Sticky throttle which goes away

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Should you decide to put one wind back in the spring, drill a very small in the thin end of a plastic zip tie wrap.

Form it tightly around your finger so it stays almost circular.

You'll want to then feed it in around the Yamaha return spring (in the direction to tighten the spring) and put your newly drilled hole, OVER the end of the hooked spring..

Pull the plastic tie (and the end of the spring) one full rotation and work it back onto the spring tab, remove the tie wrap.

IMHO, I wouldn't be lubing my cables once or twice a week, I'd rather be riding...

 

[nudgedoink]

Should you decide to put one wind back in the spring, drill a very small in the thin end of a plastic zip tie wrap.

Form it tightly around your finger so it stays almost circular.

You'll want to then feed it in around the Yamaha return spring (in the direction to tighten the spring) and put your newly drilled hole, OVER the end of the hooked spring..

Pull the plastic tie (and the end of the spring) one full rotation and work it back onto the spring tab, remove the tie wrap.

IMHO, I wouldn't be lubing my cables once or twice a week, I'd rather be riding...

yea me too. but i guess my cables really need this for the time being. since i lubed them, after a couple of days the throttle sticks again in the morning.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

yea me too. but i guess my cables really need this for the time being. since i lubed them, after a couple of days the throttle sticks again in the morning.

If you can disconnect the cables from each end and make sure their not frayed at the ends or inside would be a good thing... If they slide nice and easy, turn the TB shaft by hand and see if its stiff.

If that's ok, check the grip assembly/ the bar, any crap inbetween the throttle tube and handle bar will cause resistance.

Make sure there's NO KINKS in both the pull, push throttle cables too...

If all that's clean, working fine, I suspect there's just not enough pull in the return spring as it is....

 

[FinalImpact]

You'll have to lift the tank and undo (inside left frame rail) each of the cables from the bracket at the throttle body.
For ease of adjustment i caution you to only loosen the jamb nut on the shielded cable side. DO NOT MOVE both jamb/adjusters nuts on a single cable as it will take some time to get its positioned back in the right place. Mind you it MAY NOT BE IN THE RIGHT PLACE and this could be part of the problem.

======[]==[]==--------------0

== {equal to the cable housing.
[] {equal to the set of jamb nuts on a single cable. There are two.
--------0 {equal to the cable and cable end.

Only move one NUT so the cable can be returned to its original position easily.

What I want you to notice with the tank up is which cable PULLS open the throttle and disconnect the return cable (the other cable) and make sure the free cable end does not contact or bind against anything. Test the throttle closure. It should be smooth and it should close all the way from any open position not just from WOT.

I highly recommend you get some 5wt synthetic oil in the cable. With them removed from the throttle shaft make sure the throttle plates SNAP back from any position to fully closed.

In short, Cables can only PULL and if they have no slack (both cables at the throttle shaft) it will bind. Play with the adjustment in the frame rail and maybe even the one at the throttle grip so the cable that opens the throttle has some slack and works freely. Then install and adjust the return cable.

Let us know if you have any questions.

 

[pantone]

I bike had run 70,000km. I got the same problem two months ago and had tried many times at removal/dismantal, lubrication of parts which may be related. I found the root casue is the butterfly valve in the throlttle body that sticks with the oil/contaminant in the throttle after long miles of the bike. I remove the air box assembly to get access to this valve. I use WD-40 to clean the butterfly valve and use rag to clean the valve/surrounding and the problem is solved. It is good if you can use a rag wrapped around the head of a screwdriver, then insert the screwdriver into the throttle to get better clean effect.

Hope there are still some members who use this bike.

 

[Motogiro]

I bike had run 70,000km. I got the same problem two months ago and had tried many times at removal/dismantal, lubrication of parts which may be related. I found the root casue is the butterfly valve in the throlttle body that sticks with the oil/contaminant in the throttle after long miles of the bike. I remove the air box assembly to get access to this valve. I use WD-40 to clean the butterfly valve and use rag to clean the valve/surrounding and the problem is solved. It is good if you can use a rag wrapped around the head of a screwdriver, then insert the screwdriver into the throttle to get better clean effect.

Hope there are still some members who use this bike.

WD40 is a great product to use initially but it will get gummy as time goes on. Use a different lubricant to follow up with. I use WD40 Specialist as a follow up lube there are many different lubes on the market but Standard WD40 although is a great product for intended applications, will get gummy later.

 

[pantone]

WD40 is a great product to use initially but it will get gummy as time goes on. Use a different lubricant to follow up with. I use WD40 Specialist as a follow up lube there are many different lubes on the market but Standard WD40 although is a great product for intended applications, will get gummy later.

Thanks Motogiro for your advise.

You are correct, my throttle valve sticks more serious today. The grip is completely unmovable and it takes five seconds for the valve to return to its close position. I removed the wire and pressed the spring adjacent to the throttle body to test.

Regarding the WD-40 specialist, I found in the market there are many types, including silicon, sticker remover, dry lube etc. Do you recommend certain type?

BR

 

[Motogiro]

Thanks Motogiro for your advise.

You are correct, my throttle valve sticks more serious today. The grip is completely unmovable and it takes five seconds for the valve to return to its close position. I removed the wire and pressed the spring adjacent to the throttle body to test.

Regarding the WD-40 specialist, I found in the market there are many types, including silicon, sticker remover, dry lube etc. Do you recommend certain type?

BR

The WD-40 Specialist is really great and I believe is a silicone based produce That is great in many different applications.
Be sure that your hand throttle is also lubricated. It may also have some dirt and corrosion between it and the handle bar.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

If Liquid Wrench is available, that'd work fine too.

As Cliff mentioned clean / lube the throttle tube/handlebar.
Lube the cables too.

Brake cleaner should remove all crap in/on the TB's. I would then use a little LW at the body shafts as well..


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