance if in doubt... Maybe a half hour to install as its adjacent to outside lower frame arm....
 
Yeh I have been hearing the noise also, I thought it was an exhaust leak and I changed the exhaust gaskets but the noise continues. I guess the tensioner may be the issue. I have almost 14,000 miles, its an '07.
 
I did this a while back and it made me feel better and the bike makes less noise. I purchased a new tensioner, two gaskets, a cap screw (probably wrong name) and a cap screw washer. The washer and cap screw are supposed to be replaced if they are removed so I bought an extra one. The tensioner is fastened to the block with two bolts and is easily removed. With the tensioner removed and the cap bolt off the tensioner can be retracted by inserting a screwdriver (small flat bladed) into the end of the tensioner and turning clockwise. With some effort I could hold the tensioner retracted with my hand. When slowly allowing the tensioner to extend while holding it the new tensioner extended smoothly while the old one was rough. I think the parts were $80 to $100.
 
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Well I ended up getting the Yamaha part,put it in and took it for a ride and it's very quiet now so if you get a tapping/ticking noise that sounds like an exhaust leak or the valves are out of adjustment, the culprit is probably the chain tensioner.

And after a nice 15 minute ride the clutch cable started fraying, I made it home with 5 strands of the clutch cable. I literally watched the cable break while I was riding home, so the bike is out of commission...again..lol
 
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