Sticky throttle which goes away

[nudgedoink]

I'm experiencing the sticky throttle issue every morning. The throttle would get stuck at a certain rpm and I would have to twist it shut. What's wierd is that the "sticking" goes away after about 5 min of riding.

also, if i were to hold the same throttle position on the freeway for a few minutes, the throttle would also stick slightly.

my mechanics are unable to locate the source of the problem since the problem generally goes away by the time i ride over to the workshop.

anyone able to help?

(by the way: i had just gone for my throttle body sync, valve clearance, injector cleaning etc so it shouldn't be the throttle bodies)

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Check to make sure the inner lip of the hand grip isn't rubbing against the starter switch (RH) handler bar switch housing.

You may also have some dirt/crap inbetween the handlebar and the throttle tube( that the bar grip goes over). That's a little more involved a requires removing the phillips head screws for that housing and separating it. It helps to loosen both throttle cables and at the very least, slide the throttle outside to the right and check for crud. if you can manage to get the cables off altogether (preferred), pull the throttle tube off completely clean the inside of that and the handlebar. You'll have to remove the handlebar weight to pull the throttle tube..

Also, just make sure the cable ends are NOT FRAYED where the small end cylinder is.

Why your there, if you have a cable luber, lube both throttle cables(one pulls, one pushes closed the throttle shaft at FI thotle body assembly).

There's a pretty good amount of pull from the TB assembly spring so finding any sticking shouldn't be too hard to find.

The problem is likely in the throttle tube / or grip rubbing.

Good luck and please post your results..

 

[motojoe122]

I had a similar problem with the dirt bike I had...

The plastic throttle tube had crack in it, when I applied grip glue and installed the grips some glue traveled through the crack and onto the bar itself causing it to stick.

Not so much fun when your jumping 90ft. doubles:spank:

 

[ebster1085]

I would check a few things:

1. May need to lube the throttle cables. A member on our forum (Chemiker) provides a very nice kit for this

2. Check to make sure the grip is not binding on either a bar end mirror (if you use them) or on the throttle assembly.

3. Make sure your throttle cables are adjusted properly. There is a lock nut and adjustment nut on the lower part of the throttle assembly.

 

[nudgedoink]

Check to make sure the inner lip of the hand grip isn't rubbing against the starter switch (RH) handler bar switch housing.

You may also have some dirt/crap inbetween the handlebar and the throttle tube( that the bar grip goes over). That's a little more involved a requires removing the phillips head screws for that housing and separating it. It helps to loosen both throttle cables and at the very least, slide the throttle outside to the right and check for crud. if you can manage to get the cables off altogether (preferred), pull the throttle tube off completely clean the inside of that and the handlebar. You'll have to remove the handlebar weight to pull the throttle tube..

Also, just make sure the cable ends are NOT FRAYED where the small end cylinder is.

Why your there, if you have a cable luber, lube both throttle cables(one pulls, one pushes closed the throttle shaft at FI thotle body assembly).

There's a pretty good amount of pull from the TB assembly spring so finding any sticking shouldn't be too hard to find.

The problem is likely in the throttle tube / or grip rubbing.

Good luck and please post your results..

there is no grip rubbing.. i have more than ample allowance for the grips and the bar end. i would imagine it is due to dirt since the problem goes away after a bit of riding. if it were anything mechanical, i won't suppose the problem would just vanish?

i've taking apart the assembly and lubed all that i can lube. i do not dare to remove the cables as i'm not too mechanically inclined.

thanks for your input. it could be after sending the bike for my major servicing (valve clearance, throttle bodies, etc) the mech got some grime inbetween. i'm hoping that that is the issue and some silicon lube would loosen any dirt.

I had a similar problem with the dirt bike I had...

The plastic throttle tube had crack in it, when I applied grip glue and installed the grips some glue traveled through the crack and onto the bar itself causing it to stick.

Not so much fun when your jumping 90ft. doubles:spank:

I doubt i have cracks in mine. though i am not able to check the throttle tube itself. i have rizoma grips installed and have no idea how to remove them to get to the bare throttle tube. i'm somewhat of a nubcake when it comes to technical, electrical and mechanical issues.

i'll have to wait for a couple of days to pass to determine if lube is indeed the solution. thanks!

 

[FinalImpact]

I would check a few things:

3. Make sure your throttle cables are adjusted properly. There is a lock nut and adjustment nut on the lower part of the throttle assembly.

Does the cable SET have free play?

If the answer is no, the throttle will bind. From the sounds of it, some old lube is dried up and possibly as the engine warms it free's up melting the hardend lube.

I'd opt for drowning the cables in 5wt synthetic motor oil.

Anyway - because it's a double pull system (pull to open, pull to close) if there is no free play it will bind. For kicks and grins, give it some slack and see what happens. How old is the bike and is it stored outside or ever pressure washed? Have you ever lubed the throttle cables?

 

[nudgedoink]

yes it definitely has freeplay.. i made sure all the cables are lubed up and now i have to wait and see.

the only thing that i did before was getting my mech to adjust the throttle return spring so that the throttle wont be as difficult to twist. that is probably not the problem though since the throttle is only sticky for 5mins and works fine after.

i hope it is the case that some on the previous lube left some muck which dried up. could be that my mech used some other kind of lube on it, since i only use silicon lube which shouldnt leave any residue.

the bike is an 07.

 

[FinalImpact]

You might just look real close at what he did to lighten the twist force at the grip. Unwinding a spring one turn on the throttle body is a common practice but I'd think it'd bind on regular basis if this was the cause. The only exception being "high" idle could be smoother than warm idle and warm idle wiggles it free from the vibes. IDK! It's likely the lube.

As for checking for smooth cable operation I'd think you'd have to disconnect BOTH cable ends and this would allow full range of travel so you could feel any stiction in the cable.

 

[nudgedoink]

You might just look real close at what he did to lighten the twist force at the grip. Unwinding a spring one turn on the throttle body is a common practice but I'd think it'd bind on regular basis if this was the cause. The only exception being "high" idle could be smoother than warm idle and warm idle wiggles it free from the vibes. IDK! It's likely the lube.

As for checking for smooth cable operation I'd think you'd have to disconnect BOTH cable ends and this would allow full range of travel so you could feel any stiction in the cable.

sorry i suck at mechanical stuff. u mean to check for binding? which part to disconnect?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Knowing NOW that the mechanic did an un-wind on the spring, is the throttle easy to turn, like before?

Its possible there's not enough spring tension to bring it back and that everything is fine...

I did a center spring un-wind (one rotation ) on my old FJR (there are several springs unlike the FZ's ONE. With that one rotation, the FJR did the exact same thing yours is doing however my cables were adjusted, lubed and in perfect working condition. It would close, but was slow. I eventually pulled the spring back and put it back to original (re-winding it one turn). It closed fully and quickly as before putting the spring back.

Bottom line, if the throttle pull/push is super light, the spring needs another wind.

 

[FinalImpact]

Knowing NOW that the mechanic did an un-wind on the spring, is the throttle easy to turn, like before?

Its possible there's not enough spring tension to bring it back and that everything is fine...

I did a center spring un-wind (one rotation ) on my old FJR (there are several springs unlike the FZ's ONE. With that one rotation, the FJR did the exact same thing yours is doing however my cables were adjusted, lubed and in perfect working condition. It would close, but was slow. I eventually pulled the spring back and put it back to original (re-winding it one turn). It closed fully and quickly as before putting the spring back.

Bottom line, if the throttle pull/push is super light, the spring needs another wind.

Up a few posts back was this. . .

the only thing that i did before was getting my mech to adjust the throttle return spring so that the throttle wont be as difficult to twist. that is probably not the problem though since the throttle is only sticky for 5mins and works fine after.

So everything must be perfect for this work or the spring needs put back where it was. Well, we don't know exactly what he did!

 

[Curguy]

I had the same problem. But mine was dirtu throttle bodies.
i don't know how to describe it but...where those cirkelthings open en close under your airbox to let air in your motor.
if they are dirty, they stick.

 

[nudgedoink]

I am pretty sure it is not caused by the throttle spring adjustment. the throttle snaps back fine when it does not stick. the sticking occurs only in the morning when the bike has had time to sit for a few hours. after 5 min of riding, the throttle operates fine. the only part which i feel could be due to the spring is that it returns abit slowly when i open the throttle only slightly. (e.g. cruising at 80km/h at 6th gear - super little throttle). even so, the lag is pretty much consistent.

the sticking in the morning however is crazy. it feels like the bike is on cruise control. even manually twisting back the throttle requires abit of force.

 

[nudgedoink]

I had the same problem. But mine was dirtu throttle bodies.
i don't know how to describe it but...where those cirkelthings open en close under your airbox to let air in your motor.
if they are dirty, they stick.

yea i know what u are refering to. the last time i checked, everything seemed fine. on top of that, i just went for my throttle body sync not too long back.

 

[nudgedoink]

anyone knows how i can check for kinks in the cable?

or if it indeed is the throttle bodies that are dirty, how do i check this and how do i go about cleaning them?

 

[FinalImpact]

anyone knows how i can check for kinks in the cable?

or if it indeed is the throttle bodies that are dirty, how do i check this and how do i go about cleaning them?

T/Bs = remove the two allen cap bolts securing the tank. Lift the tank and prop it. This can be done with as much as 1/2 full tank and not cause fuel leaks.

With a Phillips screw driver, remove the air filter box cover. The throttle bodies will be exposed.

In this pic the air filter has been removed.

TB's should look clean like these. . . (a different angle, no need to remove lower air box section)

be careful when lowering the tank so you don't kink any of the hoses. if you look close at these hoses the previous owner managed to kink the hoses. I posted a thread in the How too section; Finalimpact, Don't Kink the Hoses.

Have you lubed the cables yet? To feel the cable you need to take stuff apart. If you're game to do that I'll feed you. However I might suggest having another 4 uhm member come and help you. Any Takers???

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Uhm..................


There could be some crud where the middle adjustment spring is.

The outer spring could also have some crud built up, not visable, on the outer spring...

You can get some brake cleaner and for S&G's, spray up the outer spring, while moving the throttle (put a cloth underneath to catch what comes out) and see if that helps...

If the crud is very light and the spring being lighter and the crud cold, could be just enough to cause the sticky throttle when cold...

Try some brake cleaner on the outer spring and see if that helps. Actually, its pretty tight but if you look up above the starter, you' ll probably see and have some access to the throttle bodies. Again, put a paper towel down and do some spraying with brake cleaner and see how much crap comes out.. Pay attention to sand, road grime, etc..

You should be able to see the lower ends of the throttle pull/push cables on the left side of the bike just behind the frame. Make sure there's no fraying there.. The return cable should have just a little slack, you should be able to push it in just a little with a screwdriver. If its guitar string tight, it needs addressing..

If full access to the TB's are needed, FI and I should be able to get you thru it.. You will need slome basic tools...

I do have the Gen I and Gen II manuals as a PDF file should you want to do some research, PM me with a regular address and I'll get it to you..

Anyone, with any time around a MC has seen screw ups from dealers/mechanics. Your mechanic may have gotten two un-winds on the spring, may have tried to do you a favor and tightened up the cables (and now may be too tight).

The spring can be put back without too big a hassle if need be, there's a secret to it that works very well (used it on my FJR middle spring which is 200x's tighter to work in than the FZ)...

IMHO, DO NOT USE CARB CLEANER, its a lot more abrasive and may damage paint, brake cleaner should be ok but use sparingly

 

[nudgedoink]

T/Bs = remove the two allen cap bolts securing the tank. Lift the tank and prop it. This can be done with as much as 1/2 full tank and not cause fuel leaks.

With a Phillips screw driver, remove the air filter box cover. The throttle bodies will be exposed.

In this pic the air filter has been removed.

TB's should look clean like these. . . (a different angle, no need to remove lower air box section)

be careful when lowering the tank so you don't kink any of the hoses. if you look close at these hoses the previous owner managed to kink the hoses. I posted a thread in the How too section; Finalimpact, Don't Kink the Hoses.

Have you lubed the cables yet? To feel the cable you need to take stuff apart. If you're game to do that I'll feed you. However I might suggest having another 4 uhm member come and help you. Any Takers???

thanks for the pictures! if the bodies are dirty though, what would be a safe way to clean them?

Uhm..................


There could be some crud where the middle adjustment spring is.

The outer spring could also have some crud built up, not visable, on the outer spring...

You can get some brake cleaner and for S&G's, spray up the outer spring, while moving the throttle (put a cloth underneath to catch what comes out) and see if that helps...

If the crud is very light and the spring being lighter and the crud cold, could be just enough to cause the sticky throttle when cold...

Try some brake cleaner on the outer spring and see if that helps. Actually, its pretty tight but if you look up above the starter, you' ll probably see and have some access to the throttle bodies. Again, put a paper towel down and do some spraying with brake cleaner and see how much crap comes out.. Pay attention to sand, road grime, etc..

You should be able to see the lower ends of the throttle pull/push cables on the left side of the bike just behind the frame. Make sure there's no fraying there.. The return cable should have just a little slack, you should be able to push it in just a little with a screwdriver. If its guitar string tight, it needs addressing..

If full access to the TB's are needed, FI and I should be able to get you thru it.. You will need slome basic tools...

I do have the Gen I and Gen II manuals as a PDF file should you want to do some research, PM me with a regular address and I'll get it to you..

Anyone, with any time around a MC has seen screw ups from dealers/mechanics. Your mechanic may have gotten two un-winds on the spring, may have tried to do you a favor and tightened up the cables (and now may be too tight).

The spring can be put back without too big a hassle if need be, there's a secret to it that works very well (used it on my FJR middle spring which is 200x's tighter to work in than the FZ)...

IMHO, DO NOT USE CARB CLEANER, its a lot more abrasive and may damage paint, brake cleaner should be ok but use sparingly

I'm not too sure which springs u are referring to. i thought the fz only had one throttle return spring?

I've lubed the cables and yesterday the bike seemed fine. I'll probably monitor it for a week first though to be sure.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

thanks for the pictures! if the bodies are dirty though, what would be a safe way to clean them?


I'm not too sure which springs u are referring to. i thought the fz only had one throttle return spring?

I've lubed the cables and yesterday the bike seemed fine. I'll probably monitor it for a week first though to be sure.

If you look inbetween the two throttle bodies closely (second picture down posted by Randy, post #16), you'll see part of another winding spring, there's an adjuster screw (DO NOT ADJUST), etc. That spring helps keep both TB shafts moving together. Crap on that spring isn't going to help, if enough, it'll help bind the spring. The main return spring is on the outside, left side of the TB's and doesn't do anything else BUT close the TB's shaft.

I hope, and you may want to check, that your mechanic, while under the tank DID NOT UNWIND THE MIDDLE SPRING and just un-wound the outer spring. Confirm if it released one or two full turns...

 

[nudgedoink]

If you look inbetween the two throttle bodies closely (second picture down posted by Randy, post #16), you'll see part of another winding spring, there's an adjuster screw (DO NOT ADJUST), etc. That spring helps keep both TB shafts moving together. Crap on that spring isn't going to help, if enough, it'll help bind the spring. The main return spring is on the outside, left side of the TB's and doesn't do anything else BUT close the TB's shaft.

I hope, and you may want to check, that your mechanic, while under the tank DID NOT UNWIND THE MIDDLE SPRING and just un-wound the outer spring. Confirm if it released one or two full turns...

wow this was really helpful. thanks alot. I'll find some time and get around to spraying some silcone lube on the middle spring. my mech did not touch the middle spring, i watched him as he worked.

just an update. lubing the cables helped alot. the throttle did not stick like it did before in the morning. however, it sticks slighty when im cruising along at minimal throttle. but thats probably to do more with the springs than dirty cables. i'll have to consistently lube the cables perhaps once or twice a week for now until the throttle NEVER sticks in the morning.