Stuborn bolts. Anyone wanna lend a little wisdom?

[Andyman]

So I went against all my trusted advise and decided to change tires myself (first time, new rider).

I couldn't get past step 1! All I'm trying to do is pull the calipers off.







The metal bolts (alluminum I presume) is crazy soft. I can feel it bending and rounding almost instantly.

So far I've tried:
PB blaster (careful not to get any near the calipers or discs)
Heat gun
Socket
Wrench
Vise Grips
Grip tite (those sockets that are made for this sorta thing) http://www.thehardwareconnection.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Grip-Tite.jpg Btw these suck! It failed the first time I used it.
Metal File
Dremel

I even thought that maybe these wouldn't be righty-tighty lefty-loosey and made one even more snug. Help!

 

[Zealot]

I've found a lot of metric (mm) type bolt heads on this bike in my deconstruction process. Make sure you've got the right tools for the job, in that case.

If you're able to cut a slit in the head of the bolt (dremel or a small saw that works on metal), you might be able to use a slot screw driver. Is there a nut on the opposite side of the bolts holding them in place?

 

[FinalImpact]

Best bet is to only use 6 point sockets and box end wrenches. A hammer to a wrench is very direct force and can be highly effective (boxed end on bolt heard).

1) keep everything square and true. So don't use an extension unless you have too.
2) Now that it is rounded, take some scissors and cut out a circle shape from an aluminum pop can large enough to go over the head of the bolt. Using a six point socket, place the circle over the bolt head and use a hammer to force the socket on to the head to full depth. If its too tight, remove the circle and cut some tiny slits in it at the edges and try again.

Someone may have used Loctite which has stuck them on there. Heating the head won't do much as you need to heat the threads on the caliper side. Order some new bolts and good luck. It is a conventional right hand thread.

Bolts....
2008 FZ6 - FZS6XB Yamaha Motorcycle FRONT BRAKE CALIPER Diagram and Parts

PN: 90105-10638-00, BOLT, FLANGE (PS - bolt is some form of SS, not aluminum).

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

+1 ^^^^.

What I would try BEFORE putting another wrench on it is a six point socket (as mentioned above, MUST BE hammered tightly on the bolt), then use the below hand held impact tool. It is VERY EFFECTIVE for such instances. You get the turning torque of the tool WITH the pressure/impact of the tool with a hammer. This procedure would most likely work for you..

Here's the tool, a must have in ANY tool box IMO;
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-impa...chanics & auto tools?sid=ISx20140327xNonBrand


Last/worst case scenario;

If that does not work, find someone with a MIG welder and plug weld a nut atop the stripped stock bolt. Between the heat and the fresh new head, it'll easily come off.

Those bolts, properly torqued are 29 ft lbs, add in your corrosion and its higher than that. IMO, cutting a slot a trying a screwdriver is simply removing what material you have to work with..

Please post back..

 

[greg]

ALL the bolts are metric sized, use a good set of sockets, also once you get them off use an anti-seize compound (copper grease)

calliper bolts are usually quite strong

 

[MattR302]

I ended up rounding one of mine off pretty good too. I was able to hammer a slightly smaller socket, either inch or metric 6 or 12 point, whatever gives it a real right fit. If its already rounded try this.

I picked up some plated high strength bolts in that size from my local hardware store (Ace or True Value, not HD). Since they're high strength it means the head material is harder to strip next time. And I'll use a little blue loctite when reassembling.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I just had mine off for a new front tire install last week. Now I've had mine off several times for cleaning, rebuilds, etc.

The manual doesn't call for loctite, anti seize or even grease. I have previously (and the other day), just put a very THIN coat of Yamaha Marine waterproof grease over the ENTIRE bolts(anywhere corrosion/water intrusion may get).

Properly torqued down, and with the this layer of grease, they came off very easily and were still up to torque.

Now that grease (or anti seize) will change the torque values some however, mine easily clamped down to 29, no issues...

 

[Jb40k]

...cut out a circle shape from an aluminum pop can large enough to go over the head of the bolt... and use a hammer to force the socket on to the head to full depth.

I wish I knew about this trick earlier, having just dismantled a caliper to remove a rounded bleed nipple!

 

[FinalImpact]

I wish I knew about this trick earlier, having just dismantled a caliper to remove a rounded bleed nipple!

Better than a broken nipple! Hate it when that happens! Blah

 

[Andyman]

Thanks everyone for the responses! All my buddies kept saying, "I guess you're just going to have to take it to the shop and pay them $150 to change your tires after all".

Nope! I think I found a regular tire shop to do it on the cheap once the wheels come off. In for an impact driver and some marine waterproof grease. All these problems are helping out my tool collection!

I'll post back once I get some time to work on it. (probabaly not until this weekend, work is nuts)

Thanks!

 

[Nelly]

+1 ^^^^.

What I would try BEFORE putting another wrench on it is a six point socket (as mentioned above, MUST BE hammered tightly on the bolt), then use the below hand held impact tool. It is VERY EFFECTIVE for such instances. You get the turning torque of the tool WITH the pressure/impact of the tool with a hammer. This procedure would most likely work for you..

Here's the tool, a must have in ANY tool box IMO;
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-impa...chanics & auto tools?sid=ISx20140327xNonBrand


Last/worst case scenario;

If that does not work, find someone with a MIG welder and plug weld a nut atop the stripped stock bolt. Between the heat and the fresh new head, it'll easily come off.

Those bolts, properly torqued are 29 ft lbs, add in your corrosion and its higher than that. IMO, cutting a slot a trying a screwdriver is simply removing what material you have to work with..

Please post back..

Impact drive is an essential piece of kit.

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Any updates OP???

 

[patrickb37]

For stubborn or seized bolts, a shot of PB Blaster beforehand is always good too.